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Old 09-11-2021, 10:22 AM   #1
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Spyder & Lithium Batteries

I am in the process of switching out stock gc2 6volts with 100 amp lithium. Called Spyder and they said flat out they don't support lithium charging. I am concerned about burning out my alternator when I am driving as it tries to charge the Lithium batteries, which would just absorb as much power as possible when low, I want to limit the voltage from the alternator. I do have Victron DC to DC charger I can install that should prevent this, but I can't seem to find where the power from the alternator is routed.
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Old 09-11-2021, 11:38 AM   #2
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First off, Welcome to IRV2!

So if Spyder says they don't support charging Lithium batteries how do you plan to keep them charged on shore power? All battery maintenance is through the Spyder system on the newer coaches.
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Old 09-11-2021, 11:42 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by MR.Roboto View Post
I am in the process of switching out stock gc2 6volts with 100 amp lithium. Called Spyder and they said flat out they don't support lithium charging. I am concerned about burning out my alternator when I am driving as it tries to charge the Lithium batteries, which would just absorb as much power as possible when low, I want to limit the voltage from the alternator. I do have Victron DC to DC charger I can install that should prevent this, but I can't seem to find where the power from the alternator is routed.
Alternator output power may be going to the positive terminal on the starter. But you don't want to disturb that. That charges the chassis battery and supports chassis functions.

Your battery to battery charger goes in place of your isolation/boost solenoid.
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Old 09-11-2021, 12:37 PM   #4
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First off, Welcome to IRV2!

So if Spyder says they don't support charging Lithium batteries how do you plan to keep them charged on shore power? All battery maintenance is through the Spyder system on the newer coaches.
Hi Lt. Dan,
I removed the 4- 6v batteries under the stairs, moved the positive and negative cabled to the first compartment passenger side that has solar prep and inverter and battery disconnect and hooked up one BB 100Amp Lithium. I then reprogrammed the MS2012 inverter to support Lithium per Magnum and BB specs. It is reading 14.57volts for last week. I will add another 3 BB 100 Amps today. The power from Alternator is whats concerning me.
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Old 09-11-2021, 12:42 PM   #5
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Alternator output power may be going to the positive terminal on the starter. But you don't want to disturb that. That charges the chassis battery and supports chassis functions.

Your battery to battery charger goes in place of your isolation/boost solenoid.
Yup. I just need to know where to find that red positive wire from Alternator? I see on the battery disconnect switch a chassis breaker next to the battery disconnect.
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Old 09-13-2021, 02:32 PM   #6
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I installed 24 cells to make a 1680 amp hour battery bank in my 2010 Allegro Bus. I used a Lithium Battery Isolation Manager LI-Bim 225. It connects to the alternator and the chassis batterys at the boost solenoid. It allows the alt to charge for a few min then disconnects for a few min then connects again if the batterys need charging. Just finished 6000 mile trip with no issues. By the way the 1680 battery bank fit on the 6 6volt slide with some modification.
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Old 09-18-2021, 04:29 PM   #7
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I installed 24 cells to make a 1680 amp hour battery bank in my 2010 Allegro Bus. I used a Lithium Battery Isolation Manager LI-Bim 225. It connects to the alternator and the chassis batterys at the boost solenoid. It allows the alt to charge for a few min then disconnects for a few min then connects again if the batterys need charging. Just finished 6000 mile trip with no issues. By the way the 1680 battery bank fit on the 6 6volt slide with some modification.
Where did you find the Boost Charge Solenoid? I hope it is not behind the battery disconnect switch, that is not an easy access panel to remove in first bay P/S on OpenRoad 36 LA.
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Old 09-18-2021, 04:31 PM   #8
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Alternator output power may be going to the positive terminal on the starter. But you don't want to disturb that. That charges the chassis battery and supports chassis functions.

Your battery to battery charger goes in place of your isolation/boost solenoid.
I will need to pull the 36 LA out of the barn, It is a super tight fit to access the front of chassis. Any idea where I may find the Boost Charge Solenoid?
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Old 09-21-2021, 07:39 PM   #9
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We have two LifeBlue 200ah lithium batteries installed last October. In our 2019 Red 37pa. I called Spader before the installation and they said it should have no issues. We full time so we are on either shore or solar. We have camped for two months without hook ups in Colorado this summer. Since installing in Texas last October we have traveled to the southeast then back west to Colorado. I see no issues except one. The display clocks on the convection microwave and the coffee maker looses about 10 minutes per week when on solar only. On shore the clocks keep time.
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Old 09-22-2021, 06:21 AM   #10
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apologies for the late reply. I do not know where the solenoid is on your unit. On my Allegro Bus it is in the right rear compartment. you may have to follow the cable from the house battery until you find it.
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Old 09-22-2021, 08:06 AM   #11
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Just call Tiffin and ask them. They’re always very helpful.
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Old 09-22-2021, 08:54 AM   #12
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Once you find that "merge solonoid" you should replace it with an LBIM225. I did that two years ago and it has worked out perfectly. No more wondering about the chassis battery charging on shore-power either. -Bill
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Old 10-02-2021, 05:45 PM   #13
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Sterling power systems has an excellent video on what Lithium batteries can do to an alternator. The DC to DC charger is going to be my choice. The Li-BIM225 appears to be able to allow the alternator to run at full output for up to 15 minutes. This is not good if you are idling and driving slow in the morning with a lower state of charge in your batteries.
Some, Phil Farley, seem to be getting by with six BB batteries and doing just fine with the battery replacement and stock alternator charging. Until I get my coach to work on, all I have to go on is past experience and of course YouTube.
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Old 10-03-2021, 06:00 AM   #14
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Sterling power systems has an excellent video on what Lithium batteries can do to an alternator. The DC to DC charger is going to be my choice. The Li-BIM225 appears to be able to allow the alternator to run at full output for up to 15 minutes. This is not good if you are idling and driving slow in the morning with a lower state of charge in your batteries.
Some, Phil Farley, seem to be getting by with six BB batteries and doing just fine with the battery replacement and stock alternator charging. Until I get my coach to work on, all I have to go on is past experience and of course YouTube.
I agree and ended up disconnecting the Merge Solenoid behind the disconnect panel and I am in the process of moving the merge solenoid chassis battery lead (which isn't doing anything now) to the Victron DC/DC charger. I went with the 18 Amp version, it was affordable and I didn't really want more than 18 Amps tasking the alternator.
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