Community Forums

TOM356C · 01-02-2019, 09:05 AM

Hello,

Looking for information on installing a residential fridge in a slideout for a National Pacifica. I am concerned about height and loosing the heat ducts under the Norcold I have now. Help?

Tom National Pacifica TE40B

Fred and Bonnie · 01-02-2019, 10:58 AM

Tom, check out apartment size units, I found lots of units that will fit into RV spaces.

Fred

TOM356C · 01-02-2019, 01:02 PM

Hi, I have done that. I am concerned about rerouting furnace ducts are redoing the wood surround. Tom

tmw188 · 01-02-2019, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOM356C

Hi, I have done that. I am concerned about rerouting furnace ducts are redoing the wood surround. Tom

Tom you will have to do some re work but to keep it easy and to a minimum it will have to probably be an apartment style as Rick stated. If you go to some of the big box stores websites I think they have search criteria you can put in to bring up options. There are some recent threads on here about those. When looking don’t forget the depth of the new fridge.

speed racer · 01-03-2019, 06:55 AM

What fridg do you have now and what size space do you have to work with.

biking · 01-06-2019, 04:57 PM

U need to do a little homework. I just finished putting a res refer in my GF's fifth wheel. She is happy, always a good thing.
I assume the refer u have now has a manf and model number. U can get the dimensions from the owners manual or on the web. Buy accordingly.
From your hose comment I assume the refer sits on a shelf above them. Should be out of the way.
Goodluck

Paul R. Haller · 01-06-2019, 05:40 PM

I installed a Samsung 18 cf residential refer in a slide out of my 38 ft 5er. Fortunately it fit in the front door, but my old RV fridge was 24 inches wide and the Samsung was 33 inches wide requiring me to do some cabinet work and remove a sleeping sofa. I also had to install water into the slide out and secure the new fridge and figure out exactly how without interfering with the slide out operation.
Before you do anything. Measure everything 3 times and figure out how you will secure the new fridge as well as how to keep the doors closed while on the road, add water for ice and dispenser, and 110 inverter power to the fridge while on the road. If you don’t have a table saw, a driver drill and experience working with your hands in all disciplines this may well be beyond your capability.

Thankfully as an ex home builder I not only had tools but the know how to overcome all obstacles. I also own a wire feed welder and metal working tools so I could fabricate custom made steel mounts. Securing a top heavy fridge in a slide out is hard and there are limited ways to secure the fridge. I ended up really beefing up the undercarriage of the fridge and drilling through the floor and securing the fridge both front and rear as well as on top. Remember also no holes through the fridge box anywhere to prevent hitting a cooling tube behind the outer skin. I have built houses and restored many 60s muscle cars and still found the securing the fridge the hardest part without drilling into the fridge body. I used existing door hinge bolts, the front leveling feet already in place so no holes and use of VHB double sided tape to secure door and freezer closers, as well as custom brackets. I’m not trying to dissuade you but you need to be aware of all the what’s needed to add a residential fridge beyond the obvious cabinet work. Paul R. Haller

tmw188 · 01-06-2019, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul R. Haller

I installed a Samsung 18 cf residential refer in a slide out of my 38 ft 5er. Fortunately it fit in the front door, but my old RV fridge was 24 inches wide and the Samsung was 33 inches wide requiring me to do some cabinet work and remove a sleeping sofa. I also had to install water into the slide out and secure the new fridge and figure out exactly how without interfering with the slide out operation.

Before you do anything. Measure everything 3 times and figure out how you will secure the new fridge as well as how to keep the doors closed while on the road, add water for ice and dispenser, and 110 inverter power to the fridge while on the road. If you don’t have a table saw, a driver drill and experience working with your hands in all disciplines this may well be beyond your capability.

Thankfully as an ex home builder I not only had tools but the know how to overcome all obstacles. I also own a wire feed welder and metal working tools so I could fabricate custom made steel mounts. Securing a top heavy fridge in a slide out is hard and there are limited ways to secure the fridge. I ended up really beefing up the undercarriage of the fridge and drilling through the floor and securing the fridge both front and rear as well as on top. Remember also no holes through the fridge box anywhere to prevent hitting a cooling tube behind the outer skin. I have built houses and restored many 60s muscle cars and still found the securing the fridge the hardest part without drilling into the fridge body. I used existing door hinge bolts, the front leveling feet already in place so no holes and use of VHB double sided tape to secure door and freezer closers, as well as custom brackets. I’m not trying to dissuade you but you need to be aware of all the what’s needed to add a residential fridge beyond the obvious cabinet work. Paul R. Haller

Yep.

speed racer · 01-24-2019, 06:37 AM

I used a Whirlpool 10.7/11 qf refrigerator with ice maker. It is less than 62inches tall/24inches wide and 21inches deep without doors. The doors are 4inches deep because you can put 1gal jugs in the door shelves. I had removed a 1200 Norcold so I had room to build a 7&1/2inch pantry along side of the fridge.

TOM356C · 01-24-2019, 08:00 AM

Thanks for the input. My big issue is all of the electrical/plumbing/heat ducts are in the slide under the refridgerator. That is why I inquired specifically about the National Pacifica. I have looked at a dozen units & cannot decide what to go with.

grindstone01 · 01-24-2019, 08:15 AM

Our fifth wheel refrigerator basically sat on a shelf with all the ductwork and elec positioned under the shelf. If you are getting the same size refrig, just leave the shelf in place along with the ductwork and elec. We replaced our 8.1 Norcold with a 10.3 Haire in the same space.

tmw188 · 01-24-2019, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TOM356C

Thanks for the input. My big issue is all of the electrical/plumbing/heat ducts are in the slide under the refridgerator. That is why I inquired specifically about the National Pacifica. I have looked at a dozen units & cannot decide what to go with.

Are you replacing a 1200 model?
Those issues should only come into play if you’re wanting to increase the size. If you work within the original opening and platform it shouldn’t be a problem. You could do what speedracer did or look into the Expensive FF model that seems to fit the opening.

Plasticman · 02-01-2019, 08:51 AM

I have a Tradewinds model, but did have to relocate one heating duct to allow room for our 17 cu ft Whirlpool fridge. I'm still working on closing out the opening (added storage due to narrower residential fridge). Once it's done I'll post all the pictures.

Rob