American Coach: 1997 American Dream remodel

[GlennLever]

There are Gillig transit buses running in this area with electric fans.

I posed the question to a freind that works at Gillig and I got this responce.

Glenn,

The E-FAN(Electric Fan) system took off a few years ago and we haven't built many hydraulic systems since. It requires 8 fans and is all electronically controlled through the engine ECM. It does require using a larger alternator. The systems we use are made from Modine which is the same radiator manufacturer that's on your coach. Might want to check their website to see if they even offer one for a 12 volt application. We use the 24 volt ones and fuse it at 250 amps!. Please do not give my contact to a Spartan chassis owner. We just help our Gillig customers. Thanks

[stkt]

Much appreciated Glenn. 8 fans, 250 amps. Like you said earlier, lots of draw, and that against 24 volts instead of 12. The real kicker is the mention of the controller, or ECM, which we do not have on these mechanical engines. Seems there is no solution to convert a mechanical engine from hydraulic to electric, and if the attempt were made, the price for the net hp gain (gain from eliminating the hydraulic minus the difference between the new alternator hp draw less the old alternator hp draw) would be more expensive than dropping a new motor in the thing!

Got the coach back from Spartan with the new hydraulic motor. They did a great job cleaning the engine compartment and underside. Time to start detailing the differential.

[stkt]

It's been a long time coming, and with the latest hydraulic leak and subsequent excellent engine compartment cleaning by Spartan, the insulation in the engine compartment has thrown in the towel. It's toast.

Started removing insulation this morning and found it was holding moisture, lots of moisture. The backing and face have both failed, so there is no saving this stuff.

I'm wondering if there is some type of spray on insulation for engine compartments. That would eliminate any problem of moisture retention in the future. The good news is the metal revealed when the insulation was removed is in good shape. To make sure it stays that way everything will get some POR15 before proceeding with insulation installation.

Drivers side engine compartment insulation removed. Note how the facing has failed, allowing moisture to absorb into the insulation.

[zmotorsports]

That looks like what our old Beaver Contessa started doing. I removed it all, cut some masonite smooth sided paneling and glued some Dynomat to it as a replacement. It looked great and held up well for the several years we had the coach after that.

Mike.

[GlennLever]

When I redid the insulation in the ceiling of my engine compartment I purchased regular hood insulation from my local automotive store. It was self stick and the side that faces the engine was foil lined. It was not cheap.

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The tread location is here Projects on my 1997 American Dream

The part about the insulation is quite a ways down.

[stkt]

Thanks Glenn. Your pics are excellent. Surprise, the top of my engine compartment isn't anything like that shown in your pics. Mine is one piece of insulation approximately 23x54". You seem to show three "frames". Did you add this?

I called American Coach and they sell the insulation. Its only a sound absorber, not heat reflective, the original stuff that was on my coach. They get $67 per sheet and 72x54" I believe is the sheet size. It will take two sheets to do the entire compartment. I'm debating whether to replace it with the original or go with a combination heat reflector/sound absorber like it appears you selected for your coach.

[GlennLever]

Originally Posted by stkt

Thanks Glenn. Your pics are excellent. Surprise, the top of my engine compartment isn't anything like that shown in your pics. Mine is one piece of insulation approximately 23x54". You seem to show three "frames". Did you add this?

I called American Coach and they sell the insulation. Its only a sound absorber, not heat reflective, the original stuff that was on my coach. They get $67 per sheet and 72x54" I believe is the sheet size. It will take two sheets to do the entire compartment. I'm debating whether to replace it with the original or go with a combination heat reflector/sound absorber like it appears you selected for your coach.

Mine was one sheet also, but I could not get a single sheet with the backer board into the engine compartment. That is why I created the three sheets.

The heat reflective sound deading material I believe was $80 for enough to do the ceiling. That is more expensive that the material you can get from American Coach.

I think the heat reflective material is worth it though. The bedroom and the bed is much cooler after running down the road. I am going to do the engine cover with the same material and expect it to make the bed much cooler.

This is a picture of the original insulation and the panels I made.

[stkt]

Great idea. Heat reflection in addition to sound absorption sounds like the way to go. I've got some samples coming from GT Sound Control. They've got 50,80,and 110 mil combo products (gtsoundcontrol.com). I'll post info once received.

[stkt]

The rear of the engine and compartment, less the insulation is complete - but still far to go. Thought I would share a pic of some of the products I use in detailing the underside of the coach.

[stkt]

And here is the result - 12 hours in so far:

[zmotorsports]

Originally Posted by stkt

The rear of the engine and compartment, less the insulation is complete - but still far to go. Thought I would share a pic of some of the products I use in detailing the underside of the coach.

Originally Posted by stkt

And here is the result - 12 hours in so far:

Looks great.

I use many of those same products and amazingly, they work on Monaco's as well as American coaches.

Mike.

[stkt]

Thx Mike. Still have a long way to go. Haven't decided on the insulation yet but need to make a decision in the next few days.

One of my goals in life is to open a can of POR15, stir it, pour it, secure the lid, paint, cleanup and topcoat without getting that stuff on me somewhere! Not there yet.

Once on your skin and dried, POR15 does not come off!

[zmotorsports]

Originally Posted by stkt

Thx Mike. Still have a long way to go. Haven't decided on the insulation yet but need to make a decision in the next few days.

One of my goals in life is to open a can of POR15, stir it, pour it, secure the lid, paint, cleanup and topcoat without getting that stuff on me somewhere! Not there yet.

Once on your skin and dried, POR15 does not come off!

Good luck with that. I have been using POR-15 for many years now and even when wearing latex gloves and changing containers I still end up wearing some of it.

Don't worry though, it only takes a couple of weeks to wear off.

Mike.

[Mysloride]

WOW...I have learned so much about my coach by reading you guys post

Thanks for taking the time to post all of this.

I am also thinking that I may need to get a second job to afford some of these repairs

I asked my lady if I could get a second job waiting tables at a local strip club too help pay for some of these repairs.

She said old, balding, skinny legged, fat boys with no ass, were just not in demand these days and she thought I would probably drink more than I could make...dang the bad luck