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Old 10-28-2022, 11:16 PM   #1
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Question 2002 Fleetwood Bounder 32H need help with trailer brake controller install

Hello! New member here and it’s great to be a part of the RV community!

In February 2022 I purchased our first Motorhome for the family(wife and 2 kids, 4 and 6) It’s a 2002 Fleetwood Bounder 32H, 62,000 miles, it’s a very clean and good shape, was well cared for. My first drive home from purchasing it was around a 1 hour drive and a bit windy, it was rocking back and fourth and a bit difficult to drive. So I ordered some items to help with the handling.

1. New shocks all around
2. Front and Rear anti-sway bars
3. Front and Rear track bars
4. Blue Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer
5. All new tires

These new items made an incredible improvement in the handling.

We have taking it out a few times in the past coming months to a few beach’s, lakes, camp grounds. We all really love it! So winter is coming up and that is off-roading season for us.

I purchased a small utility trailer for our Polaris SXS. Trailer has a braking axle, so my question is should I get/install a trailer brake controller? Total weight for the trailer and side by side loaded is around 3K. I tried to look for the blue wire under the dash or some sort of harness but can’t find anything(LOTS of wires so maybe I missed it?)

I search all over the web and can’t find any info about a trailer brake controller install for this 2002 Fleetwood bounder 32H.

The previous owner did pull a toad so I’m assuming it has the tow package?

If anyone can help would be great! We are going on our trip in 2 weeks so need to know if I need one, and if I do how to go about installing.

I did see Curt makes the wireless unit that plugs between the RV and trailer through the 7 pin. It’s an option because if the RV doesn’t have the harness I don’t really want to run wiring from the rear to dash.

Thank you for your time and looking forward to anyone’s help!

Thank you
Pete
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Old 10-29-2022, 12:35 AM   #2
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Trailer brakes are required by law in most states at 3000 lb. trailer weight.

Trailer brakes are a good safety tool at any weight.

You could check the trailer connector to see if there is a wire connected to the terminal for brakes. If you hold open the cover and look at the terminals, the brake terminal is located at 4:30 on a clock face. It's wire is often but not always, blue in color. If no connection or wire going forward from connector, it is not wired presently. If you find a wire, try and trace it.

As for the Curt wireless device, I read that they work well on shorter distances. The maximum distance they are rated for is 50 feet. In your motorhome, I suspect you are 35 ft or so. With walls, fridge & bed between driver and device, it would have to be tested to know.
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Old 10-29-2022, 01:45 AM   #3
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Thank you for the reply, I will get the trailer brake controller for sure. I did check inside the connector today and all the pins were there but I need to unscrew it to see if there is a wire in the rear, can do that tomorrow. Iíve been watching videos and reading about the curt echo and I do like how it works. Just needs the initial set up, and itís saying even if the phone is not around or on another app the device will work as it was programmed last. Once of the videos the guy programmed it and left his phone at home to do the test drive and it still worked as programmed, was thinking if the distance is too far or too much obstructions between I can program next to it and it will work as normal. Tomorrow I will check the harness and see the next steps. Thank you for your help!

If anyone has some more info or opinions Iím open for all the info I can get!

Thank you!
Pete
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Old 10-29-2022, 04:42 AM   #4
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Pete-

First off, welcome to iRV2!

Second, you should add a "signature" to your profile. It contains whatever info you want; most people put info about their coach there, so they don't have to type it into each message. Instructions for adding a signature are here.

Re: Trailer electric brake controller: What chassis is under your Bounder- diesel, Ford or Workhorse?

If Ford, the trailer electric brake controller wiring should be available for use, and depending on what controller you buy you may be able to have a "plug and play" installation.
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Old 10-29-2022, 09:59 AM   #5
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Hello! Chassis is a workhorse w22. Thanks you for that information, I have added a profile picture and a signature. I went on a search this morning for a curt echo! Thought this would save a lot of time and hassle with the wiring I already spent almost an hour searching under the dash for. For a great deal on a used one the guy sold his trailer and doesn’t need any longer. $140! I’ll get to installing it next week and come back here to update everyone. Thought me spending $140 on an echo is pretty good compared to some wired units that are more expensive. The seller told me if it doesn’t work for me I can return it to him since I was unsure about the distance. So I figured it’s a win win.

Will be back here next week for an update on my set up!

Thank you
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Old 11-08-2022, 04:21 PM   #6
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So I have an '02 bounder, but diesel/freightliner.

after extensive research, I found there's a pigtail under the dash for diesel that the controller plugs into. I looked up a compatability guide, and it said that I couldn't connect a controller, another site said I had to switch wires around on the pigtail.

But at the end of the day, I didn't need to do anything, it worked right off.

I don't know anything about your gas bounder, but just google around, you'll find something.
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Old 11-08-2022, 05:06 PM   #7
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I have a 2008 37C Southwind gas in a workhorse chassis. I went through the same thing a couple years back and could not find anything that would allow a plug and play brake controller. I did however find a lone blue wire hanging under the dash but not until I gave up and bought the Curt wireless controller. Would still like to try someday to see if the blue wire is actually the brake wire. Anyway I have used the Curt wireless controller for a few trips now and seems to work well. The only issue I have is it doesn't stay connected account of the Coach it does say that it functions on last setting if connection is lost but would be nice to be able to apply the brakes if you needed to.
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Old 11-08-2022, 11:34 PM   #8
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Hello!! Iím back from a work trip and I will set up the Curt wireless controller Thursday morning! Leaving on a trip with the family the same day, so hope all going smooth with the rv/trailer set up.

As long as it saves the last setting and applies the trailer brake when I press the RV brakes all will be great. Before I start driving I do like to test the trailer brakes by pressing the controller button to confirm the trailer brakes are working, but after that I donít usually press the trailer brake button.

If anyone has some setup tips or tricks for the Curt wireless system to my iPhone that would be great! Any help is much appreciated
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Old 11-13-2022, 06:13 PM   #9
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Hello!

So I just got back from my trip, unfortunately the brake controller didnít work with my RV because I guess when my rv was wired for the 7 pin they didnít wire the top right pin(consistent 12v) and the wireless brake unit couldnít get any power! I figured this out after trying to make it work myself for 20 minutes with no luck and called Curt to ask whatís the problem and was informed of this. Top right pin needs to have consistent 12v to power on the Curt unit. Even though my trailer lights all work, he told me they will still work from the RV power sending to the lights, but no power to the top right pin. So now I need to wire the prong on the 7 pin top right to a consistent 12v supply thatís always on! Please if anyone knows the easiest way to do this let me know.

Thank you
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Old 11-13-2022, 06:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002bound32 View Post
Hello!

So I just got back from my trip, unfortunately the brake controller didnít work with my RV because I guess when my rv was wired for the 7 pin they didnít wire the top right pin(consistent 12v) and the wireless brake unit couldnít get any power! I figured this out after trying to make it work myself for 20 minutes with no luck and called Curt to ask whatís the problem and was informed of this. Top right pin needs to have consistent 12v to power on the Curt unit. Even though my trailer lights all work, he told me they will still work from the RV power sending to the lights, but no power to the top right pin. So now I need to wire the prong on the 7 pin top right to a consistent 12v supply thatís always on! Please if anyone knows the easiest way to do this let me know.

Thank you
Here's a picture of the trailer connector and the trailer plug.

The first thing I would do is access the rear of the connector and see if a wire is connected to the top right terminal or not. If no wire exists, you have little choice but to run a wire to a fused (or circuit breaker) 12V positive source. Be aware that any trailer you tow that has a battery onboard may be wired to that pin for trailer battery charging. Use adequate wire gauge for fuse amp rating used. A low trailer battery may blow the fuse when charge rate exceeds amp rating.

If you find a wire connected to the top right pin, trace it forward to find fuse, breaker or perhaps it was never connected up.
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Old 11-13-2022, 11:46 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by code2e View Post
Here's a picture of the trailer connector and the trailer plug.

The first thing I would do is access the rear of the connector and see if a wire is connected to the top right terminal or not. If no wire exists, you have little choice but to run a wire to a fused (or circuit breaker) 12V positive source. Be aware that any trailer you tow that has a battery onboard may be wired to that pin for trailer battery charging. Use adequate wire gauge for fuse amp rating used. A low trailer battery may blow the fuse when charge rate exceeds amp rating.

If you find a wire connected to the top right pin, trace it forward to find fuse, breaker or perhaps it was never connected up.
Thank you so much for this great information!! I will unscrew the 4 bolts that are holding the 7 pin connection on the rv tomorrow or next day and see whatís going on, picture is really helpful, hoping the wire is there and maybe a breaker tripped or fuse is bad from previous owner. Will keep you updated on my findings. If there is no wire is there any consistent 12v near the rear of the rv?(something standard or?) since it needs to always be on does that mean when the rv is off the Curt unit will be on also? Just wondering whatís the best way to wire this? Maybe a relay with a fuse?(if no wire is already installed) running all the way up to the engine battery?
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Old 11-14-2022, 12:08 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by 2002bound32 View Post
Thank you so much for this great information!! I will unscrew the 4 bolts that are holding the 7 pin connection on the rv tomorrow or next day and see whatís going on, picture is really helpful, hoping the wire is there and maybe a breaker tripped or fuse is bad from previous owner. Will keep you updated on my findings. If there is no wire is there any consistent 12v near the rear of the rv?(something standard or?) since it needs to always be on does that mean when the rv is off the Curt unit will be on also? Just wondering whatís the best way to wire this? Maybe a relay with a fuse?(if no wire is already installed) running all the way up to the engine battery?
If your trailer connector is wired 12v constant, the Curt device would be drawing some power when RV is off. Curt may be able to tell you how much draw, but only way to stop draw would be to unplug.

I do not know where your battery banks are located. Either chassis or house positive 12V will work. Ground is common for both. Battery would be the best source, especially if you go higher amp to allow for battery charging.

Using a relay would be good and eliminate need to unplug. Relay primary could be fed from a fuse tap in underhood fuse center, no need to wire under dash inside.
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Old 11-14-2022, 10:10 PM   #13
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If your trailer connector is wired 12v constant, the Curt device would be drawing some power when RV is off. Curt may be able to tell you how much draw, but only way to stop draw would be to unplug.

I do not know where your battery banks are located. Either chassis or house positive 12V will work. Ground is common for both. Battery would be the best source, especially if you go higher amp to allow for battery charging.

Using a relay would be good and eliminate need to unplug. Relay primary could be fed from a fuse tap in underhood fuse center, no need to wire under dash inside.
My trailer is a flatbed with no battery, just a 20ft open utility trailer.

I will take apart the 7 pin on the coach and check the wiring. Will share my findings. If itís not wired for 12v I would like to wire it so the 12v comes on only when the ignition is on with an in-line fuse. (If you know the easiest was for this Iím open to suggestions)

Will post my results either Saturday or Sunday, as we are headed out again on Wednesday of next week.
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Old 11-14-2022, 10:40 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 2002bound32 View Post
My trailer is a flatbed with no battery, just a 20ft open utility trailer.

I will take apart the 7 pin on the coach and check the wiring. Will share my findings. If it’s not wired for 12v I would like to wire it so the 12v comes on only when the ignition is on with an in-line fuse. (If you know the easiest was for this I’m open to suggestions)

Will post my results either Saturday or Sunday, as we are headed out again on Wednesday of next week.
I knew the trailer you currently use had no battery. I was referring to any other trailer you might tow in the future. In case you wanted charging ability.

If you end up running a wire and only want it to power the Curt device, 14 gauge would do. You could run it up front, under the "hood". There should be a fuse box that has a few circuits that are ignition fed. They make "Fuse Taps" that contain a fuse and plug in along with a current fuse. Thus tapping off fused power for a low current use. NAPA has them, as well as many other stores. That will save you from cutting into any wiring on the coach. No need for a relay either.
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