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Old 03-16-2016, 08:27 PM   #15
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Did you get a Check Engine Light?
No check engine light..I replaced the fuel filter,cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air cleaner,ran 3 tanks with sea foam and it still looses power when the engine warms up and it sounds like a popcorn machine underload until it shifts into a lower gear and then it goes like hell. Then on a flat road running 60mph I can feel a slight jerk in the engine..My next try will be the spark plugs and wires and if that is no good I will try the crankshaft sensor.BTW it is a 2007 with only 26k miles on a workhorse 26000 gvwr. Any more ideas? Thanks
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Old 03-16-2016, 09:27 PM   #16
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Spark plugs and wires may be the answer. Get back to us after changing those.
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:20 PM   #17
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No check engine light..I replaced the fuel filter,cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air cleaner,ran 3 tanks with sea foam and it still looses power when the engine warms up and it sounds like a popcorn machine underload until it shifts into a lower gear and then it goes like hell. Then on a flat road running 60mph I can feel a slight jerk in the engine..My next try will be the spark plugs and wires and if that is no good I will try the crankshaft sensor.BTW it is a 2007 with only 26k miles on a workhorse 26000 gvwr. Any more ideas? Thanks

Definitely plugs/wires!
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Old 03-20-2016, 08:37 PM   #18
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O2 sensor

Everyone that has posted thus far has offered some excellent possibilities. That's what troubleshooting is all about. Try to eliminate as much as possible. Let me offer one more possibility. The O2 sensors are made of dissimilar metals that are crimp welded together. Heat and humidity will tend to rust the components and add some vibrations the welds will slowly crack. The exhaust pressure will push the components apart until the exhaust pipes are hot and expanded and the gap closes. You will get a sound that is similar to a popcorn machine. The welds will eventually give way and blow the sensor out of the bung that it is crimp welded to. Before it finally gives way it will send codes to the ECU that in some situations will result in limp mode. With the engine cold remove the engine cover start the engine and check ALL the O2 sensors. Good luck...
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Old 03-20-2016, 09:20 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by xflyer View Post
Everyone that has posted thus far has offered some excellent possibilities. That's what troubleshooting is all about. Try to eliminate as much as possible. Let me offer one more possibility. The O2 sensors are made of dissimilar metals that are crimp welded together. Heat and humidity will tend to rust the components and add some vibrations the welds will slowly crack. The exhaust pressure will push the components apart until the exhaust pipes are hot and expanded and the gap closes. You will get a sound that is similar to a popcorn machine. The welds will eventually give way and blow the sensor out of the bung that it is crimp welded to. Before it finally gives way it will send codes to the ECU that in some situations will result in limp mode. With the engine cold remove the engine cover start the engine and check ALL the O2 sensors. Good luck...
Or crawl underneath as two are located in the exhaust pipe before the catalytic converter.
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:25 AM   #20
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Or crawl underneath as two are located in the exhaust pipe before the catalytic converter.
Or get one of these For $10 and an OBD2 app on your tablet or phone and check the O2 sensors in real time.

Mini ELM327 Wi Fi OBD2 OBDII WiFi for iPhone Car Diagnostic Interface Scanner O | eBay
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Old 03-26-2016, 04:15 PM   #21
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Are the Taylor spark plug wires for a 8.1L on a workhorse chassis the same ones for a chevy 8.1L pickup?
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Old 03-26-2016, 11:38 PM   #22
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Reduced engine power

You could be on to something with suspecting the spark plug wires. Have you seen these posts from a few years back? same problem - and spark plug wiring was the culprit.

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/ind...?topic=35604.0
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:41 AM   #23
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Well I finally changed out the plugs and wires,went with Taylor plug wires, and drove 40miles and back up a 6% grade for 1+ miles and no power loss or engine backfiring..Hope this solves the problem..Thanks for all your help..
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Old 01-11-2020, 10:29 PM   #24
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I know this thread is old but I have a recent similar problem but with a different link. I have had several reduced engine power situations where I had to coast to the shoulder, wait one minute, restart the engine and carry on. However, I realized that I was always on cruise control towing my car when the loss of power occurred. The last one was one week ago, while heading south on the I 5 near Everitt, WA. It was the 29th. Dec. and no shops were open. I decided to carry on without using my cruise control. I made it to Mesa, AZ five days later without any further engine shut down. I had replaced the MAF, engine air filter and TAC module on the steering column over the summer. This latest shut down resulted in a complete loss of power plus engine light. The engine light disappeared on its own the next day on the road. I used my car scanner and the error code is P2101: definition = Throttle actuator control motor-range/performance problem. I have a 2007 Workhorse W24, 6 spd. allison tranny, with 90,000 miles. I would appreciate any suggestions on what I could do to address this issue.
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