220V Stove?

[MONGO MAN]

Originally Posted by kannonvaggon

I most assuredly DO have to stand corrected.

The current model Summitt induction cooktop being installed by TMH is a true 220V unit which is wired through a double pole breaker....
so it won't operate on one line phase or the other but needs both. It ain't gonna work on a 30A feed at all.

On the other hand, it doesn't use as many AMPS cuz of the higher voltage.

There ya go. Learn sumtin every day....
I STILL don't want one them though ....

Here is another good one! Since the 2012 36ft BUS comes standard with only the 8kw Onan inverter genny incapable of 220v output - no other gen option normally available -if you order the all electric option you get the 10kw genny as a upgrade so the 220v induction cook top will work ! The 10-12 kw genny is almost TWICE as heavy as the 6-8kw unit but uses less fuel .

[docj]

Having replaced our Norcold with a residential unit and having a Hurriance heater running off diesel fuel as a furnace, our only remaining propane appliance is a two-burner cooktop which we rarely use. We have a countertop induction burner that runs fine off 110 V and provides ~1500 watts of cooking output. I'll probably never go through the trouble of removing the propane tank, but I do run with <25% of the tank filled to save a few pounds. Our 7kW Onan can handle the loads when we need it to. Going all-electric doesn't necessitate going to 240V.

[ottffss]

220v dryers, elec elements of AquaHot/Oasis, and stove tops are very common in RVs these days.

If all you are feeding these 220v appliances is 120v (via a 15/30amp-to-50amp dog bone adapter, any 50amp "cheater", or even the 120v version of the 50amp plug) then the 240v appliance simply won't run. No safety issue at all.

The super high end rigs run dual inverters tied together via a control circuit to deliver 220v inverter power.

The higher capacity gensets have always been 220v.

[RustyJC]

Originally Posted by ottffss

If all you are feeding these 220v appliances is 120v (via a 15/30amp-to-50amp dog bone adapter, any 50amp "cheater", or even the 120v version of the 50amp plug) then the 240v appliance simply won't run. No safety issue at all.

We're talking about 2 different systems. No, there's no danger to the applicance from a "miswired" (i.e., hots in phase) campground 50A feed, but there IS a risk of an overloaded neutral conductor from the power distribution panel in the RV back to the campground power pedestal. This holds true on any 50A RV, whether or not it has any 240VAC appliances.

208VAC service is another story.....

Rusty

[ottffss]

Originally Posted by RustyJC

We're talking about 2 different systems. No, there's no danger to the applicance from a "miswired" (i.e., hots in phase) campground 50A feed, but there IS a risk of an overloaded neutral conductor from the power distribution panel in the RV back to the campground power pedestal. This holds true on any 50A RV, whether or not it has any 240VAC appliances.

208VAC service is another story.....

Rusty

Rusty
Absolutely... Let me repeat, absolutely. Sorry for any confusion.

I was only addressing the "appliance side" of this situation as the RV distribution-panel-to-pedestal-and-beyond disaster waiting to happen was well discussed for the non-code "dual 120v non 220v" 50amp configuration.

It seems there are folks concerned about (trying) to turn on a 220v appliance when only connected to 120v (by whatever means) and trying to use a 220v appliance with only 120v present is a non-problem, it just won't work.

208VAC is MOST definitely another story.