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08-25-2021, 08:21 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 15
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2010 Phaeton won't start
I have a 2010 Tiffin Phaeton w 360 Cummins. It wouldn't start, tried to turn over, but wouldn't. I have charged the batteries (I have not at this point checked to see if they are good, my next step), and tried to start, it would try to turn over but not quite; I tried the AUX start to pull more power, a little better, but again, almost turn over but not quite. After several tries it will not even try to engage or act like it is getting power to starter.
I am getting power to the dash, alarms, etc. with switch on; It sound like a little click somewhere when trying to start.
I'm wondering where or if there is a solenoid, breaker or something that may be involved at this point to check.
I plan to replace the batteries regardless to insure those are good, will check them as a reference anyway.
I've checked the cable connections on the batteries (not the starter).
This is my first diesel pusher and I'm trying to learn. Any and all help is appreciated.
Randal
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08-25-2021, 08:58 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 652
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If you haven’t, you need to hold the aux button down several minutes so the house batteries can charge the starting batteries. If you are just pushing and releasing the aux start you are not getting the benefit of the house batteries.
__________________
2018 Phaeton 44OH
2017 Chevy Traverse Toad
Florida
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08-25-2021, 10:43 AM
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#3
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Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 48
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Start the Generator to let the inverter charge the house as well as the chassis batteries.
__________________
Wayne & Jo Ann
2018 Allegro Bus 45OPP
Troy Oh. & The Villages Fl.
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08-25-2021, 11:19 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Frankfort, KY
Posts: 1,906
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We just went through this and ended up with very bad chassis batteries. In order to use the auxiliary start you will need to keep it pressed for 6-10 minutes. I did not know this at first but it did work. I used a leg from my portable sat dish wedged between the drivers chair and the switch so I didn't have to sit there with my finger on it.
Good luck getting her started.
__________________
Scott and Deanna
2014 Tiffin Allegro Bus 45LP
Home base - Polk City, FL
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08-25-2021, 01:51 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 15
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Took my batteries and had them checked at the local Interstate Battery dealer, and they are fine, full charge, 930-940 CCA, hold up to load test.
Looking around to check cables for tightness, loose, etc. Will look around more, figure out if I can check voltage at the starter, beginning to think it might be a bad starter. It tried to turn over a little, a few times, and eventually nothing. It's done this every so often, I always thought it was the batteries, seemed like once it started and ran a while, it started fine.
The saga continues, other input and ideas are welcome.
Randal
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08-26-2021, 07:04 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1,678
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If you can borrow a clamp on amp meter, that would tell you if the starter is requiring too many amps. Or buy one. It is a great tool for the toolbox. The auto parts stores may lend you one.
Alternatively, an ohm meter would tell you if the cable from the starter to the batteries is bad.
__________________
2014 Tiffin Allegro Bus 37AP
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08-26-2021, 08:37 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1,678
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I would also do the same ohm test on your ground to the starter.
__________________
2014 Tiffin Allegro Bus 37AP
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08-28-2021, 06:43 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 15
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Checked the voltages on batteries, cables and at the starter. I tapped on the starter with a hammer to see if it would come around, but it didn't, no changes.
Here are the voltages I found, checked them twice, second time after giving a little charge to the batteries.
12.87 at battery; 12.48 with ignition on at solenoid; 12.05 at starter with load (trying to start).
2nd run-
12.92 at batteries; 12.72 with ignition on at solenoid; 12.4 at starter with load (trying to start).
So, I'm thinking it must be a bad starter, it doesn't even try to do anything at all.
Thoughts?
Randal
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08-28-2021, 06:51 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,749
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Sounds like a bad battery. A bad battery can sink so much current the aux switch can't help.
I proactively change chassis batteries at five years. If you don't schedule it they will schedule it for you.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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08-28-2021, 08:01 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1,678
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I agree. Bad solenoid or starter.
__________________
2014 Tiffin Allegro Bus 37AP
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08-30-2021, 10:14 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 15
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I'm planning to replace my starter unit myself. It's dead in the water here at home, figure this is the best route to go.
Anybody ever purchase a starter for your motorhome? I got some part numbers from Tiffin specific to my coach for the starter, solenoid and relay; looks like I need to go through Freightliner for these. Just wanted to get any experience you may have on finding parts, good or bad.
Thanks, Randal
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08-30-2021, 01:15 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 15
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I ended up calling Tiffin to get the starter information. They were very helpful and gave me the starter part number and pointed me toward Freightliner. I made some calls and found two different starters available. One is an upgraded unit and one the original stock unit. Thought I would share the info here in case anyone was interested.
There is a 38MT and a 39MT (upgrade) unit available- here are the differences I could find.
38MT max CCA is 1875, 39MT max CCA 2500
38MT does not have OCP (over crank protection), 39MT has OCP
38MT has fixed flange mount, 39MT has rotating flange mount (for wider model application)
39MT may have some wiring differences to figure out because it fits a wider range of applications.
39MT may have upgraded premium material in certain areas (??)
39MT has a 3 yr/unlimited mile warranty, not sure on 38MT
Price ranges (new starters); 38MT $237- 247, 39MT ranges $348-369.
Thought I would pass this along as information that someone may be curious about. I'll think on this overnight and make a choice.
Randal
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08-31-2021, 10:17 AM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 15
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Oops, stray voltage or loss??
Went to pull of my starter, disconnected batteries and checked voltage to insure all was good, found 1.2 v difference floating around.
Now, I'm wondering If I've got a bad connection, cable or something else (residual power??). Trying to check to see if I can find anything anywhere. I don't have long enough leads on my multi-meter to reach from the batteries to the cables at the starter so I'm trying to find those. In the meantime, I'm asking for any help or input on what to try or look for.
Thanks so much for any input and for listening to my ramble on.
Randal
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08-31-2021, 12:31 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdtebeau
Went to pull of my starter, disconnected batteries and checked voltage to insure all was good, found 1.2 v difference floating around.
Now, I'm wondering If I've got a bad connection, cable or something else (residual power??). Trying to check to see if I can find anything anywhere. I don't have long enough leads on my multi-meter to reach from the batteries to the cables at the starter so I'm trying to find those. In the meantime, I'm asking for any help or input on what to try or look for.
Thanks so much for any input and for listening to my ramble on.
Randal
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Spoke to Chris at Freightliner in Gaffney, after sharing my checks and findings he explained it is normal to have some slight voltage present and that 1.2 is nothing to worry about, starter should be the culprit.
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