Community Forums

99trdewinds · 06-12-2025, 09:02 AM

Hello friends! Has anyone removed their propane fridge and installed a residential one in their Tradewinds? I have a 7371 1999 Tradewinds and I want information on what fridge model fits inside our opening, if you can please shed some light, I (maybe WE) would appreciate it greatly.
Thx!

Skip426 · 06-12-2025, 10:49 AM

Can you post make and model info of your existing fridge .

Different size fridges may have been factory options .

99trdewinds · 06-14-2025, 11:38 AM

Hello Skip, it’s a Dometic RM 7732

Skip426 · 06-14-2025, 11:46 AM

Thanks for posting the model info ; I've installed a half dozen ( or more ) residential fridges in RVs . I'll see if the opening required for your Dometic matches any of the size info I have .

Is your fridge in a slide ?

99trdewinds · 06-14-2025, 08:53 PM

No, the slide is on the opposite side.
Thx Skip o7

Skip426 · 06-16-2025, 08:43 AM

OK ; I'm back with the installation manual for an RM 7752.

I've only done one side by side fridge replacement , and ended up doing quite a bit of cabinet work , that fridge was in a slide and the replacement couldn't be any higher .
WE found a fridge that fit; height and depth but had to modify for the width .
I'll take a look for a residential model that fits your opening .

mofa · 06-17-2025, 04:13 PM

We have a 2001 tradewinds ltc with the domitic two do sise by side refrigerator. Having rebuilt it 3 TIMES, we went with the Amish 12 volt compressor replacement 4 years ago. We are full timers. Let me say it's the best decision we have made icecream rock hard, very cold drinks, food lasts so much longer. Same she'll of a fridge, different guts.

You can go to their warehouse and have it installed OR they will ship it to you for self install. They also have a 110 model as well. RC Refrigeration in Indiana.

FWIW.

Stuart

99trdewinds · 06-17-2025, 10:40 PM

Interesting Mofa, did you go to their warehouse and have it installed or did you have it shipped? I wonder how difficult of task that is?
I’ll be searching YT for it!
Thx Mofa, it’s an option.

69 roadrunne · 06-18-2025, 02:10 PM

Thought about it, but the furnace is below my fridge on my 7371, so kept my fridge

MikeandRuth · 06-18-2025, 02:47 PM

We have a Dometic 1292 in our coach. It died in 2000 and I purchased an Amish compressor driven unit to repair it. I did it myself, with great telephone support from them. They send you everything you need to install the replacement unit on your fridge. I bought a 110 volt unit, because in most coaches the gauge of wire in the fridge circuit is too small for the increased load. Whenever we travel in warm weather we run the generator to support the roof AC units anyway, so the fridge is powered also.
I removed the propane feed to the fridge area. I also reinsulated the side walls of the hole with one inch foam sheets.
The only modification I had to make was to move the fridge forward 11/2 inches to accommodate the increased space necessary for the compressor.
My interior is maple so I fabricated a solid maple frame for the fridge hole and solved the problem.
I have never been a fan of switching to a household fridge. Your fridge box is well built and works just fine. All it needs is an upgrade to a compressor driven cooling unit and you are good to go..

I have a bunch of pictures if you want them.

99trdewinds · 06-19-2025, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeandRuth

We have a Dometic 1292 in our coach. It died in 2000 and I purchased an Amish compressor driven unit to repair it. I did it myself, with great telephone support from them. They send you everything you need to install the replacement unit on your fridge. I bought a 110 volt unit, because in most coaches the gauge of wire in the fridge circuit is too small for the increased load. Whenever we travel in warm weather we run the generator to support the roof AC units anyway, so the fridge is powered also.
I removed the propane feed to the fridge area. I also reinsulated the side walls of the hole with one inch foam sheets.
The only modification I had to make was to move the fridge forward 11/2 inches to accommodate the increased space necessary for the compressor.
My interior is maple so I fabricated a solid maple frame for the fridge hole and solved the problem.
I have never been a fan of switching to a household fridge. Your fridge box is well built and works just fine. All it needs is an upgrade to a compressor driven cooling unit and you are good to go..

I have a bunch of pictures if you want them.

Yes, please. You can send them to baseballdad281@gmail.com and/or post them here. Thx.

**hamm2018** · 06-19-2025, 07:58 AM

"Post the pics here, in case somebody needs the help and information for this situation." Thanks

MikeandRuth · 06-20-2025, 03:25 PM

Before I get started I would like to correct a typo in my first post.. My fridge died in 2020, not 2000!!!!

The first thing you need to do is go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their hardwood framed furniture dollies. Fabricate a 2x4 frame that raises the height to match the height the bottom of your fridge is above the floor.
It is much easier to slide the fridge out and in without having to lift it!

Take the doors off the box before you pull it out. It reduces the weight and gets them out of the way. I also removed my table and chairs to give me more work space. I had the fridge on the floor for 3 days so it was nice to be able to get around it. I put a pair of 2x4's on the floor with towels on them to support the box face down when working on the back.

The first challenge I had was getting the dead cooling unit to release from the box. It was really stuck and I was afraid of breaking the box! There was no hard surface anywhere to support a pry bar. I found a You Tube video of a couple of guys who had the same problem. They used a 6"x6" piece of 1/4" steel as a base with a similar piece vertically between the coils resting on the base that enabled them to tie a loop of line to the top loop of a coil and use a pry bar to break it loose. It did the job with no damage to the insulation on the back of the box.
I also removed all of the foil tape, washed and re taped the entire back of the fridge.
If you have an ice maker, replace the feed tube while you are looking at it! It makes a mess when it fails! I did mine in copper. The tubing fits the existing fittings perfectly.
I also upgraded my RV Cooling Warehouse interior fans to his 3 fan set. The power lead now gets to the rear power source thru the hole used by the temp sensor. Much cleaner on the inside. I foil taped those leads to the back of the box.
The new cooling unit is pretty straight forward. Their instructions are well done and they send everything you need. I made plenty of reference marks, foamed the hole, set it in place and then used blocks and a ratchet strap to set it. The back cover gets foil taped to the box. I had some minor alignment problems with screwing the new components to the existing holes in the box, nothing ice pick wiggling didn't resolve.
As I mentioned in my first post, I had to move the fridge out 11/2" to create enough clearance for the compressor. Initially I did it with 4 pieces of 2x2. When I got back to Mesa, where I had access to the wood shop, I fabricated a solid maple frame.
If the above, or the pictures generate any questions, let me know!