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Old 03-19-2019, 04:32 PM   #1
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Tiffin Wayfarer Chassis House to Chassis Battery Switch

Is there a battery boost or other type of switch somewhere that will allow house battery connectivity to the Sprinter chassis battery to start the engine if that battery is dead? I'm not seeing anything on the dash or elsewhere. Thanks in advance to anyone that can help!
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Old 03-20-2019, 12:57 PM   #2
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Supposed to connect when key is turned to on such that alternator can also charge house batteries. Solenoid under passenger seat.

I wish there was a switch though. I plan to replace the solenoid on my Wayfarer with a Lithium Battery Isolation Manager and add a switch to the dash next week or week after.

Best,
-Mark
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Old 03-20-2019, 08:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkMaxPayne View Post
Supposed to connect when key is turned to on such that alternator can also charge house batteries. Solenoid under passenger seat.

I wish there was a switch though. I plan to replace the solenoid on my Wayfarer with a Lithium Battery Isolation Manager and add a switch to the dash next week or week after.

Best,
-Mark
Thanks Mark! Please let me know how that goes....would be interested in doing same.

Best regards,
Daryl
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Old 03-22-2019, 09:57 AM   #4
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I have a 2019 Wayfarer. There is a rocker switch under the passenger seat labeled power boost, on/off. I've had to use it a couple of times.
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:11 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennish2024 View Post
I have a 2019 Wayfarer. There is a rocker switch under the passenger seat labeled power boost, on/off. I've had to use it a couple of times.
That's awesome. Glad to hear they are doing that now. Thanks for sharing. Mine was built in early 2018 so no joy. :(

That said, since I swapped my house batteries out for Lithium, I still need to add a LBIM and switch as to not to eventually burn out the alternator given Lithium can gulp everything alternator throws at it. I picked up a momentary on switch for the signal line on the LBIM that should plug into a Sprinter chassis dash blank. Fingers crossed...

Best,
-Mark
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Old 03-22-2019, 12:40 PM   #6
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Okay, LBIM? So far I think I got Lithium Battery I M. Can't come up with the IM portion.

GP Electric just came out with a new lithium/solar controller which is on order now.

Battle Born recommended that I upgrade the 30 amp converter to the 60 amp lithium converter (faster charge rate), that's on order also.

Up until now I thought I had got the coach dialed in, then comes LBIM.
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:18 PM   #7
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Okay, LBIM? So far I think I got Lithium Battery I M. Can't come up with the IM portion.
Isolation Manager. What it does is connect your house battery for 15 minutes every 35 minutes. That means that the BIM will connect for 15 minutes, disconnect for 20 minutes, and repeat this cycle until the house battery is charged while the engine is running. This prevents Lithium house batteries from overloading the alternator when charging from it vs from solar or generator.

In my 2018 it is currently always connected via solenoid if key is in on position.

Best,
-Mark
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Old 04-09-2019, 04:48 PM   #8
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Mark, may I ask why you're choosing the LBIM instead of the Sterling Power Battery to Battery charger.

The reason I ask is I have pretty much the same set up as you and I am being advised to get the Sterling Power set up not the IBIM since I only have two coach batteries. It's a $408 vs $172 dollar decision (fewer batteries more $$).

Also, is the alternator in eminent danger or it's life may be shortened somewhat?

Thanks.
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:44 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by dennish2024 View Post
Mark, may I ask why you're choosing the LBIM instead of the Sterling Power Battery to Battery charger.

The reason I ask is I have pretty much the same set up as you and I am being advised to get the Sterling Power set up not the IBIM since I only have two coach batteries. It's a $408 vs $172 dollar decision (fewer batteries more $$).

Also, is the alternator in eminent danger or it's life may be shortened somewhat?

Thanks.
Finished my install. The LBIM is a simple solution and much cheaper than the Sterling Power setup, which appears to be overkill for our simple configuration. I also have 2 coach lithium batteries. All the LBIM does is allow your alternator to charge the batteries, disconnect to give your alternator a rest, reconnect for a bit to continue charging, disconnect for another rest, rinse, repeat, etc. If you have 3 or more lithium batteries, Battle Born does recommend other solutions than the simple LBIM. I'd call Battle Born; they are VERY helpful.

LBIM was a very simple install under passenger seat right next to the solenoid that was already there that tries to join the house and chassis battery circuits anytime the key is turned on. Most folks replace the solenoid, but I chose to chain them for my application (same result, just adds a level of redundancy). I put a momentary switch in my dash in one of the left hand blanks to force a connection, overriding what it wants to do in terms of connect/disconect cycling, when I press and hold the button.

If you've ran your lithium batteries down, they could draw on the alternator for too long, shortening its life given they'll suck in everything alternator can produce (unlike lead batteries). Some have even burned out their alternators. If you have good solar panels or generator to recharge, or a single lithium battery, it may not be a concern. Call me Saftey Sid.

Best,
-Mark
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Old 04-10-2019, 01:33 PM   #10
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Hi Mark, as always thanks for your input. I was talking to BB re: LIBM. They recommended the Sterling battery charger which surprised me since i figured you were talking to them about what you wanted to do and ended up with the LIBM. I probably will end up doing the LIBM also.

I was concerned about doing harm to the alternator (220 amp). Their response was no harm to the alt. Without the LIBM the only thing that might happen is I could reduce the cycles from 5000 to 3000 reducing battery life.

Again thanks.
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Old 04-11-2019, 08:40 AM   #11
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It's been a while since BB and I have talked. Perhaps recommendations have changed. For me, my batteries primarily charge on solar. Other than that maybe the Onan diesel generator. By the time I start my Sprinter chassis they are often already near or at full charge. Even while driving the solar is charging them unless I'm under a canopy or in really bad weather. Glad BB helped with a recommendation that is right for your solution.

Update: It appears, since my original purchase, they've added both DC to DC chargers as well as the new Progressive Dynamics replacement converters for Lithium to their online store.

As I mentioned, they are extremely helpful. Enjoy!!!

Best,
-Mark
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Old 04-12-2019, 11:23 AM   #12
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I ended up getting the Progressive 60 amp lithium converter from BB. Very easy install it slides right out and in, attach five wires, done.

Again thanks for your wisdom.
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Old 04-12-2019, 02:10 PM   #13
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Glad to help. Too funny. I just ordered the Progressive Dynamics Lithium upgrade module myself yesterday as I was checking out the recent updates to thier online store. The Battle Born batteries are designed to just drop in as-is for the most part due to how their built-in BMS works. But even faster charging while connected to shore power or generator? Oh my!!! Hard to pass that up! Great minds must think alike!

Enjoy!
-Mark
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:25 PM   #14
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Hello folks. I am very interested in the Lithium conversion, but haven't pulled the trigger due to the cost and not having a full understanding of components needed.
MarkMaxPayne - dennish2024 - I hope you can give me some guidance:
I have the Wayfarer with the battery boost button under the passenger seat with the Cole Hersee battery combiner. I really like having that function and would like to keep it. Do you believe the Cole Hersee can continue to be used or will it have to be removed? Would it be possible to install the battery to battery charger down stream from the CH battery combiner (ie between it and the house batteries)? Regarding the Progressive Dynamics converter did you order PD4060LI? Is there anything other components needed to make the lithium conversion work properly?
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