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Old 01-07-2025, 10:12 AM   #1
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Aqua-Hot "Fault"

I am getting a "Fault" indication on the inside Spyder control for the Aqua-Hot. There are not fault indications on the Aqua-Hot panel. I serviced the unit with a new filter and nozzle. System starts up and runs great for several hours, sometimes for a day. Then when I check on the MH, the aqua-hot has cooled, the pumps are running and the inside control shows a "Fault" indication. This is my first experience with a Aqua-Hot system. Any suggestions as to the problem would be much appreciated?

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Old 01-07-2025, 10:45 AM   #2
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12V shutoff

Try rebooting the Spyder panel.
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Old 01-07-2025, 11:35 AM   #3
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On our display, there's a horizontal bar that, I think, says "AquaHot". If pressed will display the fault and allow you to get to a button where you press for 5 seconds to reset it.
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Old 01-09-2025, 10:32 AM   #4
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Problem continues

We put another nozzle in and made sure everything was set correctly. The set screw on the igniters was loose so we adjusted them and tightened everything. Reset the Sypder control. Aqua-Hot started fine but it did have some delay relighting on cycle 2 and 3. There was white smoke with raw fuel for a bit before it lit. The next many cycles started perfect. It was in the 20's in my shop. Went out this morning and it was in 'Fault' mode again. The Spyder control on the 2017 bus does not have the robust display and I do not know how to get a fault code. I am going to call Tiffin.
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Old 01-09-2025, 10:46 AM   #5
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If you’re trying to keep things from freezing in your coach, leave the AquaHot on electric if you’re having trouble with the diesel side.Our Mh garage is not heated nor insulated at this time. When it gets into the low 20s or lower I leave the furnace on electric, thermostat set to lowest setting. Coach closed up, all shades down. It will stay at 49 degrees
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Old 01-10-2025, 04:47 AM   #6
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Not making a whole ton of sense. Sequence should be, thermostat calls for heat. Check if unit is at operating temp, if not, blower motor comes on, then burner. Sensor makes sure the flame is actually lit. Once at operating temperature, next it checks the cold water bypass temp to make sure someone isn't taking a shower or something. If so, the stir pump comes on and the heater does not. Otherwise, the heating system pumps go on, valves pop open (God willing, although if it's been sitting a couple of years without running, they probably won't), and the register fans come on. If the unit is cold, that thing isn't even to second base, the register fans got no business running (if it's just that the registers are blowing cold air, check those valves)

Even on the older units like mine, troubleshooting isn't terribly difficult. I agree with ya so far, starting point is to make sure annual service is current and correct (taking it apart is always the easy part, ain't it?) Next step for me is to get down there with the control panel, make sure the connections are tight (which is usually it, those things can jiggle loose), check my coolant level. On some units you gotta make sure the cover is on nice and tight. See what your LED lights are trying to tell ya. Look, listen, feel and smell. If the answer doesn't jump out at ya, on my unit you have to make a jumper cable and isolate the problem at the control board.

It follows, at some point you gotta download the service manual for your unit. Believe me, this is not the last time you're gonna have words with this thing, among other things, you'll find it only ever wants to act up at 2am when it's freezing cold outside. "Honey, I'm cold!" Cat giving you the look that kills, you know the drill. Times like that, you gotta understand how the thing thinks.

"If you know the enemy and know yourself, you need not fear the result of a hundred battles. If you know yourself but not the enemy, for every victory gained you will also suffer a defeat"
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Old 01-11-2025, 09:25 AM   #7
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I’ve had ongoing issues with our AH450D going into fault after running flawlessly for a day or two. Full maintenance of the unit didn’t resolve the issue. Ours turned out to be air in the system that took 4 or 5 cycles of adding transfer fluid so the overflow reservoir was full, then running the pumps until the unit came up to temp and the fluid in the reservoir dropped to low until the fluid level was maintained at full or just below full level. Ours would overheat typically when it went into fault so it may be totally unrelated to your fault issue just thought I’d share our frustration and then resolution as something to check.
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Old 01-12-2025, 08:10 AM   #8
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Thanks for the info. When I served the unit, I accidentally left the cap off and lost some fluid. When I started it back, I noticed some air in the line. I will double check it before I install the $1,100 new control!
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Old 01-14-2025, 06:31 PM   #9
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We had the same problem last year and it drove us crazy. The fact that you said that the igniter nut was loose but you tightened it makes me think it was the same situation as we had. Your igniter is not aimed exactly as it should be. Tiffin realigned ours and we have not had a problem since. Our symptoms were the same as yours.
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Old 01-14-2025, 08:24 PM   #10
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Fault

Check the coil on top of the burner, mine just failed with same circumstances you report. Coil swapped out and fires perfectly. Coil $560 vs $1,100
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Old 01-20-2025, 05:27 AM   #11
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Curious if you were able to resolve your issue?
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Old 01-21-2025, 06:26 AM   #12
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I got in touch with a certified service tech the can get the control module hundreds of dollars cheaper that I can. Once this cold weather get through, I’m going to run over to Ted Bay and let her fix it.
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