Typical Phaeton 40 issues

[Singlefin]

Good Day all,
Looking for feedback on what typical issues to look for on 2015/2016 Phaeton QBH and AH models.

Looking closely at 3 different coaches, 2015 40 AH with 26,000 miles, 2015 QBH with 53,000 mi, and 2015 36 GH with 26,000. We like the floorpans on each. The AH and the GH are almost perfect condition at same price, the QBH is needs TLC but priced at $20,000 less.

Thanks for any guidance you might have.

Bob

[Warhorse6]

I had a 2016 qbh. Loved the coach but kept having inverter challenges. That’s the one thing I would really check closely. If original tires, probably close to aging out, which will be a 4-6k bill to replace. I’d check the date stamp on the tires. If original batteries, might also be getting close to end of life. Make sure you check the dash ac to ensure it blows cold air. Same for roof units. Also, if you have an aquahot, check not only the hot water function but also the heat. Could probably go on, but those are the big things I’d look at. Best wishes on whatever you decide.

[wingnut60]

Bought a 16 QBH in Jan 20. Had a pro inspection done, allowed me lots of leverage on the sale terms. So far, only routine maintenance + one jack sensor had to be replaced. Very livable floorplan. We also had a desk/drawers put in between the dinette/fireplace, and the sleeper sofa replaced with power theater seats. 22k miles later, it is doing fine. 8.5-9.0 mpg.
Depending on previous care, might be due tires, trans maintenance.

[Singlefin]

Originally Posted by wingnut60

Bought a 16 QBH in Jan 20. Had a pro inspection done, allowed me lots of leverage on the sale terms. So far, only routine maintenance + one jack sensor had to be replaced. Very livable floorplan. We also had a desk/drawers put in between the dinette/fireplace, and the sleeper sofa replaced with power theater seats. 22k miles later, it is doing fine. 8.5-9.0 mpg.
Depending on previous care, might be due tires, trans maintenance.

Thanks Wingnut60. This is very helpful.
Curious, where did you have the furnishings changed out and do you mind sharing the cost?
There is a number of models in various conditions at different costs and to get exactly what we want might mean having to change out the 2 chair dinette to a booth.
Thanks again.

[Singlefin]

Originally Posted by Warhorse6

I had a 2016 qbh. Loved the coach but kept having inverter challenges. That’s the one thing I would really check closely. If original tires, probably close to aging out, which will be a 4-6k bill to replace. I’d check the date stamp on the tires. If original batteries, might also be getting close to end of life. Make sure you check the dash ac to ensure it blows cold air. Same for roof units. Also, if you have an aquahot, check not only the hot water function but also the heat. Could probably go on, but those are the big things I’d look at. Best wishes on whatever you decide.

We are looking closely at a 2018 40QKH that according to the owner does not have AquaHot but didn't know the brand nor the full extent of its functions. I was surprised as I thought all Phaetons in this model had AquaHot.
Any idea about an alternate system and feedback on this?
Thanks!

[wingnut60]

We never used the single recliner that sat between the dinette and fireplace. Sold it soon after getting the coach. $200. Had Cody Poores in RB build in double drawers/matching countertop there. $1100.
Had Nichols replace carpet everywhere but around bed frame. $300 labor/$900 carpet. Later took sleeper sofa out, sold for $400, had Lambright Luxe power theater seating in.
$3200. Did the install myself. Pics available if it would help you decide what to do.
Bought coach used in ‘20, obvious sleeper part never used, terrible to sit in to watch tv. Recliner was awkward to use, always in way to travel.

[vettenuts]

Check the records for maintenance of the coolant. If not maintained it can bite you down the road. That goes for any of the coaches.

[LuandJan]

We have a 2015 Phaeton AH. Issue one was a leak on the big passenger side slide.- contacted Mr Tiffin and he took care of that. Only recurring issue is the middle bath, it shifts in travel. Not a major issue but I think that’s why that floor plan was discontinued. But we love that bathroom. Bought in 2022.

[lijbs]

We still own and are the original owners of a 2016 AH. We also love the floor plan. The center bathroom allows for a much better flow through the RV rather than squeezing through at the foot of the bed. It gives you the feel of a much larger unit. My wife also loves her little dressing room in the rear of the unit.
Up till last year the single midship floorplan was offered in each level of the Tiffin lineup. It was Tiffins best selling floorplan. We also experienced the same issue with the shifting bathroom walls mentioned above.

Apparently, there is a flexing/twisting action that happens at the center of the chassis and that seems to break the connections of the base of the walls. I had Connecticut replace some floor tile that cracked several years ago. That seemed to work and I have not had any issues with the tile but the “L” shaped wall started to shift around last year. I know it was due to the way I approached a speed bump. The angle that I was on twisted the frame and must have snapped the one 5/16” fastener that held the wall in place.
This year I dismantled the entire wall section and reattached with several stainless steel bolts in four locations. No more issues!

All the units you mentioned are quite good it really will be up to the floor plan that you think is the best. Carry a spare serpentine belt in the event your A/C compressor (common issue on all these units) freezes up. Good luck!

[Singlefin]

Originally Posted by lijbs

We still own and are the original owners of a 2016 AH. We also love the floor plan. The center bathroom allows for a much better flow through the RV rather than squeezing through at the foot of the bed. It gives you the feel of a much larger unit. My wife also loves her little dressing room in the rear of the unit.
Up till last year the single midship floorplan was offered in each level of the Tiffin lineup. It was Tiffins best selling floorplan. We also experienced the same issue with the shifting bathroom walls mentioned above.

Apparently, there is a flexing/twisting action that happens at the center of the chassis and that seems to break the connections of the base of the walls. I had Connecticut replace some floor tile that cracked several years ago. That seemed to work and I have not had any issues with the tile but the “L” shaped wall started to shift around last year. I know it was due to the way I approached a speed bump. The angle that I was on twisted the frame and must have snapped the one 5/16” fastener that held the wall in place.
This year I dismantled the entire wall section and reattached with several stainless steel bolts in four locations. No more issues!

All the units you mentioned are quite good it really will be up to the floor plan that you think is the best. Carry a spare serpentine belt in the event your A/C compressor (common issue on all these units) freezes up. Good luck!

Is it the wall that the toilet is nearest? There is a pocket door leading into the bedroom and a swing out door into the galley. Does this wall get loose?

[LuandJan]

We would be very interested in your process to repair the bathroom wall that prevents it from shifting in the Phaeton 40 AH. As stated it is not huge issue just very annoying to see the floor as it is. Let me know. Thanks

[lijbs]

Originally Posted by LuandJan

We would be very interested in your process to repair the bathroom wall that prevents it from shifting in the Phaeton 40 AH. As stated it is not huge issue just very annoying to see the floor as it is. Let me know. Thanks

Normally, I photograph my repair work however for some reason I did not with this issue. I will however try to describe the process.There are two pocket door on one section of the wall that runs E-W and one swinging door on the wall section that runs N-S. This repair involved reattaching and reenforcing both wall sections.

There are some items that will be needed starting with the four (4) bolts I used. They were 5/16" stainless steel lag bolts 2" long and no more than 2-1/2" long. Four (4) Matching fender washers.

Small length, or a piece of 1" x 1" x ( 3/32" to 1/8") aluminum angle available through HD or Ace Hardware. You will only need a 3" piece but will need to purchase a longer length just because the retailer will only sell it that way.

3 each #12 x 2" Stainless wood screws
3 each #10 x3/4" Stainless wood screws

Wood putty to match your wood finish. Also, Minwax makes a stain marker that I always keep in the coach for minor t/ups of dings.
https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-634830...s%2C86&sr=1-21

An angle attachment for your drill so you can drill through the floor cleat.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TRSVC9S...2-67ae85990dd2

It would be very handy if you have a pin or brad nailer available to refasten wood base moulding which will be required to be carefully removed.

First remove both sliding doors. There are two latches on top of the door where the they hang from. It will be handy to have a second person to help lift, wiggle and support while removing and reinstalling.

So starting with this process behind the toilet working in either direction remove the base. That includes the little tunnel behind the toilet for the spray hose. You will notice that the sliding door is much shorter in height and actually slides above the base moulding, this needs to be removed. In the bedroom there is one section of 6" high base that needs to be carefully pried off. There is a piece (like a cleat) on the floor is back screwed through a floor cleat that you will be sending the lag screws through and into the subfloor.

NOTE The floor tile is installed at Tiffin before the walls are installed so, once you see this cleat pick out three grout joints where you will drill through for the pilot holes through the cleat for the bolts. The three bolts will be installed along the the section of wall on the bedroom side.

Moving to the slide pocket by the refrigerator you will be installing one bolt at the first tile grout joint. If there isn't one close enough to reach you will need to drill through the porcelain tile. This will require a quality 5/16" masonry bit and a hammer drill. I needed to do this. But this step is essential to fasten the wood cleat which is not the sam cleat as the one with the three bolts.

OK, last attachment is on the inside of the bathroom. At the base of the door on the hinge side. When you removed the small piece of base there was a 1" piece of angle screwed through a joint and one screw into the wood panel. That panel is only 3/4" thick so new fasteners will need to be no longer than 3/4". This is the location that the 3" piece of aluminum angle will be installed in place of the small 1" piece. It will be necessary to trim down and modify (shorten) the leg of the angle that will be facing the floor. This can be accomplihed using a Dremel or grinder, but in order to hide this piece under the base moulding, the leg needs to be less that a 1/2" wide. Time to drill through the tile, and add some #12 x 2" long stainless wood screws. This will replace the Tiffin 1" long piece with a one anchor screw. Add two or three anchor points through the floor and attach the other leg of the angle piece to the door using #10 x 3/4" long wood screws in the wall panel. All this will be covered when you reinstall the wood base. You may have to scoop out a small portion of the small wood base so it seats over the angle and screws.

Reinstall all of the wood base molding including wood putty and t/up, grab the second pair of hands, hang the two sliders and you're done.

I realize this was very long and may sound intimidating but with some "handy" skills should be very doable! Hope this helps!

[Singlefin]

This is excellent blow by blow instructions Jonathan. Many Thanks!

We are headed tomorrow to checkout a 2015 AH which the owner claims is in mint condition. I've added the bathroom wall to my 6 page checklist.
Hopefully no issues, but even if its apparent I'll know what to expect and how to approach the repair.

Wish me luck!

[lijbs]

No luck needed! You will love the AH floor plan!

Try to remember that as you embark on the journey of MH’ing, maintaining or maintenance will be part of the journey. Speaking for myself as I’m sure others, that portion is part of the journey and not at all a part that should be frowned upon. Maintaining our RV has become a hobby and a very rewarding part of MH’ing.

Let me know how you make out with the inspection. Enjoy!