Okay...you have dual pane windows...that's a great start. Means you have more winter insulation then RVs without them. So, yeah, after checking Indianapolis weather for the winter, I think with a team effort you can pull it off. To answer your initial question, check your Pace to see if the plumbing runs along the floor inside the RV. That's what the Bounder did to make it a cold weather RV. I still had to keep the under sink cabinets open to avoid freezing and once a pipe did freeze but I guessed where it was and pointed a heater towards it so no problem. Since you have a dual pane window unit, I'd suspect you're already pretty well protected. The furnaces should keep things unfrozen for the most part. They leak warm air into the wet bays too, usually.
1) Situate the RV in a spot where the side of the RV gets the afternoon sun, south facing. That will help keep the tanks from freezing.
2) Put tires and jacks on plywood platforms so they don't freeze to the ground.
3) Make sure you daughter knows how to dump the tanks and fill the water tank so those hoses don't freeze during the harshest cold period. If she's careful about ONLY using them when needed and putting them away afterwards, slinky goes in a basement compartment, water hose in the house, that's the best way to keep them from getting filled with liquids and freezing solid if you leave them connected up all winter. Don't bother with heated hoses, unless you want to repeatedly replace it. They have a very short life. Keep a regular water hose inside so it's warm and limber. Take it outside and connect up to shore water when needed, fill the on board tank, drain and put the hose away. Plastic quick connects make it an easier job.
4) Do buy several heat tapes with thermostats. Wrap the RVs dump valves and if you have a shore water inlet in a basement compartment wrap that too. Might wrap the slinky loosely so it can be connected to shore sewer, used and put away easily. If it freezes, it can split very readily. Maybe buy the Rhino brand slinky, they have pretty thick vinyl and stay put when squeezed together. Or hire a honey bucket service to come pump her tanks out for her occasionally.
5) Use the 1"-2" blue foam sheeting around the bottom of the RV. Try to block off the front of the RV totally if you can. Get creative with that because a lot of air moves around the engine area. Put a small electric heater on a thermostat under the RV.
6) Blue foam sheets across the dash blocking off the windows totally. It's too cold in that part of the RV to 'enjoy the view' anyway in the dead of winter.
7) Buy a roll of foil covered insulating bubble wrap. Home Depot has it in 3' wide rolls of 25'. Cut it for the windows. They can be removed during the day for a view, and put up at night when it gets cold.
8) Go to thrift shops and buy several small forced air electric heaters. Put one under the RV and one in each wet bay. The rest go in cold spots inside the RV. 5 or 6 of them should do it. Find an electric blanket for her bed. By far the best heating appliance for night. You are best to stay at an RV park that has 50-30-20 amp power towers. That way you can use extension cords and a dogbone for the heaters and thermotapes plugged into lines she's not using for the house itself.
9) Arrange for a 100 gallon propane tank from your local gas retailer. Have it installed and connected up to your RVs system. Yes, it's done all the time, but you might have trouble finding a qualified propane tech near where she's going to stay.
10) Maybe install one of these diesel heaters to get away from all the propane she's bound to use, eBay has them too:
Heater...
11) Avoid Lil Buddy heaters at all costs. Those are for tents.
Have FUN! Winter camping can be complicated but it has it's enjoyable moments. The worst part is if the water hose or especially the slinky get mostly filled with ice and freeze to the ground. Almost impossible to get them loose without ruining them or spending hours working on it.
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