RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Tiffin Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-22-2020, 06:54 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Blaine, Minnesota
Posts: 69
2019 Open Road engine cover

Wondering if anyone has removed the engine cover,dog house, on their 2019 gas motorhome. Iím not seeing any obvious fasteners or breaks in the carpet. Iím sure there are hidden screws, just where is the question. Not needing to remove it now, just planning ahead.
Thanks for any information.
Ken
KenJr is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 11-23-2020, 10:00 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Boca Raton
Posts: 138
I removed mine to insulate for sound. There were a total of 6 screws. Three were on the 'first ridge' above the floor along the rear of the doghouse between the cup holder assy and the carpet strip on the floor. They are hidden in the carpet but if you feel along top of that ridge and separate the carpet tufts you should be able to find them. There were three large grey phillips head screws. The other three were along the front, top ridge at the firewall. You have to remove the cup holder tray assy to reach them. That cup holder/tray is held in with screws to the doghouse....you access two of them by removing the cup holder from the tray (a few phillips head screws that you can see) and one or two more under the dash...you access those by removing the velcro access panel on top of the dash, look down in there and you will see them amongst the cables.

Once removed you should find the screws the same way....buried in the carpet. The tray came out easily after that.

Once the six screws were removed I had to pull out approximately one million staples from the carpet strip extending around the doghouse at the floor.

The doghouse came out easily after that. Reinstalling it was pretty straight forward however, I had to do a lot of sealing of gaps in the floor that Tiffin neglected to do. The bottom of the carpet was directly exposed to the weather, water, heat, etc.

Sorry, I don't have access to photos right now to post.


Paul
__________________
2018 Allegro 36LA
2017 Jeep Wrangler Sport/2D
Ready Brute Elite/Blue Ox BP
StaRVGazer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2020, 02:59 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Blaine, Minnesota
Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by StaRVGazer View Post
I removed mine to insulate for sound. There were a total of 6 screws. Three were on the 'first ridge' above the floor along the rear of the doghouse between the cup holder assy and the carpet strip on the floor. They are hidden in the carpet but if you feel along top of that ridge and separate the carpet tufts you should be able to find them. There were three large grey phillips head screws. The other three were along the front, top ridge at the firewall. You have to remove the cup holder tray assy to reach them. That cup holder/tray is held in with screws to the doghouse....you access two of them by removing the cup holder from the tray (a few phillips head screws that you can see) and one or two more under the dash...you access those by removing the velcro access panel on top of the dash, look down in there and you will see them amongst the cables.

Once removed you should find the screws the same way....buried in the carpet. The tray came out easily after that.

Once the six screws were removed I had to pull out approximately one million staples from the carpet strip extending around the doghouse at the floor.

The doghouse came out easily after that. Reinstalling it was pretty straight forward however, I had to do a lot of sealing of gaps in the floor that Tiffin neglected to do. The bottom of the carpet was directly exposed to the weather, water, heat, etc.

Sorry, I don't have access to photos right now to post.


Paul


Thanks for the reply, if you can get access to the photos that would be appreciated.
Ken
KenJr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2020, 06:27 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 53
StaRVGazer --- I'm interested in what you did to insulate the doghouse?
thx...
__________________
Tiffin SA32 2017
Safety Plus/Sumo springs
iCampTwo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2020, 07:34 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Blaine, Minnesota
Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by iCampTwo View Post
StaRVGazer --- I'm interested in what you did to insulate the doghouse?
thx...
Very interested also.
Ken
KenJr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2020, 07:44 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
SimRacer's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Western NC
Posts: 110
Not StaRVGazer but,, when I did my Bounder I used DYNAMAT Hoodliner. I needed about 1 1/2 packs/boxes. Much reduced engine noise and heat. I was hoping my 34PA (on order) will not need as much but I am a bit disappointed you guys need this.
__________________
Tom & Kay +KAISER--Miniature Schnauzer// TIFFIN model ?? (2021 OPEN ROAD 34 PA on order) Tireminder A1A / 2002 Jeep Wrangler/-2013 Bounder Classic 34M SOLD, 1985 Mobile Traveler M-260RDB/ 1993 SOUTHWIND 30E/ 2009 COUGAR 29RKS 5ver
SimRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2020, 08:03 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Blaine, Minnesota
Posts: 69
The engine noise on my 36ua is not much of an issue and is probably quieter than my Bounder with the sound deadening added. Starvgazer has me concerned about the cover to floor fit.
KenJr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2020, 05:40 AM   #8
Member
 
Robert41's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Syracuse
Posts: 73
How much difference did it make?
Robert41 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2020, 03:34 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Boca Raton
Posts: 138
I can't seem to locate all the photos that I had but attached is a photo of the engine cover/console area. The three vertical arrows along the front are where the front screws were located. I used a magnetic pick up tool to find them.

The horizontal arrow in the back shows the top ridge along the fire wall. Once you remove the cup holder and the console that ridge is exposed. There were three screws along that ridge.

The carpet is all one piece covering the engine cover and out onto the floor for four or five inches. Stapled to the floor as mentioned. I did not reattach it to the floor and it has not been a problem.

The sound attenuation was significant. It was difficult to hold a normal conversation in the front and, since I am a creature of the long drive and listening to music, I wanted to reduce the noise. Also, hill climbing and coming back down the mountain in tow-haul mode was a little loud.

Through a fluke in the ordering process I wound up with equal amounts of Dynamat Hood Liner and Stinger Roadkill. I had experience with both products for different applications. I ordered enough to do the following surfaces:
  • Underside of engine cover
  • Exterior of firewall above the floor
  • Exterior underside of front dash
  • Exterior underside of floor, side to side, including over the wheels from the front of the coach to the first slide, behind the transmission.
  • I also wrapped the A/C ducts exposed in the front compartment with Hood Liner.

After cleaning all surfaces I applied first the Stinger Roadkill and then the 3/4" Hood Liner on top of that. The Roadkill has very good vibration attenuation properties as well as sound attenuation, the Hood Liner is good with sound and heat.

The result was very quite at cruising speeds. The engine drone and transmission whine was cut down considerable. What emerged was tire/road noise but mainly b/c everything else was muted.

The engine cover sets on an FRP frame rail. I sealed around that frame rail between the floor and the rail with silicon sealant and also sealed the gaps in the flooring. I put a layer of Stinger Roadkill on the rail where the engine cover mates. Hood liner is too thick for that. I did bolster the hood liner so that in protrudes down over the seal between the cover and rail on the engine side. There was plenty of room between the engine and the final layer of insulation under the cover. Maybe an inch or more.....and that was to the dipstick tube which was the highest part of the motor.

FYI.....once I spent a lot of time down there I realized there is actually a lot of work that I could do on that engine if I had to without removing the cover b/c the sides and front are almost entirely exposed.

Paul
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1053.jpg
Views:	14
Size:	531.3 KB
ID:	309159   Click image for larger version

Name:	engine cover  1.jpg
Views:	15
Size:	437.7 KB
ID:	309160  

Attached Files
File Type: pdf engine cover 1.pdf (481.6 KB, 13 views)
__________________
2018 Allegro 36LA
2017 Jeep Wrangler Sport/2D
Ready Brute Elite/Blue Ox BP
StaRVGazer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2020, 03:46 PM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Blaine, Minnesota
Posts: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by StaRVGazer View Post
I can't seem to locate all the photos that I had but attached is a photo of the engine cover/console area. The three vertical arrows along the front are where the front screws were located. I used a magnetic pick up tool to find them.



The horizontal arrow in the back shows the top ridge along the fire wall. Once you remove the cup holder and the console that ridge is exposed. There were three screws along that ridge.



The carpet is all one piece covering the engine cover and out onto the floor for four or five inches. Stapled to the floor as mentioned. I did not reattach it to the floor and it has not been a problem.



The sound attenuation was significant. It was difficult to hold a normal conversation in the front and, since I am a creature of the long drive and listening to music, I wanted to reduce the noise. Also, hill climbing and coming back down the mountain in tow-haul mode was a little loud.



Through a fluke in the ordering process I wound up with equal amounts of Dynamat Hood Liner and Stinger Roadkill. I had experience with both products for different applications. I ordered enough to do the following surfaces:
  • Underside of engine cover
  • Exterior of firewall above the floor
  • Exterior underside of front dash
  • Exterior underside of floor, side to side, including over the wheels from the front of the coach to the first slide, behind the transmission.
  • I also wrapped the A/C ducts exposed in the front compartment with Hood Liner.



After cleaning all surfaces I applied first the Stinger Roadkill and then the 3/4" Hood Liner on top of that. The Roadkill has very good vibration attenuation properties as well as sound attenuation, the Hood Liner is good with sound and heat.



The result was very quite at cruising speeds. The engine drone and transmission whine was cut down considerable. What emerged was tire/road noise but mainly b/c everything else was muted.



The engine cover sets on an FRP frame rail. I sealed around that frame rail between the floor and the rail with silicon sealant and also sealed the gaps in the flooring. I put a layer of Stinger Roadkill on the rail where the engine cover mates. Hood liner is too thick for that. I did bolster the hood liner so that in protrudes down over the seal between the cover and rail on the engine side. There was plenty of room between the engine and the final layer of insulation under the cover. Maybe an inch or more.....and that was to the dipstick tube which was the highest part of the motor.



FYI.....once I spent a lot of time down there I realized there is actually a lot of work that I could do on that engine if I had to without removing the cover b/c the sides and front are almost entirely exposed.



Paul


Great information, thank you.
Ken
KenJr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
cover, engine



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Weight of 2018/2019 34PA Open Road vettenuts Tiffin Owner's Forum 7 09-04-2018 09:27 AM
From the open water to the open road... whiskywizard New Member Check-In 2 10-19-2009 07:39 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:58 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.