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Old 11-23-2010, 06:27 AM   #1
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Question 1996 Pace Arrow Vision on a 1995 F53 Chassis

Cannot get it to start only hear a clicking sound from somewhere around the motor area. I have had this issue on and off but could get it to start by turning the key from off to start several times. But now the season is over and it is time to resolve this problem. I have it parked at our property during the summer and start it occasionally to keep the fluids moving. Iím thinking it is the solenoid I can hear it clicking but can't seem to find it. Does anyone know where they hid it?

Thanks for any help.
96 Pace Arrow Vision 35 W/09 Jeep Liberty Sport 4X4
Some posts have up to 5 lines in what I presume is the signature area. But I can only fit 3 lines in.
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:31 AM   #2
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Not sure where your starter solenoid is located but that sounds really like a bad battery connection. I would clean the connections on the starter battery, clean where the ground cable connects to the chassis, and then start tracing the positive cable and see where it goes, should eventually get to the solenoid.

Good luck and keep us posted.

The signature area problem is probably because you have changed your font size larger than normal. Also to me, makes your post a little harder to read, may be just my old eyes though.
Jerry Potter, Taz
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:05 PM   #3
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Could also be dirty contacts inside the solenoid. You might try to tap the gem with a hammer while DW tries to start it. That'll be another piece of data to assimilate.
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Old 11-24-2010, 08:11 PM   #4
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A single click when the key is turned usually means that the start relay (actually a solenoid) is picking, but not making internal contact. The solenoid is located on the inside wall of the doghouse, (directly through the wall) from where your right foot would be if you were sitting in the drivers seat with your foot on the gas pedal. It's a standard Ford start solenoid activated by the ignition and sends power to the actual starter solenoid through larger wires.

It can actually be pried open and repaired (contacts cleaned) very easily, but is inexpensive to replace.
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Old 11-25-2010, 06:23 PM   #5
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You can also get this result if the key assembly; when they get old, the continuity gets bad, and you can turn the key and get that click+nothing effect. Since it is only happening sometimes, I am thinking that's a possible culprit.

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Old 11-25-2010, 06:49 PM   #6
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It may be a problem with the ignition switch. But could be a starter solenoid issue as well.

On another note, your period start ups to "keep the fluids circulating" are doing more harm than good. You are not getting the fluids, the transmission and engine are not getting fully up to operating and will have some moisture retained which form acids. The exhaust will have moisture and form acids.

The proper thing to do is to either:
-Change the oil, add fuel stabilizer and let it set a few months.
OR take the coach out and drive it for a minimum of 1/2 hour every 30 minutes. This will get all of the systems up to temperature and operate to get the moisture driven out of the oils.

While driving it, run the generator and run a load on the generator.

Amateur Radio Operator (KE5DFR)|Full-Time! - 2012 6.7L Ford Crew Cab Dually -2013 HitchHiker Champagne 38RLRSB - Currently FOR SALE Travel with one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot, retired mechanical engineer
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Old 11-25-2010, 07:31 PM   #7
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A series of clicks normally indicates a low battery or poor/dirty connection/connections, the first click is the system thinking it has enough power and clicking in the next click is the system not having enough power to do the job and it clicks out, then the procedures repeats itself as long as you hold the key in the start position hence the series of clicks.

A single click normally happens when the internals of the starter can not process the power it receives, the solenoid kicks in (one click) but the starter just can't get the job down. Sometimes a boost/jump start with really good cables will help (making people think it's a battery problem).

As mentioned above a tap with a hammer will sometimes make the starter work and numerous times the starter will work OK by itself after that many times, or maybe only one, maybe a few times.

Anytime this One Click happens to you it's time to replace the starter as it's telling you it's getting ready to give up the ghost usually at a very inopportune time.

I've towed many cars, trucks, RV's for this problem over the past years only to have them start at the drop point from simply being jostled while towing them down the road.

While you can tear the starter down and clean it yourself most of the times it's cheaper in the long run to get a rebuilt exchange.

There are more technical ways of explaining this but this seemed the easiest way of getting the point across.
John & Cathy R.
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:50 AM   #8
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Click on the attached link and observe the typical Ford starter diagram then perform this simple test.

Turn on some dash/headlights. Then turn the ignition key.
If you get ONE click, and the lights DO NOT dim, you will know that the relay labeled Ford Solenoid operated, but did not make internal contact and/or did not pick the starter solenoid (located on the starter).

If you get ONE click, and the lights dim significantly, but the starter doesn't turn, you most likely have a starter that is stuck or defective. (i.e. the first solenoid and the starter solenoid both activated allowing the starter windings to draw heavy current to no avail)

If you get multiple clicks (chatter) you know that the Ford Solenoid is activated and attempting to activate the starter solenoid, but a possible weak battery, or poor connection, is not allowing sufficient voltage across the starter windings.

Ford start diagram
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