Bounder: 2014 Bounder steps

[mojoracing]

Steps went out today. They are hanging down about half way. Checked the fuse in the bcc. It's getting power and is good. Light under stairs goes on when you open door but no power at the plug that goes to the motor. I have an idea what it is but I don't want to influence anyone else's answers. Any help would be appreciated.

[CLIFFTALL]

There are two fuses in the BCC. One for the switch and one for the motor.
Here's a diagram.

[CLIFFTALL]

Also check the ground wire (clean it to be sure it's making contact )

[mojoracing]

I checked both fuses. If the ones you are talking about are the 20a for the steps and the one just below it, a 3a. Both are fine. Using a test light, I have power to both sides of the fuses. The ground appears to be good. There are two wires with a compression fitting that go into the motor. I'm assuming one is power and one is ground. I hooked a test light to a good ground and tested both wires with the test light and can't get it to light.i tested them while closing the door and opening the door. This tells me there is no power going to the motor. I'm thinking the control module is shot and not putting power out. Is my thinking correct?

[mojoracing]

I assume there is power going into the module as the light under the stairs is going on and off when you open or close the door but no power coming out of module to motor.

[CLIFFTALL]

Sometimes power to what appears to be a good fuse turns out to be a bad fuse. I'd try different ones before you go for a new module. Then , even though the ground " looks good " , I'd clean up the connection.

[rmueller]

I just did a fix on ours, same coach. For me it was either one of two things due to sitting over winter, the motor armature was on a dead spot for whatever reason or the clevis or some of the mechanicals were a bit rusty/sticky providing too much resistance.

The design is such that over-current controls where the stairs stop (caused by any resistance). So, if something is bound then they stop or don't start at all.

First thing, does the light come on (orange under stairs) - check fuses

Second, unplug the motor connector, clean it out and wiggle it back in place. - Just bad design, a little corrosion looks like over-current to the controller and it shuts down the motor. If I do a sloppy job of topping off my batteries, the water/acid overflow drips down all over stuff near the stairs - I put plastic tubes in to get the overflow away from wiring on the stairs. Might be why the connector gets funky now and again.

Third, undo the cotter pin on the clevis (this can take about an hour standing on your head - great fun. I conned my younger brother into doing this step).

Get everything out of the way and open/close the door to see if the motor moves without being bound by any mechanicals. If it doesn't move then your right, controller or motor is toasted. You can test the motor by applying 12v to the proper pins on the connector to see if it moves without the controller.

The Kwiki website has a full blown manual and trouble shooting guide.

The manual shows you the lube points, if its never been done its a good idea to keep the mechanicals as free as possible.

Hope that helps...

ron

[z3406]

Is there any chance that the steps have a switch associated with the parking brake? I know what happens if you disengage the parking brake with the coach on the leveling jacks just wondering if there is a safety feature in the steps that is malfunctioning.

[computerguy]

Mine had a problem a few months back. Only came out a bit if I recall.
First I would check the grounds. And I mean really check them. Pull them off and clean them up. Second, when was the last time you lubed the stairs? This helps out a lot as their is less power needed to move the whole assembly.

Mine was a little bit of both. I now lube the steps monthly. The ground just had enough contact to make it seem like it was ok but under load it couldn't provide enough umph.
I also took my motor apart and looked at the brushes (they seemed fine).
I think I have a thread I created on the whole process on here somewhere.

[mojoracing]

Update. The stairs magically started working on their own. In the interim, the stairs move freely and have always been lubed. ground checked and redone even though it was good and stairs working. Like I figured, fuses were good. The problem now is that when they come out or retract, the gear box is making and aweful grinding noise. The gears are skipping and it runs and grinds for about 5 seconds when it fully retracts or comes out. They also need help to retract as it seems the gears are barely making contact and just grinding. I guess its time for a new motor? Im guessing it not only had a flat spot which caused the initial issue of not working at all and now the gears are shot. Anybody concur or have other ideas? Ive got to check and see if there is a rebuild kit or I know there is a cross reference for a power window motor but I foret what make and model it comes off of.

[CLIFFTALL]

I ordered my replacement from this Co. It was about seven years ago and they were great to deal with. There's two types and they can assist in determining which one you need.
AM Equipment : 214 Series Gearhead Motor, 12V, RH Housing [214-1001] - $72.87

[rmueller]

This is what you need, the nylon gear stripped. This is caused by either sticking - needs lube, or someone/something abruptly stopped the motion before the current-limiter stopped the motor ...on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a real easy install (other than standing on your head for 20mins). You don't need to worry about the position of the stairs, just install run the most conveniently position. The first time you open/close the door the stairs will seek their limit and stop in the correct position. Might take a few times to get them in sync with the door open/close.

I doped the motor connector with a little liquid electrical tape to keep it dry.

ron

[Brian W]

Mojo,
I had the same issue on my 14 with the same exact symptoms. Had to replace the step motor. Relatively inexpensive fix.

[Phochief]

I recommend liberal use of dielectric grease on terminals, especially on connections exposed to possible corrosion or moisture. Just keep a tube of the stuff handy. Helps prevent a lot of future electrical connection problems.