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Old 01-15-2022, 10:10 PM   #1
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Hot water not flowing at any faucet

Suddenly we are not getting any water from the hot side of all the faucets and shower at all. Cold side is running fine at all of them. Saw some old threads that suggested it might be a check valve at the water heater outlet. One suggested maybe there is also a check valve at the inlet to the water heater. Mine look like 90 degree brass elbows on both inlet and outlet with PEX tubing attached. They may have internal parts, but I can't tell. Either way, the outlet fitting is hard to get to and the inlet side looks like it would be impossible without removing the water heater. Any advice from those with experience or knowledge would be appreciated.
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Old 01-16-2022, 05:45 AM   #2
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Check the bypass valves to be sure that have not been switched. When winterizing RV's, these valves are turned keeping the antifreeze from entering the water heater.
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Old 01-16-2022, 05:57 AM   #3
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As well, you probably already have checked the obvious, but make sure you do have water in the hot water tank, check at its drain point. Turn the electric heat element off; if on & without water can damage your element.
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Old 01-16-2022, 06:00 AM   #4
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Here’s a link to a similar situation that was solved minutes ago. The outside ( wet bay ) hot water faucet was left in the on position. Hopefully this will solve your issue as well.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/201...ml#post6049830
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Old 01-16-2022, 08:55 AM   #5
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Here’s a link to a similar situation that was solved minutes ago. The outside ( wet bay ) hot water faucet was left in the on position. Hopefully this will solve your issue as well.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/201...ml#post6049830
2x that cliff...happened to me many years ago.Hot Faucet in wet bay open
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Old 01-16-2022, 08:59 AM   #6
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How cold is it where you are? As I was learning how to winter camp in Colorado my most difficult problem to solve was water freezing in the hot water pipes.
I eventually came to the conclusion that since the hot water heater was on the opposite side of the coach from the water pump the lines had to reach across the coach in an unheated area under the floor. They would freeze during the colder nights.
I keep the water bay where the pump is heated with a 125 watt heat lamp. I added a 75 watt heat lamp to the smaller area behind the hot water heater which seems to have solved the no hot water in the morning problem. Both the lamps are automatically controlled by ThermoCube thermistor switches.
Since the toilet plumbing and the shower plumbing are located against the outer walls I keep the doors open to warm those pipes at night.
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Old 01-16-2022, 09:10 AM   #7
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"Suddenly we are not getting any water from the hot side of all the faucets and shower at all"

"Suddenly"---suggests no change in valving at water heater tank.
"Any Water"---suggests no flow, not that the flow is cold/luke warm

Any water from hot side.......that is the WH Tank Hot out Check Valve. It has failed.

It is internal to the 'nipple' screwed into the WH Tank hot out port

Can you post a picture on WH Tank Hot out fitting/line?
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Old 01-16-2022, 06:45 PM   #8
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Thanks for your help

Old-Biscuit, I think you may have nailed it. I am attaching a picture of the 90 degree brass fitting at the water heater outlet. I have tapped on the side of it but if there is a stuck check valve inside, it hasn't opened. I ordered some PEX tools today. Will have to cut the line to have any chance of getting the fitting out. Do you think there is a check valve in there?
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Old 01-16-2022, 07:53 PM   #9
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Not in that 90* fitting on the tank...........
What is the other brass fitting above (obscured by the ducting)?


Where is the BYPASS valve?
Could have check valve installed there
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Old 01-16-2022, 10:44 PM   #10
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Is this the water heater out check valve?

Old-Biscuit, the fitting you asked about is another 90 degree elbow, but about 12" beyond the elbow, laying on top of the water heater under a large bundle of wires was what might be the check valve we are looking for. See the attached picture. Is that it?

If so, do you know what kind of threads they are? If I can't find a check valve locally, could I sub a 1/2" MIP nipple to get by until I find a new check valve?
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Old 01-17-2022, 06:54 AM   #11
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That looks like the check valve to me. Mine is under the water heater access hatch under the rear sink and tough to get to as you can only use one hand. I was in there recently to fix my gas side of the water heater. While you are in there, find the controller for the gas side and tie it down. I found mine hanging by the wires over the side of the water heater tank.

Are you the original owner? It looks like it has been changed previously as Tiffin uses a white compound to seal the threads. The check valve is readily available on Amazon.
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Old 01-17-2022, 08:38 AM   #12
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YEP...that is the check valve

S/B 1/2" MPTxMPT threads (Male Pipe Threads)


**you can just gut the internals and use it until you get another one (just small clip in one end then everything slips out the other end)
Clip/plastic plunger---spring/o-ring assembly


****Check valve used in place of shutoff valve and only needed when 'winterizing' (stop backflow of anti-freeze into tank)
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Old 01-17-2022, 06:05 PM   #13
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YEP...that is the check valve

S/B 1/2" MPTxMPT threads (Male Pipe Threads)


**you can just gut the internals and use it until you get another one (just small clip in one end then everything slips out the other end)
Clip/plastic plunger---spring/o-ring assembly


****Check valve used in place of shutoff valve and only needed when 'winterizing' (stop backflow of anti-freeze into tank)


I’ve actually thought about just using a ball valve instead. Think it would be more reliable in the long run.
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Old 01-17-2022, 07:25 PM   #14
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I prefer shutoff valves vs check valves and IF you have ready access I would install a shutoff in place of that check valve
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