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Old 08-03-2020, 11:42 PM   #1
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Water Pump issue 2000 Tropi-Cal

2000 National Tropi-Cal 1 slide F53 V10

Everything worked like it should UNTIL I decided to add an illuminated Rocker Switch(3 connectors) to the Water Distribution Panel in the basement.
I ran a constant hot wire from the Generator starter solenoid and attached it to the power leg on the new switch, the Accy leg to the red wire on the pump and the ground to the black wire on the pump. It worked Yay. .. Until I went inside and realized I lost the entire monitor LEDS for tanks, LP, battery and the two water pump switches inside (one on the monitor panel and one in the bathroom.) The water pump only works with the new switch I installed and only if the 2 wire connector to the pump is plugged in(the 2 wire harness that snakes into the RV). (im guessing because that provides chassis ground).
The 2 wire circuit that operates the water pump used to work flawlessly. Now it reads 7 volts at the connector to the pump. The monitor panel has a pump LED that lights up dimly. The monitor pump switch leads read 10 volts but goes to 0 volts when I turn on either inside pump switch (or the hot water tank heater switch which is located on the monitor panel next to the pump switch)
I have exposed the wiring and plug-in connector on the monitor panel and the bathroom switch(pump light fan). But right now that is the extent of dismantling done. Except of course pulling the Water Distribution Panel off to get to the pump.

I have ruled out fuses unless there is are fuses besides the BCC up front.
I read on here about a pump control module that SHOULD be close to the pump but I can't see one. supposedly, this pump control module ties the 2 inside switches together.

My gut tells me sending 12v back up the line poofed something but I don't know what.
I would appreciate any thoughts.
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Old 08-04-2020, 06:27 AM   #2
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You have a Intellitec controller for the water pump behind the water service panel. Required for multiple switches.


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Old 08-05-2020, 07:14 AM   #3
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I'm betting most people do not even knows about the controller
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Old 08-05-2020, 09:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard S. View Post
You have a Intellitec controller for the water pump behind the water service panel. Required for multiple switches.



Dave Anderson <dwander501@gmail.com>
9:07 AM (5 minutes ago)
to iRV2

The unit you mentioned is for momentary press switches to latch the current and run the pump. The 2000 National I have uses Rocker Switches, either on or off. so unfortunately there is no Intellitech device behind the water distribution panel.
I was at an RV dealer yesterday and talked with their, 14-years-in-the-business, technician for about 30 minutes. It was a head scratcher. He pointed me at the 12v house fuse panel. So that is today's target. I DON'T look forward to splitting wiring harnesses open but I'll do whatever it takes to get it sorted out.
Thank you for the reply though.
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Old 08-06-2020, 09:13 AM   #5
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Partial resolution

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWAnderer View Post
2000 National Tropi-Cal 1 slide F53 V10

Everything worked like it should UNTIL I decided to add an illuminated Rocker Switch(3 connectors) to the Water Distribution Panel in the basement.
I ran a constant hot wire from the Generator starter solenoid and attached it to the power leg on the new switch, the Accy leg to the red wire on the pump and the ground to the black wire on the pump. It worked Yay. .. Until I went inside and realized I lost the entire monitor LEDS for tanks, LP, battery and the two water pump switches inside (one on the monitor panel and one in the bathroom.) The water pump only works with the new switch I installed and only if the 2 wire connector to the pump is plugged in(the 2 wire harness that snakes into the RV). (im guessing because that provides chassis ground).
The 2 wire circuit that operates the water pump used to work flawlessly. Now it reads 7 volts at the connector to the pump. The monitor panel has a pump LED that lights up dimly. The monitor pump switch leads read 10 volts but goes to 0 volts when I turn on either inside pump switch (or the hot water tank heater switch which is located on the monitor panel next to the pump switch)
I have exposed the wiring and plug-in connector on the monitor panel and the bathroom switch(pump light fan). But right now that is the extent of dismantling done. Except of course pulling the Water Distribution Panel off to get to the pump.

I have ruled out fuses unless there is are fuses besides the BCC up front.
I read on here about a pump control module that SHOULD be close to the pump but I can't see one. supposedly, this pump control module ties the 2 inside switches together.

My gut tells me sending 12v back up the line poofed something but I don't know what.
I would appreciate any thoughts.
So I was poking around and checked voltage on the fuses and SOMEHOW during all the wire moving the monitor panel and the hot water heater switch came back. The switch I installed in the basement has to be ON for it to work and the 2 switches inside have to be in the 'right' position.
I am going to say things are GOOD for right now, take a break, have a cold beer and focus on something else for a few days.
Thanks to all the eyes that scanned this.
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