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Old 04-27-2013, 12:36 PM   #15
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The A/C thermostat, if it is a 5 button CCC control requires 12 VDC to power up and display. It has no 120 VAC running through it.

Since your AB is much different than my Monaco, the only suggestion I have is to focus on your 12 VDC system to see where the fault is located.

Those numbers down into the 9, 10 and 11 VDC do not sound kosher to me. Your Float voltage should be 13.5 - 13.7 or so. With the converter turned off, the voltage should be 12. 6 -12.7 or so.

Your battery bank should not drop significantly until you put a lot of loads on it and then again the battery bank should last hours before reaching the 50% SOC or about 12.0 - 12.2 level.

Your 12 VDC is dropping way too quickly.

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Old 04-27-2013, 01:43 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
Those numbers down into the 9, 10 and 11 VDC do not sound kosher to me. Your Float voltage should be 13.5 - 13.7 or so. With the converter turned off, the voltage should be 12. 6 -12.7 or so.

Your battery bank should not drop significantly until you put a lot of loads on it and then again the battery bank should last hours before reaching the 50% SOC or about 12.0 - 12.2 level.

Your 12 VDC is dropping way too quickly.

Dr4Fiilm ----- Richard
The house batteries are holding at least 12.4 vdc with no shore power. But the thermostat voltage drops as I add load. I would agree that the converter should float higher than 13-13.4 volts. Right now it 13.2 floating. But why would the stat voltage read under house voltage any under circumstance and then fall off dramatically from the house VDC as more load is applied with VDC staying at least 12.4 for all other circuits?
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:30 PM   #17
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Hi Ho: Interesting problem. When the stat voltage reads low either the positive side is low or the ground side doesn't stay at ground potential. There a couple of things you could try. Since the voltage depends on current from other devices, one possibility is that the stat ground is not really ground but is some potential above ground. This might be caused by a high impedance for the ground circuit. The fact that the battery voltage doesn't fall just means that its ground is really ground.

Anyway, why don't you supply another ground to the stat that you know is actually at chassis ground potential and see what happens. Since this should be a ground anyway it certainly can't hurt. If this dosen't help, you could do the same thing with the positive terminal. However since it depends on current flow from other devices, my guess is that it is on the ground side.

If supplying a "real" ground helps you could try to find out why the stat ground isn't really a good ground or simply leave a second ground wire connected.

Anyway, good luck. Let us know what it turns out to be.
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:48 PM   #18
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As others have posted, it sounds like the stat is getting it's ground through the lights.



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Old 04-28-2013, 06:11 AM   #19
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Dirko: I'm going to try your suggestions maybe tomorrow when my shot trip is over. I've gone through the Tiffin supplied electrical schematics but unless I missed it the stat power location is not shown. Regardless I can always add a new ground. I follow up with my results. Thanks everyone for the ideas.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:37 AM   #20
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Try to follow your wires and find a connector. Carefully measure at that connector. Grab an extension cord and plug it in to one of the 110 volt outlets. I only want you to use the ground lead for your voltmeter. Forget about any 110 volt issues. Just use the extension cord as a convenient ground wire supply.

Or run a long wire from the batteries so you have a good ground point.

Now take your measurement on both the hot and ground side of any wiring harness plugs the thermostat is connected to.

Here is what I think you have. A bad connection is not only dropping your voltage it is causing a bad ground return.

If you find voltage on the ground side of the thermostat you have a bad ground. Since you have low voltage you already have a bad source line.

Turning on lights making it work could indeed be a sneak path and wll not make sense to a non tech person.

Fixing the obvious first will usually cause the wierd symptoms to go away. The obvious being low voltage to something that draws very little current and should not be loading down the supply.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:40 AM   #21
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Dirko's idea is a great one.

I would run a 12 VDC positive AND negative wire directly from a known good battery. Maybe a spare or you could connect it to your car battery.

Use that harness to power the thermostat and see what happens. I would bet you will find a big difference.

If true, then when troubleshooting, you need to find which source is the problem, either the positive or negative wire or both. Usually, it ends up to be the negative.

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Old 04-28-2013, 07:39 PM   #22
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YC1, Dr4Film, Dirko and all that gave suggestions-Thank you. I really appreciate the trouble shooting ideas. Within the next few days I'll try what you suggest(s). Pretty sure I can get the fix done with these ideas. Greatly appreciated!
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:22 AM   #23
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Thanks everyone. I ran a new ground and that took care of the problem. I would have preferred to trace the stat wire's but that would have required a fair amount of extra work. Thank you for all the ideas/suggestions.
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