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Bigfoot_ · 10-31-2021, 12:41 PM

I am follow the step by step Fleetwood instructions to winterize as I do every year.

This is the first year with the brass replacement water valve. The coach has a washer/dryer.

Adding compressed air didn't bring the usual volume of water from the hot water heater drain or low point drains. I did drain them completely before putting air on and got plenty of water out of the heater.

There is a loud noise from behind the bedroom (35K layout) drawers. I removed them and found a loop up the wall to what looks like some kind of dry break. If I press the valve, I get air out and the noise stops. So it looks like the problem is downstream from there.

I am not getting air out of any faucet - zero. I suspect I have a split line somewhere, I forgot to close the roof vents and only had the heat set on 41. We've had a couple of 33/34 degree nights. But no hard freeze or ice.

However, I can't find where/if the air is coming out, no evidence of water leaking, nor can I figure out why this dry break is making so much noise. Nor can I figure out why no air is coming out any of the faucets, including the outside shower which is probably the first thing in line.

Help!!!

Persistent · 10-31-2021, 01:44 PM

Ice in plumbing is blocking flow or ice has damaged valves and is blocking flow.

Bigfoot_ · 10-31-2021, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Persistent

Ice in plumbing is blocking flow or ice has damaged valves and is blocking flow.

There's no evidence of anything frozen that I can see inside or outside. Heater is on and internal doors are open. I'll let it sit a bit.

I don't understand why the dry break is making so much noise?

If the line was just blocked (just like all faucets being closed), it should not make any noise.

How can I locate either a leak or blockage? All I can hear is the dry break valve. I've felt all up and down the supply lines from the water panel, and there's nothing.

RRR · 10-31-2021, 05:07 PM

WAG but by chance could you have your compressed air hooked to the black flush?

Bigfoot_ · 10-31-2021, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RRR

WAG but by chance could you have your compressed air hooked to the black flush?

No, I can feel the air coming out the dry/air break valve on the blue Pex when I press the valve button so I am definitely on the fresh water system.

Starting to wonder if this is somehow related to the new Anderson valve. It slightly changes the water inlet plumbing. Running the electric pump pumped some water out of the low point. But with air at the city inlet, nothing is coming out the low points or anywhere, either with the switch to winterize or normal use. I believe it adds a new check valve on the city inlet.

https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/99f63...b0fe50e2de.pdf

alank · 10-31-2021, 08:24 PM

First year with brass replacement valve, and now things don't work like they did last year? Where's this brass replacement valve, and how sure are you that it has the same internal passages as what it replaced?

Bigfoot_ · 10-31-2021, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alank

First year with brass replacement valve, and now things don't work like they did last year? Where's this brass replacement valve, and how sure are you that it has the same internal passages as what it replaced?

I attached the PDF in prior post. It is a replacement design from the original manufacturer of the plastic valve that fails.

https://www.abcorv.com/product-page/manrv101-rf

Thinking through it some more I am going back to the idea of the inlet line being iced up. The water pump could push water out the low point valves, but the air connected to the water inlet could not. Nothing really changed moving the valve from city inlet to winterize. (which moves the water inlet from post pump valve to pre-pump to blow out the pump, if you read the PDF. It simplifies the plumbing ever so slightly (the valve becomes 3 position, not 4 position) and adds a one way on one of the lines.

I suspect the inlet line goes up the wall to the dry break behind the bedroom drawers, then back down to the valve itself. I think my issue is between the water inlet and the valve, because the water pump itself was able to push water out.

So either that line or valve was frozen, or the dry break is just faulty.

Another idea might be to move the valve to the fill position, remove the tank cap and confirm the air makes it to the fresh tank. If that is also a problem it confirms the problem is upstream from the valve.

Bigfoot_ · 11-01-2021, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RRR

WAG but by chance could you have your compressed air hooked to the black flush?

Well I'm embarrassed -- I had mis-remembered the black tank flush as not having a white rubber cap, and thinking that was only on the fresh water inlet and being very deliberate about putting it on the one with the whitie rubber cap.

What an idiot. Anyway, that was my problem and hopefully because the black tank is vented I haven't caused any issues.

My back was out and I couldn't get the water bay door fully open due to obstructions so I was just not thinking straight.

Thank you all.

aribert · 11-01-2021, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigfoot_

Well I'm embarrassed -- I had mis-remembered the black tank flush as not having a white rubber cap, and thinking that was only on the fresh water inlet and being very deliberate about putting it on the one with the whitie rubber cap.....
Thank you all.

Thank you for posting the follow-up. I was concerned since I also replaced the defective plastic 4-way valve with the replacement Anderson / ABCO brass valve on my '16 Bounder 35k. I intend to do the compressed air method since the filter for the icemaker is not accessible and I don't want to get RV antifreeze into the filter. I'm watching the 7 day weather forecast daily to see when I must winterize - expect that to be within a week or two max.