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11-23-2013, 03:59 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,115
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1999 American Dream - Where is the water pump relay?
Can someone tell me where the water pump relay is located?
It is Saturday morning, tech support have gone home for the weekend, and now the water pump switches stop working. How do they know?
None of the four water pump switches will turn on the relay (red status light). The 15 amp fuse under the bed is good.
I am trying to read the electrical drawings in the downloaded owner manual, but the scan resolution is very poor.
Any help would be appreciated.
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11-23-2013, 04:42 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 116
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In my 2004 Bounder the latching relay for the multiple water pump switches is behind the circuit breaker panel in the same enclosure as the air conditioning delay relay and the gen/shore transfer switch. I also mounted my progressive industries power monitor in the same enclosure. My rig has a television cabinet adjacent to this enclosure with an access panel to the area behind the circuit breaker panel which made access to the various modules back there easier than pulling the circuit breaker panel out far enough to work around it.
__________________
Dave & Lynne - Retired & livin' the dream. '04 Bounder W32 on Workhorse W20 chassis powered by GM 8.1L. Visited all 50 states during first 5 years of retirement.
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11-23-2013, 05:49 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,043
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It's like an easter egg hunt isn't it? While I don't know the exact location on your coach I can tell you odd places that I have found them on others. In the bay containing the water pump behind a removable panel. Back inside a false panel underneath the kitchenette. Back inside a false panel next to the refrigerator. If all else fails you can wire 12VDC direct to the water pump itself temporarily until you locate the controller and or determine that the controller is indeed the problem - will get you out of a bind if you're on the road currently.
__________________
94-Newmar Kountry Star 40-KSDP
Spartan/Cummins 8.3C-300HP/Allison 3060 WTEC-II/25yr RV Tech RVIA Certified/Onan-Cummins Certified
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11-23-2013, 06:45 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: N.E. Florida
Posts: 1,397
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Your American Dream is not a Bounder.
Join this group and you will have a better chance of someone giving you the correct advice:
Yahoo Groups
__________________
DaveS
1998 American Eagle 40EVS
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11-23-2013, 07:10 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,115
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I see several others have also stepped into the Bounder trap on the new thread screen. When you drop down the RV Type list box, the only choice is Bounder. As you try to scroll down for more choices, you inadvertently choose Bounder.
Yes, it is an Easter egg hunt. Perfect analogy. After thinking positive thoughts and wishfully pressing the water pump buttons many times, I finally braved the Kentucky cold and removed the water pump cover in the water compartment. There is a brown box on the left wall of the compartment labeled:
Intellitec
MPX low side 7 amp latching controller
Lugs: +12, Gnd, SW, Load
Because of the wiring harnesses, I can't confirm that the pump is attached to it, but it looks promising.
Does "low side" imply that load connects to Gnd instead of +12?
Thanks for your feedback. After thawing my hands over breakfast, I will give it a try.
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11-23-2013, 07:15 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,043
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__________________
94-Newmar Kountry Star 40-KSDP
Spartan/Cummins 8.3C-300HP/Allison 3060 WTEC-II/25yr RV Tech RVIA Certified/Onan-Cummins Certified
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11-23-2013, 09:23 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,115
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Thank you! Your document tells me exactly what I needed to know.
But not so fast. I went out to test voltages on the controller. Turns out the manufacturer installed two other items after the controller; a large wiring harness and water plumbing. Neither can be easily moved out of the way. I have only been able to pull off the first (+12v) lug to determine that the module is in fact getting power. One of the mounting screws is accessible, the other is not. It will have to wait till we get to a warmer state (maybe tomorrow). Why did I think I could pull one module out of a socket and insert a replacement?
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11-23-2013, 10:00 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,043
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Hehehe.. yea, the cold weather certainly prevents the fingers from performing very well and plays havoc on your give-a-$h1t-ometer :-)
__________________
94-Newmar Kountry Star 40-KSDP
Spartan/Cummins 8.3C-300HP/Allison 3060 WTEC-II/25yr RV Tech RVIA Certified/Onan-Cummins Certified
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11-23-2013, 10:51 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,115
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As it turns out, upper management had an issue with the 'tomorrow' plan.
A 5/16 socket (short, not long, 1/4" drive, not 3/8") plus a small hand/arm and about an hour of effort later, the Intellitec box, though not removed, will at least swivel enough to pull off the Gnd and Load lugs and short them with an alligator clip and some tape. Its cold out there, but at least the furnace kicked in to provide some heat and carbon monoxide.
If I need to turn off the pump for some reason, I can pull the fuse under the bed.
Now 'everybody' is happy, and we thank you for your help.
On the road again....
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11-23-2013, 11:02 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwelveVolt
As it turns out, upper management had an issue with the 'tomorrow' plan.
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Haha!
__________________
94-Newmar Kountry Star 40-KSDP
Spartan/Cummins 8.3C-300HP/Allison 3060 WTEC-II/25yr RV Tech RVIA Certified/Onan-Cummins Certified
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11-23-2013, 05:02 PM
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: In a lawnchair
Posts: 11,993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwelveVolt
I see several others have also stepped into the Bounder trap on the new thread screen. When you drop down the RV Type list box, the only choice is Bounder. As you try to scroll down for more choices, you inadvertently choose Bounder.
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Fixed that for ya.
__________________
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11-25-2013, 12:53 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 37
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It's very apparent that you have not found the small monkey that came with your coach. He's the only chance in hell you have of removing that controller . Had to replace mine with a 10 amp to run a bigger pump. Left the 7 amp where it was and re-mounted the new one.
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11-25-2013, 04:32 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devans47
It's very apparent that you have not found the small monkey that came with your coach. He's the only chance in hell you have of removing that controller . Had to replace mine with a 10 amp to run a bigger pump. Left the 7 amp where it was and re-mounted the new one.
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The pump looks fairly new. Can't quite make out the model number or current draw on the label, but I am wondering if the new pump may draw more than 7 amps and caused the circuit driver to eventually fail.
Haven't found the monkey yet, but I suspect he may be fooling around in here somewhere. Last night the jacks would not work for the first time. Realized I don't know where the reservoir dip stick is. So much to learn, so much fun doing it.
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11-25-2013, 10:08 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 37
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Ive found my trusty iphone can help the monkey out. When working on the water pump I put a light thru the access panel then stick my phone (camera) in and take lots of pics. While typing this I had a vision. If you have 2 phones with facetime capabilities . You can put one in and watch with the other. Live TV. I actually moved my pump to the front of the panel . I had installed Shurflo 5.7 pump that required a 10 amp latching controller. After replacing the 2nd or 3rd under warranty, I got it out of the monkey hole. Finally gave up and switched to 4008 and had no more problems.
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