Community Forums

Old-Biscuit · 05-04-2016, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knightab

The only issue is apparently these handles are as they always have been I assume and he has had hot water before and it suddenly started.

Then that would narrow it down to the HOT out check valve (which I think OP redid), the cold inlet (which could be clogged) and the water flow thru valve

bud01234 · 05-05-2016, 09:14 AM

FOLLOWUP-

First, I want to thank everybody who's helping out on solving this frustrating issue of no hot water. As of this moment, i'm pretty much where I started- Hot water for about 10 seconds, then cold. Here's a summary of what I've done to this point.

The original setup worked fine for the first 2 months, but recently I noticed a wet carpet by the hotwater tank. I put a shallow pan under the bypass which was dripping from a tiny crack in the brass and continued using it until I could get it replaced. When the new bypass valve arrived, I had a friend help me and replace it. During the operation, we took out the piping (old style) that ran from the bypass valve to the cold water input on bottom of tank and replaced it with a high pressure flexible metal pipe.

When we tried it out, that's when the problem started. The heater heated for about 30 minutes then flame shut down indicating hot water, then we discovered it would only deliver hot water for about 10 seconds. We checked the tank and it was full of hot water. (Checked temp of cold intake fitting and hot output fitting and also drained the hot water tank and it was
full of steaming hot water.

It was suggested that the problem might be the hot water output check valve might be bad. I purchased a new check valve and (making sure that the flow arrow was pointing away from the tank), installed the check valve and refilled the tank and turned on the heat. After it indicated HOT by shutting off the flame, I turned on the hot water. rats! same result.

Bottom line, I have a tank full of hot water, but it won't come out. I'm ready to replumb the whole thing with all new pipes and fittings but not sure what exactly it's supposed to look like. I've uploaded the current setup photo below, (currently the bypass is set to winter, but tried both ways), so would like to know what you guys think. I'm really tired of trudging up to the clubhouse at 5am for a shower- ~whimper.

btw, (somebody suggested maybe they sold me the wrong bypass valve- divert vs shutoff? does that mean anything??)

Thanks,
Bud

Knightab · 05-05-2016, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bud01234

FOLLOWUP-

First, I want to thank everybody who's helping out on solving this frustrating issue of no hot water. As of this moment, i'm pretty much where I started- Hot water for about 10 seconds, then cold. Here's a summary of what I've done to this point.

The original setup worked fine for the first 2 months, but recently I noticed a wet carpet by the hotwater tank. I put a shallow pan under the bypass which was dripping from a tiny crack in the brass and continued using it until I could get it replaced. When the new bypass valve arrived, I had a friend help me and replace it. During the operation, we took out the piping (old style) that ran from the bypass valve to the cold water input on bottom of tank and replaced it with a high pressure flexible metal pipe.

When we tried it out, that's when the problem started. The heater heated for about 30 minutes then flame shut down indicating hot water, then we discovered it would only deliver hot water for about 10 seconds. We checked the tank and it was full of hot water. (Checked temp of cold intake fitting and hot output fitting and also drained the hot water tank and it was
full of steaming hot water.

It was suggested that the problem might be the hot water output check valve might be bad. I purchased a new check valve and (making sure that the flow arrow was pointing away from the tank), installed the check valve and refilled the tank and turned on the heat. After it indicated HOT by shutting off the flame, I turned on the hot water. rats! same result.

Bottom line, I have a tank full of hot water, but it won't come out. I'm ready to replumb the whole thing with all new pipes and fittings but not sure what exactly it's supposed to look like. I've uploaded the current setup photo below, (currently the bypass is set to winter, but tried both ways), so would like to know what you guys think. I'm really tired of trudging up to the clubhouse at 5am for a shower- ~whimper.

btw, (somebody suggested maybe they sold me the wrong bypass valve- divert vs shutoff? does that mean anything??)

Thanks,
Bud

Was this plumbing just changed? It looks like your cold feed is going to both sides of the tank

Knightab · 05-05-2016, 09:24 AM

------------hot------------|---<<--X----------to top connection of tank
|
|
Valve--->X Tie 2 lines together and when in use close this valve
|
|
|
->------cold-----------------------X------to bottom connection of tank

So you will have your cold coming in the bottom, it can go no where but into the tank because your crossover valve (x) is closed. Water comes out the top hot into your lines and also can not go anywhere but to faucets because the crossover valve is closed
So the line in valve should be open the line out valve at top should be open and the crossover between the 2 lines should be closed

bud01234 · 05-05-2016, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Knightab

------------hot------------|---<<--X----------to top connection of tank
|
|
Valve--->X Tie 2 lines together and when in use close this valve
|
|
|
->------cold-----------------------X------to bottom connection of tank

So you will have your cold coming in the bottom, it can go no where but into the tank because your crossover valve (x) is closed. Water comes out the top hot into your lines and also can not go anywhere but to faucets because the crossover valve is closed
So the line in valve should be open the line out valve at top should be open and the crossover between the 2 lines should be closed

I think that is the present configuration- the bypass valve in center is OFF so only the top hot line output and bottom cold input lines are open.

So that means no hotwater coming out at top? I replaced the checkvalve with a straight nipple just to see if the check valve was not working, but didn't make any difference, so put the check valve back on.

thanks,
Bud

chboone · 05-05-2016, 10:43 AM

Three way valve installed wrong? With the valve out look at the direction of flow through the valve. I believe the way the valve is installed the flow is going up and bypassing the heater. What you are experiencing is exactly what happens when the heater is bypassed.

Reread you post that the valve is in the winter (bypass) position in the picture. Need to verify the flow with valve in normal use position.

chboone · 05-05-2016, 11:25 AM

Bypass the bypass valve. Connect cold water inlet direct to the cold inlet, you will get hot water. You have done everything else. The valve has to be the problem.

onecb · 05-05-2016, 11:40 AM

chboone has the correct answer the new vale is inline backward so that it is bypassing in both positions. Put it in reversed position and it will solve the problem. Alvin

Knightab · 05-05-2016, 12:23 PM

These answers are all correct, the valve is the problem. Think about it, if no hot water will come out of the hot water faucet but cold does then obviously there is a connection to the cold line and it lies in that valve. Cut that tie between the cold and hot, literally cut it and cap both sides. Your problem will be fixed. Or try turning the valve UP 90 degrees from where it is. If the valve is installed correct it will direct the water the right way it looks

Knightab · 05-05-2016, 12:27 PM

If you are living in the rv fulltime and don't need to winterize, take your cold line and plum it direct to the bottom of the tank. This could be fixed in 5 minutes, literally

bud01234 · 05-05-2016, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onecb

chboone has the correct answer the new vale is inline backward so that it is bypassing in both positions. Put it in reversed position and it will solve the problem. Alvin

You guys are getting me excited now!
Can I just flip the thing upside down and rotate it? I can't believe my "plumber" put that in upside down but it sure makes sense.

Can't wait to get home and try that.
We're on a quest! Thanks for hanging with me guys!!

Bud

Knightab · 05-05-2016, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bud01234

You guys are getting me excited now!
Can I just flip the thing upside down and rotate it? I can't believe my "plumber" put that in upside down but it sure makes sense.

Can't wait to get home and try that.
We're on a quest! Thanks for hanging with me guys!!

Bud

Just Flip the handle on the valve and see what happens, I don't know if that will do it or if you need to actually remove valve and install opposite. Guaranteed that valve is the problem. Your plumber didnt understand how rv plumbing works apparently. Simply turn on the hot water and let it you, reach down and grab the top hot line and switch the valve, if the line doesn't get hot it needs to come out.

Knightab · 05-05-2016, 01:23 PM

Honestly you should just replumb the tank, the way it is will not work for by passing to winterize. You need a valve on both the input and output to close, then open the bypass. As is if you winterize you will fill the tank with antifreeze.

Old-Biscuit · 05-05-2016, 07:45 PM

The diverter valve should have 2 ports (Like an 'L'------not 3 ports like a 'T')

When in bypass mode
Cold water inlet to valve should go in one port and then go out thru port on top of valve connecting with Hot line......check valve in Hot out stops water from going into WH Tank (Tank is BYPASSED ---cold water will still flow out of hot side of any faucet)

Normal Mode----Valve handle turned 1/4 turn
Cold water inlet to valve should go in one port and then go out thru port on bottom of valve connecting with Cold inlet to WH Tank..thru tank and out top Hot outlet to hotside of any faucet

Pull the valve and check how it ports.......and which way handle turns to change porting so it passes water correctly