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Old 09-19-2021, 06:16 AM   #1
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No pwer to the fuse box that houses the ignition and instrument panel fuses

Have a 2003 Tiffin Allegro Open Road Class A with an 8.1 Vortex motor and Workhouse chassis. We went into a gas station and lost power. A mechanic stated no power was going to the fuse box that had the ignition and instrument panel fuses. He temporary fixed it by running another wire from a different power source to the fuse box. I want to put the RV back to the way it was. Does anyone know what could have interrupted the power to the ignition instrument fuse box? Things went bad at the exact time when shifting from drive to park. Shifting was very difficult.
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:27 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum.

You are joining a good group of friends here with good information to share. Read the various threads here and ask questions as they come up or add information if you can. Sorry I cannot answer your question but do check out the Tiffin owners thread here on this board. You can also Call Tiffin during working hours and talk to a tech there who can probably help.

Good luck and enjoy the adventure!
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:48 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slbaker22 View Post
Have a 2003 Tiffin Allegro Open Road Class A with an 8.1 Vortex motor and Workhouse chassis. We went into a gas station and lost power. A mechanic stated no power was going to the fuse box that had the ignition and instrument panel fuses. He temporary fixed it by running another wire from a different power source to the fuse box. I want to put the RV back to the way it was. Does anyone know what could have interrupted the power to the ignition instrument fuse box? Things went bad at the exact time when shifting from drive to park. Shifting was very difficult.
Since this is basically just a Chevy truck chassis, there is probably a fusible link in the main power line.

Two reasons they fail. Of course the first is an overload. The second is age/corrosion. Most any good truck mechanic can replace it. The best way is to buy a factory or OEM replacement line that is manufactured with the fusible link in it. The second, (and we repaired this many times on older cars) is to buy a fusible link, find the one in the main power line and splice it in.

The main thing is to put the correct size in. If it calls for 30 amp, don’t put a 50 amp in. If it fails on the correct size then you have other problems.

The main thing is you want the main power fused so in the event of a malfunction (usually a short) it does not overload and start fire.

It is possible there are other causes but this is where I would start.
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:51 AM   #4
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined us!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 09-19-2021, 10:08 AM   #5
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That is great information. Do you know where the fusible like would be located?
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:45 PM   #6
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That is great information. Do you know where the fusible like would be located?
Not specifically, but if a mechanic found where it connects to the main ignition block you can trace it back from there. Sometimes they come straight from the battery and go to the main ignition fuse panel. The fusible link is the only protection from the heavy wire, probably an 8 or 6 gauge to handle what might be 50 amps to the main fuse panel. If a mechanic put a temporary wire in, he must have found the main input to the fuse block.

As I said, the main will be larger that the rest of the smaller wires that run the 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, and 30 amp accessories. If you can physically trace it with your hand, follow it down and you will find a short section, 1-2 inches that is larger than the wire and looks different. Often you can see it is burnt. Or if you wiggle it it might break off in your hands. If you can't get the exact Chevy part, you can buy universal ones and put whatever connectors you need need on it.

Again, as I said. It is the only protection from battery power to the ignition block. It is usually close as possible to the battery. There may also be a heavy wire that goes down to a junction block, that has several feeds coming off it. But that would be very short, as in this case there would be no protection from the battery to the junction block. Normally you can find it on the firewall. It also may be enclosed in a plastic wire loom. Hence if you can trace it back from the ignition block, you might find it in that loom. Rarely, (but I have seen it) it is not in a loom with any other wires.
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:56 PM   #7
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Ok , we'll need to know if your Workhorse chassis is a P-32 or a W series .

The P-32 chassis have issues with internal contacts in the ignition switch burning up due to overloading from the additional wiring added by the coach manufacturer .
Workhorse even released a relay and wiring package to deal with the condition .

Poor power to the gearshift interlock solenoid could explain the hard shifting.
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