Community Forums

55nsew · 10-27-2012, 03:09 PM

We have a 2004 allegro bay 37.5 ft gaser and need info on winterizing like where is the pump located to add antifreeze to instead of putting many gallons in the fresh water tank. Also is the hot water heater needing to be drained as I can not get plug unscrewed.

Or do I need to get enough pink stuff to just fill everything $$$$

We have been looking and can not find a general book on the RV just every mechanical thing in it

I feel stupid I winterize my old unit a truck camper and it just had one pump with a draw up hose for the pink stuff
I would empty tanks empty water heater blow lines out with air and then add pink stuff to pump to run through lines and add to traps and toiler and tanks

Thanks for all you help

Janis

trackman · 10-27-2012, 03:49 PM

If you cannot get to the back of your hot water heater to install a bypass just get 8 gallons of antifreeze and do just like you did with your old unit. Pump from the city water inlet and bleed the lines. Could not cost more than $30.00. If you can acess your hot water heater form the rear and bypass you save $24.00

luvlabs · 10-27-2012, 05:36 PM

What part of the country are you located in? If you are in a zone where you don't get super cold weather, you can use an air compressor to blow out the lines and then add anti-freeze to the sink traps only.

You can drain the water heater by unscrewing the drain plug, you should have low point drains somewhere in your wet bay - open those and your faucets. Remove you water filter, if you have one. Drain your water tank.

You can get an adaptor to screw into your fresh water inlet that allows you to put an air chuck on it and you use the list to blow the water line. Keep going until you don't get any more water through the faucets - don't forget the toilet and shower while you doing this.

BTW, Camping World sells books that teach you basic RV maintenance.

TGR · 10-28-2012, 03:22 PM

I am concerned that you can't remove the drain plug on your hot water tank. If it freezes, it will be expensive to replace. If it were me, this is what I would try - open the low point valves and at least one faucet. Once it stops draining, I would open the pressure valve on the hot water tank. Hopefully, you will see the 6 or 8 gallons drain out the low point drains.

J Birder · 10-28-2012, 03:41 PM

More likely than not, the drain on the water heater is also the sacrificial anode. Eventually, it will wear down and need to be replaced. The longer you wait, the tougher it will be to remove when you have to.

Gei a 1-1/16" six point socket, a (6"?) extension, and a breaker bar. If that won't get it out, give the bar a few raps with a hammer. As a last resort, rent an impact wrench.

Joel

62Morgan · 10-29-2012, 01:01 PM

Your FW pump is used to introduce antifreeze solution. Just disconnect an use the "suction" side pipe into your antifreeze bottle.

BTW:Not mentioned so far is to remove your water filter and install a flat metal plate blank in it's place. This will reduce a portion of AF capacity. Besides, you never want to leave filter element in during low temps. It will crack!

Also shut-off water supply & return to heater and open a by-pass valve. This is usually with a few feet of the heater itself.
Drive around with open low point drains to completely get all water out of freshwater tank and system. Your coach might have a mid-ship located FW tank drain port as mine does. In fact, my 34Xb has two FW tanks!

doit2010 · 11-04-2012, 06:24 PM

I am interested in doing the winterizing m self, WHAT KIND OF COMPRESSOR SHOULD I BUY AND FROM WHOM?

55nsew · 11-05-2012, 10:02 AM

we used a air tank get it filled at a gas station cost 30 or buy a tank for around 100 to 150 and that will work but for years it just cost us nothing as we had the 30 dollar tank that you fill at the gas station

paz · 11-06-2012, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 55nsew

We have a 2004 allegro bay 37.5 ft gaser and need info on winterizing like where is the pump located to add antifreeze to instead of putting many gallons in the fresh water tank. Also is the hot water heater needing to be drained as I can not get plug unscrewed.

Or do I need to get enough pink stuff to just fill everything $$$$

We have been looking and can not find a general book on the RV just every mechanical thing in it

I feel stupid I winterize my old unit a truck camper and it just had one pump with a draw up hose for the pink stuff
I would empty tanks empty water heater blow lines out with air and then add pink stuff to pump to run through lines and add to traps and toiler and tanks

Thanks for all you help

Janis

Your water pump is located in the wet bay. Disconnect the pump inlet and stick it into a bottle of antifreeze. It should take about 2 gallons assuming you can get the drain plug out of the water heater. Check and replace the anode rod and replace it if necessary when you put it back in the spring. Don't forget to switch the water heater bypass valve, also located in the wet bay.

If your fridge has an ice maker, don't forget to winterize that. Also, if you have a washer/dryer, it will also need to be winterized.

pcurt23 · 11-06-2012, 07:12 AM

Camping world has a variety of devices to help with using air to clean out the water in your lines for winter. I use a blow out plug that screws into the fresh water connection. I set my air compressor on 40 psi and then blow out the lines. I use the pink stuff in the traps and the black and grey tanks.

Blow Out Hose - Intersource Enterprises D16-252 - Winterizing - Camping World
Blow-out Plug - Camco RV 36104 - Winterizing - Camping World
8pc. Portable Air Compressor: Take Craftsman Power to Go with Sears

This is also a good reason to join a FMCA Chapter.

xctraveler · 11-07-2012, 02:35 PM

It has been said already, start by making every effort to remove the drain plug from the water heater. That is the first step. It must come out in any event. If it is the sacrificial anode (suburban) it probably needs to be replaced. If it is an Atwood which does not use the anode it ought to be plastic and needs to removed to drain the sediment from the bottom of the tank. There also must be a bypass valve in the wet bay marked as such. Once the WH is drained bypass the tank and save 6 to 10 gal of antifreeze.

I'll leave instructions to winterize icemaker and Washer to others.

BDHunter · 12-02-2012, 05:21 AM

Don't forget the outside shower. Be prepared to spend about $23 for a 1 1/16 socket because I couldn't find just one. I had to buy total set. My dealer wanted $225 to winterize. I'm going to do it myself this year when I return from the beech. I talked to two people last year at the beach RV park. They were both from the north. They said just open the drains and let the water drain as you drive down the road, then blow the rest out with air and put some AF in traps.

JudyH · 12-02-2012, 05:48 AM

Ace hardware has the single socket, but you need an extension too.

TGR · 12-02-2012, 06:31 AM

I bought a single socket at HD. I would add running RV antifreeze through all the water lines on you list. It will add less than $20 to your cost, and your water system will be fully protected. If water remains in a low point and freezes the cost is likely to be far more than $20.

Also, if you have an ice maker, water filter, or washer - there are additional steps. I called a local CW in NJ that I greatly trust, and the would charge less than $150 if you have a washer or ice maker.