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10-21-2016, 01:21 PM
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#1
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 53
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2016 Bounder 33C - GFCI keeps tripping (Internal to RV, not house GFCI)
Hello,
I searched this sub-forum and only got GFCI threads that pretty much only talked about GFCI outlets tripping inside a house when RV is connected to house shore power.
My issue is the circuit that the GFCI outlets are on, keeps tripping the outlet in the lavy where the reset/test outlet is located. Nothing is plugged into any of the rest of the outlets on the same circuit that I know of, and nothing has really changed. Yesterday I moved sites as the park is winterizing, and I ran from the genny while we moved as I was working and did not want to lose power. Once set back up at the new site, we had good shore power and all outlets functioned fine. Went to sleep, and this morning the circuit that has outlets in the lavy, kitchen area didn't work. Reset GFCI and they worked for a few minutes, then trip. Now when I reset, it will trip anywhere form 10-30 seconds. As I said, there is no loads on this circuit that I know of, but like many I keep thinking of current draw (ie circuit breakers) and not ground fault issue.
What would be the best way to trouble shoot this? Is this a common issue with RV GFCI? This is a new RV so I would hope the outlets them selves are not failing already. It is annoying they are the weird outlets that require a special crimping tool to wire them up.
Edit: To make sure I am giving clear info for replies..
- We are connected to 50A shore power at the park.
- The RV came with a neuteral loss protector.
- This only affects the GFCI circuit/leg. All other outlets function properly.
- The Magnum MR-ME panel shows no error codes.
- Magnum inverter shows slow blinking green LED (I am on shore power so I assume all 120VAC is supplied directly from it and not through the inverter.. since I'm not inverting DC to AC?)
- The power control systems panel shows wiring status ok, Neuteral = Ground.
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2016 Fleetwood Bounder 33C | 5Star | TM A1A | Saf-T-Plus | NSA ReadyBrute Elite | 2010 Jeep Wrangler JK Rubicon
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10-21-2016, 03:42 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,927
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I'd suspect a bad GCFI outlet. You can check that all connections in the breaker panel are tight, but you might just have to get a new GCFI and swap it out. Since it's a 2016, isn't it still under warranty?
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Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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10-21-2016, 03:53 PM
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#3
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 53
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It is, and I reached out to FW and waiting to hear back. Was seeing if there is something I may have missed... bummer.
__________________
2016 Fleetwood Bounder 33C | 5Star | TM A1A | Saf-T-Plus | NSA ReadyBrute Elite | 2010 Jeep Wrangler JK Rubicon
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10-21-2016, 03:59 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8,055
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GFCI's are so reliable that everyone should have a spare in their parts box. Swap it whenever there is a question.
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10-21-2016, 04:25 PM
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#5
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 53
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Do you mean to say reliable or did you mean unreliable? I have many spares for hot water heater, main engine, genny, basic fuses and other consumables. Did not think to keep outlets on hand.
Only issue there is, they use a proprietary outlet type that requires a special crimping like tool to terminate the romex to the outlet. Kind of a pain for me, but not while assembling the coach I suppose.
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2016 Fleetwood Bounder 33C | 5Star | TM A1A | Saf-T-Plus | NSA ReadyBrute Elite | 2010 Jeep Wrangler JK Rubicon
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10-21-2016, 04:31 PM
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#6
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Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 53
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Actually, possibly the GFCI outlet is not the "Self-Contained Designer Receptacle" that I am thinking of. I remember removing another outlet that is not on the GFI circuit and it was the SCD style. Maybe the GFCI outlet in the bathroom is a standard style outlet, easily replaceable. Looks like I have a breaker to turn off, and an outlet to take out when I get off work.
Its the whole self contained outlets that throw me off from a DIY perspective. Don't know how to deal with those.
Thanks northermark!
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2016 Fleetwood Bounder 33C | 5Star | TM A1A | Saf-T-Plus | NSA ReadyBrute Elite | 2010 Jeep Wrangler JK Rubicon
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10-21-2016, 08:31 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 821
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The GFI receptacles are in line with several other AC receptacles (some marked GGI protected) around water...like the bathroom, ice maker, washer, outside wet bar, etc. you need to get from Fleetwood the electrical drawings for your coach and find out which GFI is tripping and what AC receptacles are on that circuit. Then disconnect each appliance one at a time and determine the offending appliance.
You should email Fleetwood with your coach info and request all the 120/12 vdc electrical drawings...they will send you a pile of PDF files!
Good Luck
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John & Debbie
2008 Fleetwood Discovery 40X
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10-22-2016, 06:52 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Ellijay, Georgia
Posts: 84
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I had the same problem with my 2015 33C. Just replace the GFCI, you can pick one up at any Lowes or Home Depot. It's no big deal...
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10-22-2016, 07:34 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8,055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nehmia
Do you mean to say reliable or did you mean unreliable? I have many spares for hot water heater, main engine, genny, basic fuses and other consumables. Did not think to keep outlets on hand.
Only issue there is, they use a proprietary outlet type that requires a special crimping like tool to terminate the romex to the outlet. Kind of a pain for me, but not while assembling the coach I suppose.
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The "reliable" was sarcasm. They are a known high failure rate item. That is why replacement as a troubleshooting method is common.
If it uses some special sauce to connect to the Romex then cut them off and use a regular GFCI with *screws*. The push in and hope holes are also a known issue. Better than they used to be but not better than a screw.
If they used a pigtailed GFI and crimp connectors instead of wire nuts it is a slightly better connection but a poor application with a part where replacement is common.
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