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SeeTheUSA2 · 03-31-2023, 09:04 AM

Hi,

We have a 2019 32SA with about 12 months live aboard of use on it.

Just this past week the water heater died. First the electric function stopped heating, then a couple of days later the gas function stopped (would not ignite). This happened after getting the coach detailed at the campsite; don't know if the two are related

Question 1: This seems like a short lifetime. Heck, we got longer lasting WHs on our old sailboat. Is this normal?

Question 2: It seems the GC6AA-10E is discontinued and parts are hard to get (and get at) as per other posts in the systems forum. Is it better to replace the GC6AA-10E with a WH-G6EA which is what folks have recommended?

Tnx,
Paul

RoadEyePie · 03-31-2023, 09:07 AM

Have you contacted the manufacturer (of the water heater, not Tiffin)?

SeeTheUSA2 · 03-31-2023, 09:38 AM

I checked voltage to yellow #2 wire with the electric spyder button on: 12VDC but no AC draw (on shore power.) So I conclude the 110 relay would appear bad.

I pressed the gas spyder button, heard the gas relay, smelled gas, but got no spark. After a few clicks, the red light on the spyder display came on.

It seems the control unit can try to close the AC relay for the electrical heater element, but either the relay or element is bad. Access to both components seems like a PITA.

On the gas side, the no click is probably a common problem, but a replacement board is tough to find.

My question is whether to get a generic replacement board, knowing that at best it will fix the gas side, or just break down and buy and install a whole new water heater.

p.

Brigrat · 03-31-2023, 11:01 AM

had the same thing happen within the first month in my current TT. Replaced thermocouple and all better. My guess is that you have a similar issue.

**Lt Dan** · 03-31-2023, 11:57 AM

If they sprayed high pressure water into the water heater when they were detailing, that could have caused the problem. The control board could have shorted but may be worth pulling it out and seeing if it's still wet. Also, there may be a fuse on the board that could have blown.

Old-Biscuit · 03-31-2023, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeeTheUSA2

I checked voltage to yellow #2 wire with the electric spyder button on: 12VDC but no AC draw (on shore power.) So I conclude the 110 relay would appear bad.

Got 12VDC on Yellow wire then circuit board is good.
DC Relay is BAD, AC wiring to/from DC Relay Bad or Element is burnt out/shorted
DC Relay and element are located on backside of WH Tank under protective cover
DC and AC Voltage present!!! Remove DC fuse on circuit board and Trip/open the 15A Circuit Breaker

I pressed the gas spyder button, heard the gas relay, smelled gas, but got no spark. After a few clicks, the red light on the spyder display came on.

Gas Valve Opens/smell gas ---- so DC from circuit board to/thru ECO and to gas valve is Good (RED wire)
BUT no Spark ---that could be BAD connection at Transformer on circuit board/ Bad spark wire/bad spark electrode/bad ground connection (spark assembly mounting screw
Check continuity thru spark electrode wire, clean/tighten connector at transformer, clean/tighten mounting screw

It seems the control unit can try to close the AC relay for the electrical heater element, but either the relay or element is bad. Access to both components seems like a PITA.

On the gas side, the no click is probably a common problem, but a replacement board is tough to find.

My question is whether to get a generic replacement board, knowing that at best it will fix the gas side, or just break down and buy and install a whole new water heater.

p.

Replacement board..
OEM 91365 available
Aftermarket 91365MC available
Dinosaur Electronics UIB64

Spark Electrode 93868

Swapping WH out would be an option IF tank was splt, parts not available etc
The Dometic WH-6GEA is a gas/electric replacement
*But they have airflow issues and premature thermal fuse failures due to how air is pulled in and locating of thermal fuse
BUT element and relay are accessible from front

Suburban SAW6DEL is a gas/electric direct replacement
*Uses DC to activate Gas and electric

Personally I would determine WHAT is not working and repair it

https://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/...0e-tune-up-kit

SeeTheUSA2 · 04-01-2023, 12:01 PM

Lt Dan and Old-Biscuit thank you for the ideas and instructions.

I will go out right away and do some more trouble shooting.

tnx,
Paul

ryarker · 04-01-2023, 03:17 PM

I'd also suggest you check out the many YouTube troubleshooting videos. Some are excellent and there's probably one for your model of heater.

Rick

SeeTheUSA2 · 04-03-2023, 08:31 AM

So after some more testing:

Gas: I took the sparker out, cleaned and gaped the electrodes, and tested the hi-voltage wire. All seemed good .. still no spark. It would seem I need a new control board.

Electric: worse news

.. I tested power into the relay, out of it, and at the heating element and there was a good 120vac. Thus I would guess the element is bad.

So I'll order the parts, see what happens, and get back to this thread.

tnx,
Paul

SeeTheUSA2 · 04-03-2023, 08:32 AM

I noticed the pictures of the control board onoline show it is not epoxy potted.

Should these be coated with epoxy before installing?

tnx,
Paul

SeeTheUSA2 · 04-06-2023, 10:49 AM

Well, I'm glad I listened to the folks here and did not try to replace the water heater.

I ordered a new control board, installed it 10 min after it arrived, and we got the gas heater part to work OK. Easy fix, fairly low cost, and we can stock a spare.

The electrical side took some more debugging. I removed a couple of bottom drawers in the galley, disconnected a heater hose and moved it out of the way, and was able to do some more accurate voltage testing.

The relay worked just fine so I tested the incoming voltage. I got 120vac across incoming black and ground, but only ~75vac across blk-wht. Fishy I thought. Then i remembered we had a mouse last year so there was a possibility chewed wires and I started tracing.

The water heater cord had a plug after about only 4 ft and the problem was there: the plug was loose. It was only partially in the socket (presumably a 30a device.)

So fixing the electrical heat side was a matter of jamming the plug into the socket.

And so neither of the malfunctioning heat (gas/electric) had anything to do with the coach being detailed AND i did not have to replace the heating element.

tnx for all the help,
Paul

Old-Biscuit · 04-06-2023, 11:13 AM

Control board.......could have been shorted when the RV was washed.

What board did you use for replacement........Dinosaur Electronics?

AS for the AC Plug....that is just an outlet on 15A Circuit Breaker

Did the plug go in tight...have resistance?
Might want to unplug, ben the prongs out just a bit then plug back in
Make it more snug

If that doesn't work.....replace the outlet
They are cheap junk

SeeTheUSA2 · 04-07-2023, 07:19 AM

I removed the old board and examined it carefully but could find no cracks or places for water to enter except for where the pin connectors are located. I saved the board and will look into that area.

I got a replacement (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019COT1HC...roduct_details) Atwood 91365. It appears mostly coated except the transformer. Don't know what will happen.

When I re-seated the plug, there was some resistance and I felt satisfied there was a good seating. Next time I have the drawer out, I'll put a tie-wrap or tape around it.