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03-23-2012, 08:12 AM
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#1
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 36
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1984 23' Tioga (Ford E350 chassis)
Hello,
Problem: I just bought a 1984 Fleetwood Tioga (Ford Econoline E350 chassis) RV battery drains in about a day or so. Problem still exists after I have done the following:
• Main Battery voltage was 20.18 volts with no cables connected, reading across the terminals
• Placed voltmeter in series between neg terminal and neg cable and read 20.18 volts.
• Placed voltmeter in series between neg terminal and neg cable and meter overloaded while taking an Ammeter reading on the 10A DC position.
• One by one, I removed all of the fuses and checked the voltage reading. For each fuse, the voltmeter read 20.18 volts.
• The auxiliary battery, I discovered was dead. I also discovered that the battery was installed in correctly with the battery cables swapped, pos cable to neg terminal, neg terminal to positive post.
• I removed the auxiliary battery from the RV.
• On the DC/AC power distribution panel, I opened all breakers.
• Note: The park lights do not operate. The left turn signal does not turn on or blink. The right turn signal works fine. The backup lights work fine.
At this point, it seems that their is a ground somewhere. So I am wondering how to proceed next. I appreciate any help. thanks!
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03-23-2012, 08:22 AM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Bryan, TX when not traveling.
Posts: 22,970
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You need to check your battery bank to see if you have 12 v (6 cell) wired in parallel or 6 v (3 cell) wired in series.
A fully charged 12 volt vattery should read about 13 volts (+/-) fully charged.
No way you sould be reading 20 volts on the DC circuits in the RV...or check your volt meter against a nown source.
ken
__________________
Amateur Radio Operator (KE5DFR)|No Longer Full-Time! - 2023 Cougar 22MLS toted by 2022 F150, 3.5L EcoBoost Tow Max FX4 Lariat Travel with one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot, retired mechanical engineer
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03-23-2012, 01:48 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: western n.c.
Posts: 388
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on turn sigs it could be the turn sig switch in the streering wheel, had same problem on mine.one side worked fine,other side did not blink but made park lights come on. replaced switch and fixed everthing
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07 bounder 35e/workhorse
17 jayco northpoint 377 rlbh
17 3500 Duramax
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03-23-2012, 05:01 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Location: kingston tn.
Posts: 974
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check your meter, nothing on a ford e350 should read 20v
brianj
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just liven life in east tn or where ever our
2011 georgetown ,2016 explorer and 2015 "hemi" ram take us
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03-24-2012, 05:58 AM
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#5
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 36
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Sometimes the obvious is overlooked!
Quote:
Originally Posted by TXiceman
You need to check your battery bank to see if you have 12 v (6 cell) wired in parallel or 6 v (3 cell) wired in series.
A fully charged 12 volt vattery should read about 13 volts (+/-) fully charged.
No way you sould be reading 20 volts on the DC circuits in the RV...or check your volt meter against a nown source.
ken
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Thanks for your help. I changed multimeters and received the correct voltage. Additionally, I discovered, the AUXILIARY BATTERY was installed in reverse, that is pos cable to neg post, neg cable to pos post.
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03-24-2012, 06:12 AM
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#6
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 36
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tncruiser: Thanks to you as well. That was the right track to follow.
After discovering the AUX battery installed correctly, I took both MAIN and AUX batteries to have checked. The MAIN battery had correct voltage but was low on cold cranking amps. The test machine recommended replacing. The AUX battery was dead so it could not even be tested. I did try to charge the AUX battery but my battery charger could not charge it. Subsequently, I purchased two new batteries.
After installing the new MAIN battery, I once again placed a multimeter in series between neg terminal and neg cable. The meter read about 150-170 milliamps. So I have been informed that anything under 250 milliamps is considered normal.
I performed the above test with all the fuses installed, so this indicates to me that their is no ground in the main distribution wiring.
I have left the new MAIN battery installed and will let it sit for a couple of days to see if the battery drains again. For now, things are moving along.
If the MAIN battery is stable after about 48 hours, then my intentions are to turn on accessories one by one, and see if they are operating properly and/or causing any problems.
Then I will try and troubleshoot the turn signals.
Thanks again for all your help!
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