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Old 04-30-2014, 05:55 AM   #15
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It would also make a difference as to what size battery you were trying to jump it from as some of them are pretty weak,even with the engine. I had an Excursion 7.3 PSD and had to have it jumped a couple of times and it had to be done by a tow truck. I did buy one of those 75amp jumpers and that would do the job. I'm gonna try using that to jump the gennie.
My question is.... Should I just hook it up to the wires with them still connected to the house batteries, OORRR, should I disconnect those wires at the gennie????
Are you having the same issue that I am? Did I miss an earlier post of yours? Please indicate your situation with the wiring and genset. I did disconnect the house batts when I jumped it from the car.

John
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:18 AM   #16
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John and Bigdog.....Two important GROUNDS need to be clean and effective to crank the Genset. 1) House Battery Bank neg to chassis ground, both ends. 2) Genset block ground to coach chassis, both ends. Other connections must be clean but these two are the most important. You can waste a lot of time poking at other things but until you know these are good, all other efforts will likely fail. Rook
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:46 AM   #17
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Somethings happening on this thing,I've replied twice and it seems to disappear in thin air. Sooo,here we go again.
I do not like to work around batteries. Period... I have had two blow up on me. One was when I was in HS,late 50's, and working in a service station.Richfield..Remember them? and I had just refilled it with battery acid and put it in the car,cables correct and when he started it... BANG. glad the hood was down and the second,mid 70's, one was a friend that was jumping a battery and it blew,also cables correct, and there was debris and acid all over the place. Glad I was standing behind the car.
So,ok now.Dumb question. Do you need to disconnect the hot lead when disconnecting the ground for cleaning? Where is the battery end of the gennie cable. I know where the front end is underneath the gennie and how do I get to the one in the gennie compartment?
Durn I wish that I had a gennie slide like the build sheet says I have.
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Old 04-30-2014, 11:50 AM   #18
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".Dumb question. Do you need to disconnect the hot lead when disconnecting the ground for cleaning?"

The answer to that is , NO. However you should turn your 12 vdc off from supplying power to the coach by hitting the battery disconnect switch.

"Where is the battery end of the gennie cable. I know where the front end is underneath the gennie and how do I get to the one in the gennie compartment?"

The answer to that will have to come from someone who has the same make, model and year coach that you have. Rook
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:06 PM   #19
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Update

I had someone test this thing out and he found the starter was bad. I ordered a new one and after it gets here on Friday and we put it in, I will let you know what happens. It should start easily now.

John
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:20 PM   #20
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My starter died, 990 hours on the gennie, and so I had it replaced and the new one burned up the first time I started it after leaving the shop. Took the rig back and we found that the bendix had stuck and burned the starter up. They sent it back to Generac and received a replacement and that one lasted several months before it seized up. The shop bought an aftermarket one and it's been working for a couple of years now. That is,when it feels like it.
I had the wife watch the battery array while I turned it over the other day and when I pushed the heater button,she said that the voltage dropped almost a full volt and then when I pushed the starter button,it really dropped and the starter hardly turned and I had to shut it down.
I really think that the gennie should have it's own battery close to it and not have to draw it's starting power from 30' away.These systems get old over the years and slow down. Just like some of us. Damn,but I gotta quit driving the school bus one of these days.
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:38 AM   #21
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My starter died, 990 hours on the gennie, and so I had it replaced and the new one burned up the first time I started it after leaving the shop. Took the rig back and we found that the bendix had stuck and burned the starter up. They sent it back to Generac and received a replacement and that one lasted several months before it seized up. The shop bought an aftermarket one and it's been working for a couple of years now. That is,when it feels like it.
I had the wife watch the battery array while I turned it over the other day and when I pushed the heater button,she said that the voltage dropped almost a full volt and then when I pushed the starter button,it really dropped and the starter hardly turned and I had to shut it down.
I really think that the gennie should have it's own battery close to it and not have to draw it's starting power from 30' away.These systems get old over the years and slow down. Just like some of us. Damn,but I gotta quit driving the school bus one of these days.
I agree but there must be thousands of rigs with this exact setup and as far as I know, their gensets start ok. The long wiring run just makes it more challenging. I had enough volts to the genset but it would not start. The starter bendix was stuck out and probably was the cause of the starter failing. I hope the new starter works better than yours did. Will find out this weekend.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:38 PM   #22
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Update

Put in the new starter and had same problem. We are testing the old and new starter to see if they are both bad or what. Got us scratching our heads.
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:07 PM   #23
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Go back and re-read my post #16..... Rook
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Old 05-17-2014, 05:11 PM   #24
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Go back and re-read my post #16..... Rook
We put the heavy duty jumper cables from a truck battery directly on the starter and the frame of the engine the starter is bolted to. Still the same response. I don't see how ground could be an issue by directly connecting this way. Am I missing something?
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Old 05-24-2014, 04:01 PM   #25
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I just had to have my starter replaced again the other day. (see my last post) It was doing the same thing and then the red light stayed on and ran up about 2 hours on the hour meter,until I was able to get under and pull the hot lead. Took it back into the shop where I had the work done before and they said that the one they put in was an aftermarket one with a lifetime warranty and they would talk to the parts house about the labor as it was just inside the labor warranty. They pulled it and found that the bendix had gotten hot and wouldn't retract. They also found that it was a rebuilt starter and was an OEM one.They bench tested the new one and it was ok. Then when they put it in it froze again after being tested several times. Bummer.... They put the gennie back in and are talking with the supplier of the starter and the folks at Generac or whoever owns them now. They did check the wiring from the batteries and they did show ok. There was a drop,but not enuff to burn that starter.
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:38 PM   #26
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Any update on this? My generac eats starters as well which makes me believe that the starter is not up to the task of turning the motor over more than a few times.
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Old 07-28-2014, 10:01 PM   #27
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Any update on this? My generac eats starters as well which makes me believe that the starter is not up to the task of turning the motor over more than a few times.
Pulling the unit out and will put in new solenoid tomorrow. Will see if that fixes it.
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:54 AM   #28
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You could have starter problems.
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