American Coach: 2007 Revolution LE 40E fresh water tank drain

[Stonehands]

Hello Friends.

Hopefully I am not wasting everyones time on my lack of hot water problem you have all been so good about trying to help.

Today, on lunch break I decided to pull the replacement mixing valve and plumb it without a valve. just a brass nipple with a ball valve into the back, took off the line for the cold water into the mixing valve and just run it with the hot water.

When I pulled off the mixing valve and took into the house to see if the cap could be removed to adjust temperature if needed I looked inside the valve piece that screws into the back of the water heater. You know the one with the screen in it.

100% plugged with gunk and sediment. No way hot water could come out of it. Change of plan now is to clean and re install and see what I get. Will not message back till I set up all up so as to now waste anyones time. If this is it, I will have confirmed it was something simple.

I AM ALSO GOING TO PULL THE DRAIN PLUG OUT OF THE FRONT AND FLUSH THE TANK SEVERAL TIMES. WILL ALSO PUT A HOSE INTO THE TANK TO SEE IF I CAN FLUSH OUT ANY LOOSE CALCIUM AND CRUD.

[mchero]

Can you remove that black cap on the mixing valve? If not removable can you twist the black cap to adjust temp?
If so i would run hot water only at kitchen sink and adjust to 120 or 130 degrees.

[Tha_Rooster]

Sounds like a plan, hopefully solves your problem.

[Stonehands]

Originally Posted by mchero

Can you remove that black cap on the mixing valve? If not removable can you twist the black cap to adjust temp?
If so i would run hot water only at kitchen sink and adjust to 120 or 130 degrees.

There appears to be a plug in there middle of the cap but I didn't pry it off yet. I tried lightly with a very small screwdriver but it didn't budge. I am going to try it regardless.


Thank you mchero.

[Stonehands]

Originally Posted by Tha_Rooster

Sounds like a plan, hopefully solves your problem.

Will sure let you know Rooster. I at least owe ya that. lolol

[Piros1]

While you are at it remove your anode rod and check it. If you have that much gunk it most likely has disintegrated. Plus a lot of the time they are low in the tank and may give you a low point with a larger opening to flus the tank out.
My coach does not have a conventional hot water heater but several of my previous RV’s did. I use to flush and drain my hot water heater after every trip and change my anode rod annually. Thus is a good practice to get into considering you are most likely running hard water in your system. If you are full timing then I would recommend every six months to flush. Never hurts to over maintain. Good luck and I hope you have resolved your problem.

[Stonehands]

I hadn’t thought about the anode rod Piros, great idea.

I will pull it out as well and check. Thank you.

[Tha_Rooster]

Originally Posted by Stonehands

I hadn’t thought about the anode rod Piros, great idea.



I will pull it out as well and check. Thank you.

Don’t think you have one in your water heater.

[mchero]

Atwood water heaters do not have anode rod.

[2dasand2]

Hey guys, Stonehands..sorry to hi jack your thread, but I've been watching this and I am intrigued. I have a 2005 Rev 40E, like yours (just a couple years older). I have a couple problems with my water heater that I have not sorted out yet. I don't seem to have electric function (LP mode works great). I haven't looked into that yet, but assuming bad element. My bigger problem is that balancing hot/cold water is extremely difficult, especially in the shower. In reading this, I don't find a mixing valve on the back of my water heater. I do have an Atwood GC10A-4E. To me, it doesn't appear that anyone has messed with the plumbing on the back of the unit, but I don't see the mixing valve anywhere, like shown in your pictures above. Is it possible that someone has removed it (maybe it failed)?

This might explain my difficulty balancing hot.cold water if I am missing this!

[mchero]

No mixing valve on the GC10A-4E
Google Atwood GC10A-4E service manual.
Make sure your bypass valve is set right and the outside shower valves are off. Also clean faucet screens.

[Stonehands]

Correct Rooster. I was going to report back that I removed the petcock drain plug and discovered that my tank did not have a anode today.

Was that standard practice on the Revolution Rooster? Did they come standard without anode rods?

I just ordered a pair to install. Wonder if they didn’t include anode rods as the tanks were aluminum and not steel like the Suburban units?

[Tha_Rooster]

Originally Posted by Stonehands

Correct Rooster. I was going to report back that I removed the petcock drain plug and discovered that my tank did not have a anode today.

Was that standard practice on the Revolution Rooster? Did they come standard without anode rods?

I just ordered a pair to install. Wonder if they didn’t include anode rods as the tanks were aluminum and not steel like the Suburban units?

Our water heaters we have, manufacturer does not install them because no need since as you say tanks are made of aluminum.I would pull plug and flush real good with water? I don’t think you can install one with our design. So say you have a petcock drain plug, they come standard with a plastic plug which you can get at any home improvement store when removed it would flush better.

[Almost There]

Originally Posted by Stonehands

Correct Rooster. I was going to report back that I removed the petcock drain plug and discovered that my tank did not have a anode today.

Was that standard practice on the Revolution Rooster? Did they come standard without anode rods?

I just ordered a pair to install. Wonder if they didn’t include anode rods as the tanks were aluminum and not steel like the Suburban units?

Something about your drawing isn’t sitting the right way with me. Can’t put my finger on it but thinking perhaps the ball valve MIGHT be in wrong place.
When I think about the way you have it in drawing it should work.
I had same issue probably 5 years ago. Ended up replacing mixing valve and it has been perfect ever since.

I went back to my photos and found one, unfortunately it doesn’t show the Tee fitting where mixing valve gets its cold water input but I am certain it was on the supply side of the ball valve.

Unfortunately my coach is in storage lot or I would take photos with more info.
Have attached the one that I have.

Hope it is of some benefit

Bob

Edit: When I go back again and look at drawing, the tee is on supply side of valve.
Guess I’m losing it after sitting home for so long.