Yep... I thought so. You have the same door handle I do on my 2004 Itasca 40AD.
Go to my entry on 12/19/17 on this post and to view more picture of the Trimark 010-0900 Lock:
Replaced my TriMark 030-0900 entry door & dead-bolt lock hardware - Winnebago Owners Online Community
Note: First I would try to adjust the lock to see if that is the problem. It doesn't take long.
Let me describe the procedure for you. It's very easy:
* Open the door and remove the cover plate glued to the end of the door. This will give you access to the nut. Then using a 12mm deep sock (1/4" drive) that fits in the hole... you can adjust the nut by following these procedures:
1. Keeping the door open... close rotor/latch to simulate the door locking.
2. Lock the handle from the inside (using the lower manual lock lever). Keep the door open.
3. While pulling
up on the inside handle, and keeping it pulled
up, turn the locking nut clockwise until the latch releases. This takes up the slack in the mechanism. Note, you may have to back-off the nut a few turns first.
4. Once the latch springs open, turn the nut counterclockwise 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns.
5. Now test the door lock. I.e., unlock the door and open the door from the inside handle.
Note: If possible have someone inside the RV while you remain outside.
6. CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE INSIDE HANDLE DOES NOT OPEN THE DOOR WHEN IT IS LOCKED. RECHECK. AND RECHECK NORMAL OPERATION AGAIN.
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If the outside handle does not work after you adjust the lock then you may have to back the adjustment nut all the way to the end of the shaft, but do not remove the adjustment nut.
You then need to separate the the door handle parts. And I can't remember if you need to separate the halves completely. I don't think so. I seem to remember using long needle-nose pliers to bend the tab in the inside of the plate so it mates properly with the unlocking mechanism.
Then reassemble and adjust nut back to where you think it was positioned. (Keep a mental note of the remaining number of the treads on the end of the shaft for an approximate adjusting point to screw the nut back on. Then follow the adjustment instructions in the previous post.
In closing, my lock would sometimes catch (meaning open) and sometime just flop and leave me locked out. Did your lock do the same thing?
Further, the upper deadbolt and key are completely separate mechanisms.
TIP: Inspect the striker bolt screwed into the door frame, and if you find it warn on one side or top and bottom, then turn it 90-degrees so you have some fresh metal for the latch to catch on.
AND I HOPE YOU KEEP A SPARE SET OF KEYS HIDDEN. I can't tell you how many time I closed my door without intending to lock the front door, only for the lock pin (red from the inside) to fall down and lock the door.
Lucky for you I checked recent posts tonight. I rarely do that. Maybe twice a year. ...Glad to help! Let us know if you fixed it!