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Old 10-05-2021, 01:43 PM   #1
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2004 Discovery Coolant Reservoir/Tank

2004 Discovery Coolant Reservoir/Tank - I need to replace mine since it's apparently dry rotted or gotten brittle over time and is cracked and either leaking or just plain blew out yesterday.

Long story short - I put around 1700 miles on it in the last 8 days w/o incident until within 25 miles of home. All hunky dory until the "CHECK CONTROL PANEL" idiot light illuminates on the dash, I look down and it's telling me I have an engine overtemp issue going on! I KNOW I just scanned the gauges a moment ago so I look over at the temp gauge and it is PEGGED on H!! Like WTH?? Turn signal on, double lane change for the exit, coast in to a stop, but by the time I stop at the light at the end of the offramp the temp is now BELOW half and 'normal'...like really? So I look in between the back of the rv and my trailer I'm towing as I pull forward and nothing on the ground, nada. Well that's curious...so maybe a pesky plastic bag got sucked up into the radiator and then cleared itself I'm thinking...keep monitoring gauges, all in the normal or good ranges, oil temp, pressure, coolant temp, engine temps, all good/normal. So I ease on back to the race shop. I get there and clearly all is not okay. Upon stopping I REALLY take a look and looks like the coolant reservoir is at least leaking, looks cracked in several areas, potentially leaking from those - it is old plastic and been on my list for replacement for some time - AND - clearly there is coolant that has leaked/blown all over the place, hard to tell level in the tank as the plastic is so fogged/stained it's hard to tell without opening it up and obviously not doing that since it's hot. I dive underneath for a peek and EXCELLENT...there is oil RUNNING down the side of the engine like some midget is in the closet access pouring quarts gleefully down on top of the engine...SWEET...BUT, again, the gauges still read fine...and the motor sounds perfectly happy. Got a heck of a mess, but otherwise IDK. I still need to actually pull the closet access cover and look over the top of the motor and everything for a cause of the oil and coolant blowouts, but suffice to say, after nearly 1700 miles w/o issue, the last 25 or so were a mess. THEN, I try to back my trailer into my warehouse only to find while I've been gone for 8 days...one tension spring on my huge overhead door has broken...that's a whole nuther story/issue. So everything is parked outside now waiting on a overhead door repair guy...before I can unload and assess the coolant/oil blowout on the rv.

Anyone have a replacement part number or know where to get a new coolant reservoir for one of these? Would it be Freightliner since that's the chassis, CAT since that's the engine or ?? Honestly it appears it's going to be a JOY to replace, but definitely needs to now and I'm not back out on the road til second week of November so I have time to get the parts and time to replace it. The concern of course is the oil and I'll have to see if it blew a oil line or something and also see if I can find the cause of the instant overheating which came and went as suddenly.

Yay for motorhomes...lol
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Old 10-05-2021, 02:21 PM   #2
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Rear rad ?

Freightliner for the part .

Side radiator , there are aftermarket that will work , with some adapting .
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Old 10-06-2021, 05:30 PM   #3
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This is the part number that fit my Bounder with a freightliner 05-17750-002 I ordered it from find it parts
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Old 10-07-2021, 09:27 AM   #4
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Rear rad ?

Freightliner for the part .

Side radiator , there are aftermarket that will work , with some adapting .
Rear radiator...the "fun one" to replace...
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Old 10-07-2021, 09:27 AM   #5
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This is the part number that fit my Bounder with a freightliner 05-17750-002 I ordered it from find it parts
Seems like they are the cheapest/quickest to get the part from too.

Thx!
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:18 AM   #6
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You can replace the overflow tank without removing the radiator. Don't fall for that ruse. My mobile repair guy did it in my driveway. It took two hours.



LL
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Old 10-19-2021, 02:35 PM   #7
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Spencer A . I have a 2007 Discovery with the Cat engine . Over 10 years I have replaced two surge tanks . It is about a two to three hour job depending on how young and flexible you are . Message me with a phone # and I will tell you what I know. We live in Fort Myers , Fl. Walter
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Old 10-19-2021, 03:59 PM   #8
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Spencer A . I have a 2007 Discovery with the Cat engine . Over 10 years I have replaced two surge tanks . It is about a two to three hour job depending on how young and flexible you are . Message me with a phone # and I will tell you what I know. We live in Fort Myers , Fl. Walter
Can you write up a simple "how to do" list of what you did? We have had our 2006 Discovery w/Cat for 12 years now and so far its the same tank, but I want to be prepared.
Thanks
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Old 10-20-2021, 08:13 AM   #9
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I replaced mine about 10 years ago. I'm sure I bought at freightliner.

This reservoir is not made with UV protected materials, and this is why it fails.

To keep the sun off it, make a 'cover' of sorts from a piece of a mudflap or similar.
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Old 10-20-2021, 11:17 AM   #10
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Spencer A . I have a 2007 Discovery with the Cat engine . Over 10 years I have replaced two surge tanks . It is about a two to three hour job depending on how young and flexible you are . Message me with a phone # and I will tell you what I know. We live in Fort Myers , Fl. Walter
Yeah, I think I got it done in 3hrs total. The two passenger side bolts were the most fun, lucky I have a stupid amount of and assortment of tools. Wish I had longer/thinner arms tho...lol

Now I need to replace the front left oil galley plug on the top of the motor that is leaking. Got the plug and oring, bedroom floorboard is out, now just need to get up in there with a 1/2" impact and get it out, supposedly it's put in with 260ft lb of torque...YAY

Oh, and replace most of the house battery cables that the ends have corroded off...

IT NEVER ENDS WITH A MOTORHOME
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Old 10-20-2021, 11:27 AM   #11
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I heard the bolts on the passenger side were really bad to get at. Did you fine a particular wrench that worked best?

Speaking of hard to get to bolts, have you ever tried to tightened the water pump belt? OMG, I think I'll get a flexible head retching box wrench. The belt on my Cat C7 was so loose I could almost slip it off on the pully just using my fingers.


I also replaced the battery cables. I bought them ready made, sealed and with heave terminals. After installing them I coated the terminals with Silicon grease. That was two years ago and they are still in excellent shape.
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Old 10-21-2021, 08:11 AM   #12
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I heard the bolts on the passenger side were really bad to get at. Did you fine a particular wrench that worked best?

Speaking of hard to get to bolts, have you ever tried to tightened the water pump belt? OMG, I think I'll get a flexible head retching box wrench. The belt on my Cat C7 was so loose I could almost slip it off on the pully just using my fingers.


I also replaced the battery cables. I bought them ready made, sealed and with heave terminals. After installing them I coated the terminals with Silicon grease. That was two years ago and they are still in excellent shape.
-------
The back bolt on the passenger side I removed from the back. Put it back in from the closet...basically laying down contorted like some beast in a horror flick...lol Gear Wrench makes some box end wrenches that work well, other than that it's really just being a circus freak to get in there...

I've done all the belts on the motor, it's a two person job at minimum to do really, one working from top, one from bottom. A huge assortment of tools, my MAC Tool guy was my best friend for a while...

Yeah, I definitely need to coat them with silicone grease when I replace them. I too purchased mostly premade cables, but a couple main leads were bad too so I purchased a kit and ends off Amazon for redoing down to 2awg battery cables.
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Old 10-22-2021, 10:02 AM   #13
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This is how I replaced our surge tank . We have a 2007 Discovery 39V . I could not reach the bolts from inside the coach or engine compartment . Working from the rear (grill side ) of the radiator I used a small sawsall and a Dremel tool with a plastic cutting disc . I cut the main part of the tank away from the tank ends with the mounting holes . Remove the tank and you will be able to reach the mounting tabs and bolts . Remove the bolts and remaining mounts . When installing the new tank use speed nuts to make the installation easier . (Google speed nuts if you are not familiar with them . ) Replacing the fluid level sensor is advised . I purchased the tank at my local Freightliner dealer
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