The "Store" function went intermittent, leading me to figure out how to retract the jacks manually. It's probably possible to have made it more awkward, but they'd have had to work at it!
I found this thread and ordered this still-available assortment last week. Today, I pulled my 625 panel and replaced the "Store" switch. One of the switches in the assortment was a perfect fit! "Store" works again as it should. As a bonus, I re-flowed the solder joints for the Store indicator LED and it now works as well.
Many, many thanks to smartin for this post and to iRV2:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/hwh...el-421808.html
(I'm apparently not allowed to reply to that post because it's 487 days old.)
The control panel cover is worn through over several switches. HWH will sell me a new Lexan cover for $12 and change. It'll be on order as soon as they call back (which might be days since they are running a skeleton crew at present). That will complete the repair.
A couple of pointers to anyone hesitant (but willing) to try this.
There are two circuit boards. They are retained against the top of the control panel with six screws, and spacers are placed between the two boards. Once the screws are removed, there are two connectors at one end. Gently separate the two boards at the connectors to get access to the back side of the upper board.
When you unsolder the switch, it's any effective technique to torque the switch around the pins (just push sideways on the button) and work on the two joints on one side alternately. Each time you heat one, you will feel the switch move a bit. *Let the circuit board cool every couple of times you heat the two pads*. This will prevent the pads from separating from the board. Also, use an appropriate medium-powered pencil soldering iron.
Once the first two leads are free, repeat the process with the other two.
When the switch has been removed, the holes through the board will be blocked by solder. You can use a desoldering tool if you have one, wicking copper, or use an old trick. The trick is to heat a pad, then *quickly* remove the soldering iron and *immediately* blow *hard* through the hole to clear the solder. Rinse and repeat until the four holes are clear and the new switch can be soldered into place.
Once you are ready to reassemble, hold the lower board sideways. Reinsert the screws, and put the spacers on the screws. Tilt the board toward the heads of the screws, and push them into the spacers. Then, it will be easy (easier, anyway) to line up the two boards and get the screws through them both while pushing the connectors back together. It will seem like two hands are not enough and three is too many, but it will work.