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Old 04-29-2021, 08:21 AM   #1
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2021 Allegro RED 340 38LL

I would appreciate input from other owners of the new 2021 Allegro RED 38LL about the TV across from the recliners.
Does it swivel far enough to view from the dinette or did you change out the mounting bracket to allow it to pivot?
Thank You
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Old 04-29-2021, 07:37 PM   #2
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I have 340 38LL for about 3 weeks. I have no problem sitting at the dinette and watching the TV screen. The TV is mounted at an angle so you can see it from front. It's a great view from the recliners and the couch.

We have made 1 trip. Only problems found 1-dash a/c does not blow cold air and 2-Tiffin is having problems with furniture... our the captain chairs are both drivers chair and no foot rest. Tiffin is waiting for some chairs to arrive in a few days and they have a traveling tech that is going bring the chairs to me and install them.
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Old 04-30-2021, 07:56 AM   #3
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HappyCowboy,
Thanks for the information. We are going to look at a 38LL tomorrow, Saturday. Perhaps to upgrade from our Seneca.
Also good to know about the seating situation. I'll have to verify if it needs to be replaced.
Was this your first DP? If so what did you have prior to the 38LL? One reason we are looking to upgrade is to improve the ride. Our Seneca seems to have a very harsh ride and have heard that a DP will improve that.
Thanks again
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Old 04-30-2021, 01:21 PM   #4
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This is our first Tiffin diesel pusher. If you are looking at 38LL already at the dealer check the drivers slide. The 33LL original had a Schwintech slide but they changed to hydraulic slide in November of 2020. We have the hydraulic slide.
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Old 04-30-2021, 02:26 PM   #5
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Thanks again very useful information. Yes it's in inventory so I'll make sure to check the slide.
What coach did you have prior to your Tiffin?
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Old 04-30-2021, 03:40 PM   #6
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We had a Tiffin 36LA previously... a gas motorhome with very similar floor plan to 38LL
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Old 05-22-2021, 10:09 PM   #7
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We purchased a 38LL last month. haven't seen a need to change the angle on the Tv.
I wanted to ask if you have the leveling system that does not utilize any leveling Jack's? I am used to lowering Jack's on my previous motorhome and wonder if this is a new thing or a what?
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Originally Posted by Fordfixer1 View Post
I would appreciate input from other owners of the new 2021 Allegro RED 38LL about the TV across from the recliners.
Does it swivel far enough to view from the dinette or did you change out the mounting bracket to allow it to pivot?
Thank You
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Old 05-22-2021, 10:11 PM   #8
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I wanted to ask if you have the leveling system that does not utilize any leveling Jack's? I am used to lowering Jack's on my previous motorhome and wonder if this is a new thing or a what?
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Originally Posted by HappyCowboy View Post
I have 340 38LL for about 3 weeks. I have no problem sitting at the dinette and watching the TV screen. The TV is mounted at an angle so you can see it from front. It's a great view from the recliners and the couch.

We have made 1 trip. Only problems found 1-dash a/c does not blow cold air and 2-Tiffin is having problems with furniture... our the captain chairs are both drivers chair and no foot rest. Tiffin is waiting for some chairs to arrive in a few days and they have a traveling tech that is going bring the chairs to me and install them.
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Old 07-14-2021, 11:48 AM   #9
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Leveling system uses the air bags not hydraulic jacks. Unsure if this is a desirable way or not.
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Old 07-16-2021, 08:04 PM   #10
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I'm not too sure I like it. It's easier potentially, but not as steady. When the washer is spinning, the RV is a rocking! May give someone the wrong impression!!!
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Old 07-17-2021, 11:32 PM   #11
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Allegro RED 340 experience

We have the unit your are asking about. It has the electrically operated slides. No problems so far.


The television opposite the recliners is fixed in position; no swivel. It is much closer to our eyes than a den TV, so the 40"-ish size looks very big.


One consideration is the conflict between the driver's seat back and the wood molding around the forward end of the left slide when it is retracted. Its position behind the driver's seat limits both the aft travel and recline of the driver's seat to the point that I have to put a big sign in the driver's seat for service people warning them not to recline or move aft the front seat from its present position to prevent further chewing up of my wood trim and knocking the left slide control off the side of the driver's seat like Freightliner did. My right knee rests firmly against the instrument panel when driving and I would lose both legs in any front end accident; a terrible bit of design.


Our leveling system is the Valid pneumatic only system that uses the suspension's airbags to level the unit when parked. It's range of motion is less than hydraulic jacks. We have gotten one "Slope" indication so far that indicates it has reached the limits of its range, and the touch pad has failed once in the seven months we have owned it (over two of those were spent in the shop). I have had to cut and carry 2x12s to add range of motion to the leveling system by shimming a side or end as required. BUT, it is much better in a parking lot or rest area. Just touch the Auto button and you're level without chewing up the asphalt or breaking rules. We find the unit very solid and stable when parked.



One SERIOUS problem is the weight distribution of the 38LL unit. The side to side weights are nothing close to the same. I thought I had plenty of spare weight capacity, but I recently got a four corner weighing (DON'T SKIP THIS). With two people trying somewhat to keep the weight down, I found the left front tire was overloaded by 15 lbs even though I weigh 170 lbs and my wife is 145 lbs (really), and the right rear was within 310 lbs of the tire limit without the 170 lb washing machine, broken and at dealer. With it, I would be within 140 lbs of max on the RR. Note the LF and RR are close to tire limit weight. By comparison, the left rear tires are 1,800 lbs under their limit. After the weighing I redistributed weight as much as I could and improved things somewhat. But the best I can do allows me to carry full fuel, but nothing in the black or grey tanks and I am limited to 1/3 tank of fresh water. I now have good margins on all corners except the LF, which is only 140 lbs below the tire limit. Unfortunately, I cannot move the house batteries which sit squarely on the LF tire. All the batteries would be better located in the left rear. It is hard to transfer weight from two opposite corners to the other opposite corners. I have considered buying stouter tires.


I emphasize it is very important to find a scale, certified or not, that will let you put the tires on one side of your unit off the scales to the side and weigh only the other side. Most scales that are not elevated on steel beams can do this because of the small lateral distance you need to be off the scale. Then pull around and reweigh the entire rig. Subtracting right only from the entire axle weight will give you each corner's weight. You don't have to be far off the edge of the scale to weigh only one side and the other tires will end up right in the middle of the platforms. CAT thinks they would be way off center and hurt their scale and prohibits one side weighing, but not all their locations abide by it... and the one side will be in the center, so how can it hurt it? Go inside first and explain what you are doing and that your weight will be in the middle and tell them you will pay for two weighings. This process will probably save you from blow outs and maybe worse. If I ordered my motorhome I would skip the washer dryer just for weight and for sure I would demand a four corner weighing before closing on the purchase. This floor plan has no inside storage to add weight to the LR, but all the canned goods, refridge, solid surface counters, tons of cabinets, two TVs, and two toilets and associated plumbing are on the right.


As for satellite, I would never again pay for a roof mounted system of any sort. Seven out of eight of our trips have had thick tree cover. We use the antenna or books.
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Old 07-18-2021, 05:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Love2Pack View Post
We have the unit your are asking about. It has the electrically operated slides. No problems so far.


The television opposite the recliners is fixed in position; no swivel. It is much closer to our eyes than a den TV, so the 40"-ish size looks very big.


One consideration is the conflict between the driver's seat back and the wood molding around the forward end of the left slide when it is retracted. Its position behind the driver's seat limits both the aft travel and recline of the driver's seat to the point that I have to put a big sign in the driver's seat for service people warning them not to recline or move aft the front seat from its present position to prevent further chewing up of my wood trim and knocking the left slide control off the side of the driver's seat like Freightliner did. My right knee rests firmly against the instrument panel when driving and I would lose both legs in any front end accident; a terrible bit of design.


Our leveling system is the Valid pneumatic only system that uses the suspension's airbags to level the unit when parked. It's range of motion is less than hydraulic jacks. We have gotten one "Slope" indication so far that indicates it has reached the limits of its range, and the touch pad has failed once in the seven months we have owned it (over two of those were spent in the shop). I have had to cut and carry 2x12s to add range of motion to the leveling system by shimming a side or end as required. BUT, it is much better in a parking lot or rest area. Just touch the Auto button and you're level without chewing up the asphalt or breaking rules. We find the unit very solid and stable when parked.



One SERIOUS problem is the weight distribution of the 38LL unit. The side to side weights are nothing close to the same. I thought I had plenty of spare weight capacity, but I recently got a four corner weighing (DON'T SKIP THIS). With two people trying somewhat to keep the weight down, I found the left front tire was overloaded by 15 lbs even though I weigh 170 lbs and my wife is 145 lbs (really), and the right rear was within 310 lbs of the tire limit without the 170 lb washing machine, broken and at dealer. With it, I would be within 140 lbs of max on the RR. Note the LF and RR are close to tire limit weight. By comparison, the left rear tires are 1,800 lbs under their limit. After the weighing I redistributed weight as much as I could and improved things somewhat. But the best I can do allows me to carry full fuel, but nothing in the black or grey tanks and I am limited to 1/3 tank of fresh water. I now have good margins on all corners except the LF, which is only 140 lbs below the tire limit. Unfortunately, I cannot move the house batteries which sit squarely on the LF tire. All the batteries would be better located in the left rear. It is hard to transfer weight from two opposite corners to the other opposite corners. I have considered buying stouter tires.


I emphasize it is very important to find a scale, certified or not, that will let you put the tires on one side of your unit off the scales to the side and weigh only the other side. Most scales that are not elevated on steel beams can do this because of the small lateral distance you need to be off the scale. Then pull around and reweigh the entire rig. Subtracting right only from the entire axle weight will give you each corner's weight. You don't have to be far off the edge of the scale to weigh only one side and the other tires will end up right in the middle of the platforms. CAT thinks they would be way off center and hurt their scale and prohibits one side weighing, but not all their locations abide by it... and the one side will be in the center, so how can it hurt it? Go inside first and explain what you are doing and that your weight will be in the middle and tell them you will pay for two weighings. This process will probably save you from blow outs and maybe worse. If I ordered my motorhome I would skip the washer dryer just for weight and for sure I would demand a four corner weighing before closing on the purchase. This floor plan has no inside storage to add weight to the LR, but all the canned goods, refridge, solid surface counters, tons of cabinets, two TVs, and two toilets and associated plumbing are on the right.


As for satellite, I would never again pay for a roof mounted system of any sort. Seven out of eight of our trips have had thick tree cover. We use the antenna or books.
I have found the same issue with the Driver seat. I did find a happy medium that allows me to have a little knee room while not cramming the slide controller into the wood molding on the slide. It took me a while to realize that the foot pedals and the steering column could be adjusted. That helps a bunch.
As for the leveling system, I'm not a big fan. the coach moves more in a windy location, the washer spin cycle is more than annoying, and I too carry some plywood planks so that I can reach a level position on less than level spots. I also know when one of my grandkids moves around in the front of the coach! It also doesn't seem to be able to handle a slope of only a half bubble off center. I appreciate not having Jack's to check on before breaking camp, but would prefer the better firmness that they offer. As we parked in Myrtle Beach last month, a neighboring camper told me to be sure the Jack's would be on the concrete pad. I told him I didn't have jacks, and he about fainted, saying that he couldn't believe Tiffin would go that cheap! LOL!
I'm surprised you found a weight discrepancy on the coach. The slide mechanism, along with furniture and the overhead cabinets would seem to balance out the coach.
On the weight, The tires have different load limits depending on the tire pressure used. Were you using the recommended 110 psi rating ,or something else.
I'm still more than happy with this coach overall. The floorplan, the ride, the fuel mileage, the storage space, and the spyder system, are all a plus for me. I have seen a few comments about not enough HP for the unit, but after my last 3124 mile trip, I have no concerns at all, and the 10.5 mpg average while pulling a car was great in my book!
Also, I found that the hot water is delayed in getting to the shower for nearly 1 minute. This is only a problem if boondocking. I have a solution. I'm installing a hot water loop with a automatic valve that returns the water back to the water tank until it reaches 95 degrees F. This will limit the fresh water loss and reduce the grey water tank getting filled prematurely. FYI.
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Old 07-19-2021, 09:48 PM   #13
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TreeTopGuy, thank you for the tip about the pedals and steering wheel. That does get my knees off the dashboard.


The delivering tech put 100 psi in the tires and I found Michelin's chart for my tires showed that to be the correct pressure based on my weighing of the front and rear axles on an elevated scale. The more I thought about potential deviation from even side to side balance I decided to go to 105 psi. After my four corner weighing I bumped everything up to 110, which, as you know, doesn't add much capacity over 105. I thought I was good since I was well under the sticker in the front door jamb until I did a four corner weighing. I was NOT and NO I cannot carry as much as the carrying capacity on the sticker, at least not with these tires.



I got my four corner weighing done at Love's at the I-40 Exit #163 for TN 48. My left tires ended up being dead center on the scale laterally, the right tires off. The platforms are named Steer, Drive and Trailer for the parts of a semi that usually are stopped on each of the three platforms. I told the lady inside that I would only use the Drive and Trailer scales, that the Steer scale would be empty, weighing zero (because I had to stay back have room to get through the gate at the end). I had to get out to talk over the intercom and made sure neither of us stood on the scale. I later added in my weight to the LF and my wife's to the RF. I then hooked up the towed car and drove onto the scales again. This time I pulled both sides onto the three platforms, towed car on the Trailer scale. When I went inside she gave me two weigh tickets and I paid her $25 for two weighings. Later when I had time I did the math which took a while. I added weight for full fuel and estimated the percentage on each corner of each item that could be moved, filled or emptied. I then decided what I would move to improve the balance and redid the weight sheet. I need to do another four corner weighing to verify my estimates.


I would rather have hydraulic jacks. I complained and complained about the Valid air bag leveling system until I accepted that its air pump is going to operate every two hours while we are camped and that Freightliner cannot make a pneumatic system that doesn't leak... a lot; 15 psi/hour is "normal." We sleep with a white noise machine, so we don't hear the pump run at night. I got the Valid control panel replaced and figured out how to use blocks to compensate for its limited lift. Now I find it quick, accurate, stable and usable in places jacks may not or cannot be used. I do request level camp sites. It is great to be able to go to High Ride in five seconds when crossing banked railroad tracks or a culvert.


TreeTopGuy, your solution to the wasted water getting hot to the shower is BRILLIANT! I want to learn the details of how you are going to do that. Will it fix the same problem at the kitchen sink? My low tech solution, not yet needed for boondocking, has been to run the hand shower into a clean bucket until hot, shower, then pour the cold water back in the fresh tank. I like yours much better. Let's talk about it.


I have found the Fuel Used display on the trip computers to be dead accurate. On our TX to NC trip I got 12.28 mpg towing a 3800 lb CR-V at 60 mph, calm winds on flat roads. In mountains, with some generator use and two massive traffic jams I still got 10.8. I am using Power Service "Diesel Fuel Supplement and Cetane Boost" which says, among other things, "boosts power." The boosts power sounds like snake oil, but two Power Service additives are the only diesel fuel supplements that Cummins recommends. What speed are you traveling getting 10.5 mpg towing?
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Old 07-20-2021, 10:05 AM   #14
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38LL

Glad to help!
You have done a lot of work on the weight and balance issue. Thanks for your insight. One Question? I know that the tow car weight is taken into account on your weigh process, but that weight is not direct weight on the chassis. Are you adding that weight to the total payload? That weight comes into play when towing and braking, but the static weight is still supported by the wheels on the car and not the freightliner chassis.
I have not ever heard a pump run to keep the air bags up during a long stay. As a matter of fact, My unit is in the shop for it's 30 day checkup after purchase, and I told them the unit will not maintain level overnight. Maybe I have a problem with a pump? The other thing that I hope is just on my rig and not all of them, is that some dummy that was sealing the outside access doors for the outside TV and the refrigerator access only sealed the sides and the bottom of the door framework. In a good rain, I found these would leak inside the coach and water would run across the floor inside! I wrote Tiffin and they heard my concern loud and clear. If it were me, I would fire any worker that can't seem to count to "four" when sealing up the outside seams to a cabinet!
since my unit is in the shop for it's checkup, I can't finish my hot water project yet. This will come in really handy when we go to the Albuquerque balloon fiesta in October. We will have 7 people boondocking and need to conserve!
What I found, is that the water is pumped back to the back of the coach to get to the on-demand hot water heater. It then goes back to underneath the 1/2 bath ( under the sink) where it is dispensed in a hot water manifold. From this manifold it goes to the different parts of the coach ( kitchen, back bath and shower). This is the reason that the hot water takes so long to reach the shower. I don't think I can run a 1/2 inch reinforced tubing all the way from the back shower easily, but I did find the hot water supply line located in the outside storage door on the passenger side that also has the gravity fill nozzle. I have purchased 2 1/2 inch water valves and one special valve to use. I will install a Tee and the special valve in the hot water line in this cabinet and install one shut off valve there. I will run a hose to the 1/2 bath and connect the second valve so that I can turn this bypass on and off from inside the coach. I will then rout the 1/2 inch hose back to the water closet where the gravity water fill is, and splice it into the big hose that is used for the gravity feed. The neat thing is, this special valve will let water through until it gets to 95 degrees F. then basically shut off ( it will run a trickle though after that so that it keeps enough water going to monitor the temp. I had to order it special since the ones that were normally used were set at 105 degrees F and I wanted it to shut down at 95 degrees F. I used 2 shut off valves for wo reasons. If I am connected to city water I don't want this system in play, so I will turn off both valves. If I am boondocking, I will leave the valve in the water closet on, and only use the one I mount under the 1/2 bath sink when I want to keep the hot water loop ready to showers, kitchen cleaning, etc.
this valve is called a "CircuitSolver CS" made by ThermOmegaTEch (I think model #CS-1/2-095). I contacted them and they directed me to one of their dealers, where I ordered it. It is not cheap! Paid about $158 for this little valve, but I expect it to be well worth it. If you need, I can look up where I ordered it and let you know. I did see that the 2022 Tiffin 38LL has done a similar thing to upgrade this coach. Guess we are not the only ones that have realized the problem!
Take care !
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