Community Forums

JimLuk · 12-22-2020, 05:22 PM

I am trying to figure out which one to buy or find out if there are recommendations / to augment what comes with TIFFIN RVs... I have read that the Progressive with 3,580J of protection is more that adequate vs 4,200J for the Surge Guard 34951. Both provide life time warranty on their "surge protector". The Surge Guard 34951 also includes no cost "inside the rig" protection for devices on the rig... The 34951 also offers a remote "WIFI" monitor that an be viewed from within the rig for an additional $50. Does anyone have any thoughts or trade-offs would be very helpful. Thanks, we have a 40IP on order with a Feb 15 delivery date. Can't wait.... Thanks, Jim PS.. we all hope this Thor Industries acquisition works out as advertised....

vsheetz · 12-22-2020, 05:41 PM

Both good units. The surge rating difference matters little. Progressive is widely used and a long reputation for goid customer service. The wireless inside display is compelling. The inward looking feature is looking for a open neutral, as I understand it - not a big deal imho, moreso a marketing bullet point.

I have hardwired Progressive EMS plus a portable Hughes watchdog surge only at the pedustal. Belt and suspenders protection. Wireless bluetooth voltage / amps monitoring to my phone. Monitoring at the pedistal, can use to check pedistal befire placing the coach on a site, etc.

Nildecaf · 12-22-2020, 06:23 PM

We have a Surge Guard 34850 (prior version of 34950) and took a hit at a campground that partially melted a 50 to 30A dogbone. No damage to our Tiffin or the Surge Guard.

TomsMaHauL · 12-22-2020, 07:01 PM

The Surge Guard that came in my 36UA is good against high voltage, but not so good meeting a challenge of low voltage. It's main function is to be an automatic transfer switch (works very well as an ATS). I've had a portable Surge Guard for over a decade that has served us well. Currently, I use the Hughes Power Watch Dog smart power protection. It has very good high and low voltage protection... & more. The free smart phone app that reads volts and amps on each 50 amp line, and provides on going power usage readings, works very well within 100 feet of the pedestal. My rv surge protection story, with photos of my old portable Surge Guard (now a standby/backup), the current onboard Surge Guard transfer switch and the current portable Power WatchDog... HERE. The WatchDog has saved us once (so far) because of miss-wired power pedestal. On the WatchDog, if there's ever a surge, it doesn't take out the entire unit. There's a surge module that is replaceable, and no need to send back an entire surge protection device, or purchase a new one.

Larry F. · 12-22-2020, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomsMaHauL

The Surge Guard that came in my 36UA is good against high voltage, but not so good meeting a challenge of low voltage. It's main function is to be an automatic transfer switch (works very well as an ATS). I've had a portable Surge Guard for over a decade that has served us well. Currently, I use the Hughes Power Watch Dog smart power protection. It has very good high and low voltage protection... & more. The free smart phone app that reads volts and amps on each 50 amp line, and provides on going power usage readings, works very well within 100 feet of the pedestal. My rv surge protection story, with photos of my old portable Surge Guard (now a standby/backup), the current onboard Surge Guard transfer switch and the current portable Power WatchDog... HERE. The WatchDog has saved us once (so far) because of miss-wired power pedestal. On the WatchDog, if there's ever a surge, it doesn't take out the entire unit. There's a surge module that is replaceable, and no need to send back an entire surge protection device, or purchase a new one.

Ditto Tom's post - My Progressive unit failed and I replaced it with the Watchdog. I put mine in the power bay along with my autoformer.

Laserchrome · 12-23-2020, 09:08 PM

I was also considering either the Progressive (Hardwired) or the Highes Autoformer. Think I will go with the portable as well. My concern was that it would grow legs and walk away when i wasn't around. Harder with the hardwired unit.
I was also planning on a Hughes Voltage Booster (hardwired) to eliminate low voltage and keep things running smoothly. Anyone using both units? Getting ready for my 1st trip and need to get her outfitted.

JohnCZ · 12-23-2020, 09:59 PM

There is a PI EMS PT50C for sale here in the classifieds. I'm very happy with mine.

Larry F. · 12-23-2020, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Laserchrome

I was also considering either the Progressive (Hardwired) or the Highes Autoformer. Think I will go with the portable as well. My concern was that it would grow legs and walk away when i wasn't around. Harder with the hardwired unit.
I was also planning on a Hughes Voltage Booster (hardwired) to eliminate low voltage and keep things running smoothly. Anyone using both units? Getting ready for my 1st trip and need to get her outfitted.

I use both 100 percent of the time. The attached diagram is out of date as I use a Hughes Power Watchdog since my old Progressive unit died. All units except the cord

are in the power bay. I added 50 amp receptacles and a patch cord to tie everything together. This lets me remove any or all items if needed and go straight to the transfer switch.

JimLuk · 12-24-2020, 09:43 AM

Boy this seems like a complex issue and it appears to me that the solution may be a combination of units... I like the HUGHES Watchdog 50A (PWD50-EPO) as it addresses the low voltage issue less than 104V, and bluetooth capability... Does the complete solution require a combination of products or am I over engineering the solution? Whatever I get will be connecting to my new Tiffin 40IP. Any thoughts.

Driveby · 12-24-2020, 09:47 AM

Potentially ignorant question coming...

When on 30amp service I presume only 1 leg is lit up and functional? Anyone have experience with a 50amp autoformer on 30amp service? Assume the coach EMS is set to 30amp as applicable (IE Spyder set to 30)

JohnCZ · 12-24-2020, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driveby

Potentially ignorant question coming...

When on 30amp service I presume only 1 leg is lit up and functional? Anyone have experience with a 50amp autoformer on 30amp service? Assume the coach EMS is set to 30amp as applicable (IE Spyder set to 30)

When plugged into a 30 amp service, your adapter will send power to both legs, Line 1 and Line 2 on your 50 amp system. You are still limited to 30 amps for the combined loads. What I like about an EMS like the PI EMS-PT50 is that it shows the load that is on both Line 1 and Line 2. This helps with learning what loads are on each Line, and how to manage them to keep the total draw less than 30 amps (when on that service) and keep voltage on each leg safely above 104 volts (the voltage where PI will shutdown).
Can't speak for an autoformer, don't use one and won't be spending for one.

JohnCZ · 12-24-2020, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driveby

Potentially ignorant question coming...

When on 30amp service I presume only 1 leg is lit up and functional? Anyone have experience with a 50amp autoformer on 30amp service? Assume the coach EMS is set to 30amp as applicable (IE Spyder set to 30)

On here, as most of us are ever-learning, there are no ignorant questions.
The responses to some of the questions, however....

puttin · 12-24-2020, 10:43 AM

I use only the Autoformer. It's the new version with the replaceable surge module. In most places, it's not surges that are the most common problem, it's low voltage. So, in my opinion, the Autoformer makes more sense. In a low voltage instance, the Surge Guard and the Progressive units will shut off your power....but won't restore it. This happened to us in the summer. Park voltage sagged and then went off. It was hours until we returned- to an overheated rv. Lucky the fridge switched to gas.

JohnCZ · 12-24-2020, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by puttin

I use only the Autoformer. It's the new version with the replaceable surge module. In most places, it's not surges that are the most common problem, it's low voltage. So, in my opinion, the Autoformer makes more sense. In a low voltage instance, the Surge Guard and the Progressive units will shut off your power....but won't restore it. This happened to us in the summer. Park voltage sagged and then went off. It was hours until we returned- to an overheated rv. Lucky the fridge switched to gas.

Are you sure the PI and Surge Guard will not reset after a voltage dip? I'm pretty sure that when my PI has tripped on low voltage, it has reset after a set number of minutes, and voltage back over 104.
Per the PI Instruction Manual, this time delay is "2 minutes and 16 seconds".
The PE Error Code 6 will still appear until the unit is disconnected and reconnected. But, power is restored.