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Old 05-24-2020, 09:47 PM   #1
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Highway Sway: Shocks or Springs?

Title says it all.
We took our 2011 Open Road 35qba on her maiden voyage of 5.5 hours. So, the trip was fine except the body roll left and right was terrible. But the worst was the front end bottoming out. It has Bilsteins all the way around and the springs dont look flat. Is this a common issue or what can I do to prevent the front end from hitting the bottom? Plus I have lots of squeaking when we go over rolly bumps or cracks in the road.

And then one other thing, We have the V10 engine and I see it has a banks Air Intake! OMFG! Its so loud when in passing or climbing. We bought this in November as a 2nd owner and with 21k on it. So, am I able to go back to stock or was the Banks, stock?

Thanks to all who can lend me a hand. We have a trip in 2 weeks to Colorado from Iowa. Time is of essence to fix what we need.

Jerry
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Old 05-25-2020, 03:36 AM   #2
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My 2015 Open road does not have a Banks air intake and it is loud 3th and 4 gears, in 2nd it screams, I. think this is normal for the V10 engine.

The previous owner installed Loadmaster sway bars in front and rear and I have minimal side to side sway.
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Old 05-25-2020, 05:07 AM   #3
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in addition to adding sway bar behind rear diff and a bigger sway bar up front get a track bar in rear. Also, consider a safe-t-plus up front. I had this all installed and have very little sway. all v10's are loud going up and down hills. check out ralliesrus.com he installs the whole set up. Dave
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Old 05-25-2020, 05:09 AM   #4
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Welcome to the world of motor homing....

The body roll on an F-53 is a common problem. There are many fixes. There are aftermarket "sway-bars" you can buy and add.

There is what is called a CHF, or "Cheap Handling Fix". This is accomplished by moving the sway bars and track bars to different attachment points on your chassis. There is a lot of info in regards to the CHF here on iRV2.

I purchased Sumo Springs, https://www.supersprings.com/products/sumosprings/. After a lot of research, I went with the Sumos to solve my body roll. They work as designs and I can take Interstate exit turns without almost coming to a stop. Not cheap but they make your ride more comfortable and controlled. They will not smooth the road out - it is not what they are designed to do.

Shocks - I believe Bilsteins were original equipment and still are. Have you had an eye ball on them? Are they the original shocks Are they leaking? If they need to be replaced - it may help your ride a tad.

Bottoming out. Mine does this too, even with the Sumos. Normally at high-way speeds when entering or exiting an over pass or other wavy part of the road. You really aren't bottoming out - just hitting the "stops" in the suspension. The one way I figured out to stop this was slow down when I saw the vehicle in front of me "bouncing" or just watch the pavement and armed with the knowledge engineers in America haven't figured out how to make a smooth transition from terra firma to a bridge structure.

Banks Air Intake System. People spend a lot of money to add these systems to their rig. It is suppose to add horse power to your V-10 and perhaps better milage. Before you remove it, why not look in to installing some noise insulation on the inside of your "Doghouse", the inside engine cover. I have read good results about this procedure.

Lots of squeaking is sometimes part of the experience. It is an unfortunate part the experience. Your rig is made of steel, wood, plastic, etc. all mounted on a truck chassis. And riding over roads not well maintained takes its toll unfortunately. One thing we learned as we go is proper packing of the cupboards and cabinets. Dishes, pots and pans and the like can add to the cacophony..... Also proper lube of the chassis may help in this area.

Also as second owner, did you get the maintenance records from the original owner? They can tell you a lot.

I am not sure if this is your first motor home or not, but if it is, I'd do some weekend camping to get to know ALL the areas of your motor home, plumbing, electrical, generator, chassis, house batteries, engine, to name a few.

A two week trip to Colorado sounds like a lot of fun bit should not be a learning experience.

Lots of good info here on iRV2 - good luck....

g
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Old 05-25-2020, 06:30 AM   #5
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1. Cheap handling fix (CHF). See the sticky thread in the Ford chassis forum. Add the new sway bar bushes mentioned in that thread.
2. Koni shocks. They make a big difference.
3. Sumo springs - front and rear
4. Track bar - front and rear
5. Hood insulation under the dog box cover
6. UltraRV (or 5 star) tuning
7. Let it rev! Just finished a 2000 mile trip through hills and plains. The V10 likes to rev. In the hills especially.
8. Brace for impact! There are some road surfaces where it just will hit hard. It's part of the deal.
9. Maybe a steering stabilizer ( there are mixed thoughts about these.)
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Old 05-25-2020, 08:03 AM   #6
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All good suggestions. You have shocks that are probably ten years old..the bushings in the front and rear suspension are probably shot as well.
Time to crawl under and do some inspections.
And yeah, the V-10s are screamers. On our first trip with our then Vista35, I thought the engine was going to come through the floor the first time it downshifted going up a hill.
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Old 05-25-2020, 03:23 PM   #7
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Man this is the info I needed! Thanks to all for the info Ill go start inspecting now! Appeciate all the info again! Thanks guys!
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Old 05-25-2020, 04:52 PM   #8
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looking at the koni shocks..how do i know if i have they Reyco or ZF IFS system?
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Old 05-26-2020, 04:36 AM   #9
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First weigh the coach and set tire pressure to tire manufacture spec. Overinflated tires give a jarring ride. Koni FSD all around, if you have the extra cash Quad Konis. Add a rear track bar plus another. CHF to R sway bar. Safety Plus SS. Sumo Springs F & R.
PS I have an extra set for the 24-26K chassis PM me if interested.
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:04 PM   #10
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did some poking around underneath..glad i did.. rear sway bar driver side mount is completely undone and slide to the side. bolts are missing as well. gonna need some new bushings for sure now and a set of bolts.
looked under the front end and noticed the outside shell of the shocks is rubbing pretty bad on the inside shell. welp..got some work to do i guess. and I looked at end links for the chf...guess I need to read more on that cause im kinda confused on that part. i dont see extra holes on the front but on the rear sway, i do see an extra hole thats closer to the front of the bar (going towards front of the MH). this weekend is definitely gonna be busy.
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:16 PM   #11
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The missing sway bar bolts and if needed the bushings are well discussed in the Ford Forum also. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/atte...ad-305445.html
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:38 PM   #12
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[QUOTE=Krim77;5282016]did some poking around underneath..glad i did.. rear sway bar driver side mount is completely undone and slide to the side. bolts are missing as well. gonna need some new bushings for sure now and a set of bolts.
looked under the front end and noticed the outside shell of the shocks is rubbing pretty bad on the inside shell. welp..got some work to do i guess. and I looked at end links for the chf...guess I need to read more on that cause im kinda confused on that part. i dont see extra holes on the front but on the rear sway, i do see an extra hole thats closer to the front of the bar (going towards front of the MH). this weekend is definitely gonna be busy.[/QUOTE

Those are where you need to move the link to. Be sure to use blue locktite on the rear sway bar bushing bolts, they are known to loosen again
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Old 05-28-2020, 10:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimRacer
Those are where you need to move the link to. Be sure to use blue locktite on the rear sway bar bushing bolts, they are known to loosen again
Awesome. Ill do that. i did not see any on the front. Guess that option isnt available then for the front sb. Thanks.
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Old 05-28-2020, 10:30 PM   #14
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I donít know what I was thinking or looking at the wrong thing. I found the extra holes for the front sb. So I just need to switch these to the opposite hole? I guess Iím just confirming that the po didnít already do it.
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