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Old 10-31-2013, 05:53 PM   #1
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3 Qs on Bounder battery cut off switches

I plan to use the battery two battery cut off' switches that are installed above the door on my 'new to me' 2005 Fleetwood Bounder 35E (Ford gas chassis). However, these switches do not seem to work and I am unclear on the whole concept.


I now have 12 volt power everywhere and the switches do not seem to cut anything out. The RV will be stored in an open lot for four months during our cold Chicago winter where I plan to visit and start/run it monthly. I feel the batteries should be disconnected so that all of the known and unknown vampire power devices do not drain them.


Both switches are supposed to make a clicking sound that comes from under the hood. That clicking sound was being generated a couple of months ago, but now (when I need it) is no longer there.


I have three questions:

- Does the MAIN switch disconnect the chassis battery; not allowing you to start the engine and and killing power to everything on the dashboard (including the clock in the radio)? If not, what's its purpose?
- Does the AUX switch disconnect the two house batteries under the stairs; denying all power fromn the lights, refrigerator, etc? If not, what's its purpose?
- How do I trouble shoot these two switches?.


regards,
Jeff
'05 Fleetwood Bounder 35E - Ford gas chassis
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Old 10-31-2013, 06:05 PM   #2
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Jeff,

Sounds like your coach batteries need to be checked. The coach batteries may be toast or close to it. Also check the electrolyte level. If the level is below the plates you may have bad cells and the batteries will have to be replaced. Voltage should be over 12.3 or so.
I would not worry about the switches until the above is done.
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:13 PM   #3
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The MAIN switch shuts off most of the items connected to the coach battery but does not shut off the dashboard 12v sockets and some other low-power load that I measured on my coach to be about 100ma. I use one of those battery-post mounted throw-bar type switches that CW sells to completely disconnect the coach battery if I don't plan to charge the coach battery within a couple of weeks.

The AUX switch seems to completely disconnect the house batteries from all loads in my 04 Bounder. I have stored the unit for three months with no battery discharge by just using this switch.

The relays that these switches control are in the big fuse-panel housing in the engine compartment. They are connected directly to the big bus-bars inside the housing.
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:39 PM   #4
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You probably needs a new board or relay. Mine needed both and were replace by the dealer on my 03 Pace Arrow by Fleetwood. Believe me this is not something for the lay mam!

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Old 10-31-2013, 10:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbdjeb View Post
I plan to use the battery two battery cut off' switches that are installed above the door on my 'new to me' 2005 Fleetwood Bounder 35E (Ford gas chassis). However, these switches do not seem to work and I am unclear on the whole concept.


I now have 12 volt power everywhere and the switches do not seem to cut anything out. The RV will be stored in an open lot for four months during our cold Chicago winter where I plan to visit and start/run it monthly. I feel the batteries should be disconnected so that all of the known and unknown vampire power devices do not drain them.
Test the batteries!


Both switches are supposed to make a clicking sound that comes from under the hood. That clicking sound was being generated a couple of months ago, but now (when I need it) is no longer there.


I have three questions:

- Does the MAIN switch disconnect the chassis battery; not allowing you to start the engine and and killing power to everything on the dashboard (including the clock in the radio)? If not, what's its purpose?
- Does the AUX switch disconnect the two house batteries under the stairs; denying all power fromn the lights, refrigerator, etc? If not, what's its purpose?
- How do I trouble shoot these two switches?.


regards,
Jeff
'05 Fleetwood Bounder 35E - Ford gas chassis
Jeff,

One Thought:

The lack of the clicking sound could denote a dying chassis battery with a low charge or a sticking contact. Start the engine and quickly flip both cutoff switches a bunch of times. This will clean the contacts on the switches and, hopefully, you will hear the click again.
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Old 11-03-2013, 07:50 AM   #6
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I've got the answer to my cut off problems.

Many of you steered me toward the mysterious black BCC box under the hood that holds the two cut off replays and chassis fuses. One of the 5 amp fuses was burned out. After replacement the switches/relays worked.

Dave's description of the functionality seems to be correct. Interestingly, the ignition and exterior lights are never shut down and both switches are automatically turned back on when the ignition key is turned on to start the engine.

I may have a override switch installed that will shut down absolutely everything on the chassis battery.

Thanks to all for your responses.

regards,
Jeff
'05 Bounder 35E on a Ford gas chassis
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