Fogged window

[yudamann]

I have a badly fogged driver side window, dangerous in fact when trying to watch for traffic before pulling onto roadway. We are second owners of 2005 Bus. Has anyone approached Tiffin on warranty for fogged windows on a rig this old? If so, what was the resolution?

[paz]

We had 5 windows replaced under warranty a couple of years ago. Tiffin will cover the cost of labor and materials for 2 years and material only for the third year unless you go to Red Bay to have them replaced, in which case they threw in the labor for the third year at no charge.

Tiffin makes their own windows, and they have had a lot of problems. One of the windows we had replaced is now fogging again. Many RV manufacturers have problems with windows fogging. Bouncing down the road must break the seals fairly easily.

An alternative to replacing the window, especially since it's not under warranty, is to have it repaired. If you ever get to Florida, Suncoast Designers has a good reputation for window repair. We're going to give them a try for the window that fogged a second time when we get to Florida in a month or so.

If you do decide to have the window replaced, your local dealer can order it from Tiffin. If you decide to go to Red Bay to have the window replaced, call about 2 weeks before you go so they can make it made ahead of time so it is waiting for you when you arrive.

[KTMONE]

FYI, Just ordered a replacement window from Tiffin. I have the 05 Phaeton 38 and my chair window is fogged. The total cost was $367 with shipping to Arizona. There is a note on the pack slip indicating that the replacement window is guaranteed for 5 years. Now I just have to figure out how to install it!!

[Finhawk]

And I thought it was just a Winnibago problem . I don't feel so bad now!

[Chuck 1935]

I just had my crank out bedroom window fog on a trip back east, due I'm sure to high humidity and a leaking seal. On my Itasca I have noticed that it has a thick seal between the two panes of glass. In fact , thick enough to get a hypodermic needle in between the two panes. My plan is to put two or three needles through the seal and blow dry air into the one needle and vent it out the other two until the window is dry between the two panes. My question is, Has anyone tried this before and did it work ???

[bob109]

Originally Posted by Chuck 1935

I just had my crank out bedroom window fog on a trip back east, due I'm sure to high humidity and a leaking seal. On my Itasca I have noticed that it has a thick seal between the two panes of glass. In fact , thick enough to get a hypodermic needle in between the two panes. My plan is to put two or three needles through the seal and blow dry air into the one needle and vent it out the other two until the window is dry between the two panes. My question is, Has anyone tried this before and did it work ???

I was thinking of doing the exact same thing. I'm going to buy two large basting needles. They are used for injecting flavoring liquids into chicken. Having two windows which have moisture collecting between the panes in the bedroom is the target. I plan on inserting one needle into the top side edge of the window and inserting the second needle into the bottom center and attach my vacume to it. Using the top needle as a vent I believe I should be able to vacume the traped moisture from between the panes. A dab of silicone to the entry points, once the needles are removed, should seal the original factory rubber.

[espy1949]

very easy. i've done my 07 phaeton twice. remove all the screws on the inside frame of the window you are replacing. you'll need someone on the outside to prevent the window from falling out as you will need tho push the unit out from the inside. once you have the old one out clean all the factory caulk off the motorhome, apply the seal to the edge of the new unit making sure that the joint in the seal is at the bottom of window frame apply it along the edge uniformally and when you install it in to the opening have someone hold it in place and install your 2 piece inner frame. tighten the screws evenly alternating from one to another until they are tight' a cordless drill w/a square drive for the screws works great. when you are through tightening all the screws go outside and apply a good grade clear silicone caulk to the top and 1/2 way down both sides you are done cut a small opening in the tube to avoid making a mess with the silicone when u are applying it good luck

[Chuck 1935]

bob109, I just decided to work on my fogged bedroom crank out window. I took a sawz all blade, by hand, and started sawing on the gasket in the corner of the window. Not only was the seal very dry, but it was easy to cut. Once I dry out the moisture I will reseal with some black silicone. Very Very easy.

[AZgl1500]

Nitrogen injected in through those needles will clear the fogging up fast. The air you pump in may have just as much humidity in it, as the air inside the windows.

If you can manage to seal the window up with only nitrogen as the inner medium, you will be satisfied longer. No vacuum there please, that encourages more moisture to seep in.

[Chuck 1935]

Originally Posted by AZgl1500

Nitrogen injected in through those needles will clear the fogging up fast. The air you pump in may have just as much humidity in it, as the air inside the windows.

If you can manage to seal the window up with only nitrogen as the inner medium, you will be satisfied longer. No vacuum there please, that encourages more moisture to seep in.

I'm in California so dry air is not a problem. I like the idea of the nitrogen. Are you saying that if I inject nitrogen, assuming that I have a hole for it to escape , that it will remove the moisture by it's self ?

[bob109]

Originally Posted by Chuck 1935

bob109, I just decided to work on my fogged bedroom crank out window. I took a sawz all blade, by hand, and started sawing on the gasket in the corner of the window. Not only was the seal very dry, but it was easy to cut. Once I dry out the moisture I will reseal with some black silicone. Very Very easy.

Chuck, I just purchased two poultry syringes from WalMart. They were $4.00 each. The needles are approximately 1/16" dia. a bit larger than I thought they should be. That said, I've decided to use a small drill bit, 1/32" dia. and use is to make two starter holes which will seal tight around the needles. Once that is done I'll draw a vacum on the lowest positioned needle to remove the moisture and finally seal the holes with black Permatex Gasket Maker. I'll give you a update on this procedure

[Chuck 1935]

bob109
The nitrogen thing sounds interesting. If I can get hold of some nitrogen I might give it a try. When I saw the condition of the seals it's no wonder that they don't hold a seal. My MH is in a garage when I am not driving it and the seals are still dried out. When I finish the job I am going to put a bead of silicon over the existing seal around the edge. Maybe that will make it airtight again. How about this, when the windows heat up or cool down I'm sure either pressure builds up between the two panes or as it cools it would form a vacuum. It's an interesting thought.

[justimagination]

Originally Posted by bob109

Chuck, I just purchased two poultry syringes from WalMart. They were $4.00 each. The needles are approximately 1/16" dia. a bit larger than I thought they should be. That said, I've decided to use a small drill bit, 1/32" dia. and use is to make two starter holes which will seal tight around the needles. Once that is done I'll draw a vacum on the lowest positioned needle to remove the moisture and finally seal the holes with black Permatex Gasket Maker. I'll give you a update on this procedure

Bob:....... Please update us as soon as you try it, I think you have the ticket for this never ending problem. Good luck.
David G.

[Chuck 1935]

I just looked up dual pane windows and found that they use argon gas as a filler between the two panes. Where to get argon gas, BINGO thats what I use in my mig welder. Things are looking better all the time. I can almost smell success !!!!