Bounder: '16 Bounder Solar and Lithium Upgrade

[ltcharles]

Just came to this thread by chance when I saw your post on what size if your battery bank. Have to say love your rig pun intended since I saw computerguy.

Kidding aside very nicely down kudos all around.

Funny how solar can sneak up on you with cost. One may have a budget but once you start and if your like me a little ocd and want everything to match LOL the price just skyrockets.

In my case my rough cost was the equivalent to buying a used small car :P

[computerguy]

I planned it out and came in on budget if I recall. That was in 2017 over 6 years ago. Don't forget your tax credit!!!

[Land Barger]

I'm new to the forum and somewhat new to RV'ing. Really appreciate the knowledge shared here. I'm in the midst of analyzing a very similar project - without the solar. Most aspects are the same - Bounder RV; Magnum Inverter; planning on installing ME AGS; BMK and replacing FLA batteries with Lithium. Adding a DC/DC charger and isolating the generator to the start battery.
I'd really like to tap your brain for a few things I'm challenged with:
1. Routing wires for the AGS hookups - Fleetwood seems to be difficult in sharing schematics
2. Not being an electrician, i'm having a little difficulty in figuring out where/how to install the DC/DC charger to ensure that I am not still potentially overloading the alternator.
I appreciate any assistance.
Thx!

[computerguy]

Originally Posted by Land Barger

I'm new to the forum and somewhat new to RV'ing. Really appreciate the knowledge shared here. I'm in the midst of analyzing a very similar project - without the solar. Most aspects are the same - Bounder RV; Magnum Inverter; planning on installing ME AGS; BMK and replacing FLA batteries with Lithium. Adding a DC/DC charger and isolating the generator to the start battery.
I'd really like to tap your brain for a few things I'm challenged with:
1. Routing wires for the AGS hookups - Fleetwood seems to be difficult in sharing schematics
2. Not being an electrician, i'm having a little difficulty in figuring out where/how to install the DC/DC charger to ensure that I am not still potentially overloading the alternator.
I appreciate any assistance.
Thx!

Not sure why you are having a problem getting the schematics from FW/REV. I would ask why they will not. They always used to.
It will definitely help. Without it you'll need to do a lot of investigation. You don't need to be an electrician but you need to be proficient in tracing the circuits and use of a multimeter.
I did provide a number of diagrams as to what I know about my year Bounder. Precision Circuits makes the illumaPlex panel and can be another source of info. You'll need to understand how the BCC works also.
I did not install a DC/DC charger because it complicated things and I did not need it. But if you look at my schematic you can see where it might fit. But a tip is the boost solenoid (connects the house with the chassis battery) becomes a problem and AFAIK it needs to be disconnected.
Not sure what you mean by isolating the generator to the start battery.

[C.Martin]

The ME-AGS wiring is explained in the instructions.

It taps into wires that go to the generator for starting, obviously...you can tap into them at the generator or the remote start panel.

The ME-AGS itself needs a comm cord run to the Inverter... there are ports for network cabling on the inverter.

Two other options...
Remote temp sensor or Pigtail connection to a dedicated dometic control box configured for AGS. The second is preferable...as it only fires the generator when selected to TEMP = ext. Input...if main AC power is unavailable. Nice feature. So it's coordinated with the existing wall thermostat for Donetic units. That's what came on our Newmars back when they used Magnum Energy equipment.

[computerguy]

I missed the part about the AGS wiring.
I don't use the remote temp for the AGS to start so can't help there.
I did tap into the wires on the dash for the manual gen start. I simply ran the wires I needed from the dash to the bay where the inverter (and the AGS I mounted there) is. They went across the engine bay, over the passenger front tire, then under the stairs to the inverter compartment.

[Land Barger]

Thx for the quick responses. I think I've got a plan. Probably going to take a few 'baby steps' and break the project up... since I'm also in the middle of wiring in a brake controller toad project too.
I might skip the AGS for now, since with the lithium, I don't think I'll be dragging down the batteries at anywhere near the pace I was/am with the FLA batteries.
Probably going to start with
1. DC-DC charger and 600ah battery
2. Add in an AB battery switch for the starter battery and DC charger option... inbound to the BCC, which will always be on the charger, unless I need a jump back to the start battery. turning off the starter battery switch in the coach step should disable the charger draw, right? If not, I can turn the AB switch to "off"
3. Get a bluetooth SOC monitor to get an accurate understanding of the house batteries.

Let me know if you see any flaws in my redneck engineering ideas.

Thanks again!

[C.Martin]

Opps...

I forget...there are actually two different ME-AGS types. One has settings on the face of the unit...the other is the one controlled by the ME-RC or ME-ARC remote.

The one we have, that is controlled and programmed thru the remote panel is called the ME-AGS-N... N being Networked...

I will take some though as to how where best to mount the Unit, and the Domestic control together... and wires that network the AGS to the generator and Inverter...and Dometic comm connection from a point where it is making network connection between the thermostat and one of the roof top units control boxes. Each control box has dip switches that set up the purpose of that control box. When you do the AGS one...only AGS dip gets set. You have to put the thermostat thru a relearn process...where it will detect the new controller and see that it is AGS.

The ME-AGS also has pins to set...which detail the program for starting your Generator. It sets timing for priming, starting, etc...to match the generators profile. It then looks for the run signal. If not received...it will make a total of three attempts then FAULT.