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Old 08-14-2015, 11:29 AM   #1
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35k main slide getting slower

Our main slide has always been a little slow coming in. Lately it has been real slow and has even stopped once or twice while retracting. What should I look for? Should I lube it? Is there wiring connections to check? It goes out just fine.
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:47 AM   #2
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Mine will do this when not running at high idle. Good luck JD
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:52 AM   #3
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Well I think I found maybe a partial problem and also the reason the slide was staining my carpet when it cam in right behind the drivers seat. On each slide rail there are two roller wheels which support the slide rail that has the rail of drive teeth on it. One of these wheels was installed wrong at the factory. It was facing the outside of the rail which meant t was supporting nothing and most likely causing that ral to sag a little and allow the slide or seal to contact the carpet thereby staining it. unbolted the wheel and turned it around facing the right way and slide seems to work fine. The gears sure look a bit rusty. would it hurt to lube them and if not, what should I use?
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Old 08-14-2015, 02:25 PM   #4
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We have a 2014 35K that from the very beginning seemed to strain a little when opening the main slide room (driver side). We got the RV out of storage last week to prep for a month long trip. While it was parked at home in our driveway I tried to open the main slide but it only got about half way then quit. I couldn't get it to close or open further. I could hear the relay operating on the controller board but no motor movement. I called a local RV tech and determined the Power Gear motor was defective. The reason for the motor failure was that the bolt for one of the slide rollers came loose causing the roller to jam up the works. Evidently the motor burned up when I tried to open and close while the slide was stuck. I would have thought there would have been some sort of protection to keep the motor from failing under these conditions. The motor would have cost me around $700 but luckily it was still under Power Gears 2 year warranty.

So the moral of the story is to check the rollers on your slides occasionally. It may save you the cost of a replacement slide motor.
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Old 08-15-2015, 08:07 PM   #5
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mojo, people need pictures of this area. To answer your lube question. Do not lube your tracks. The stain is from the slide box bottom. Take a look. It's most likely filthy. You can wash it like your coach body. You might wash it one day, only to have it caked with dirt the next from driving down the road. No staining is possible from the slide mechanism itself.


If the surface rust bothers you, use a wire brush to clean off dirt and loose rust.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mojoracing View Post
Well I think I found maybe a partial problem and also the reason the slide was staining my carpet when it cam in right behind the drivers seat. On each slide rail there are two roller wheels which support the slide rail that has the rail of drive teeth on it. One of these wheels was installed wrong at the factory. It was facing the outside of the rail which meant t was supporting nothing and most likely causing that ral to sag a little and allow the slide or seal to contact the carpet thereby staining it. unbolted the wheel and turned it around facing the right way and slide seems to work fine. The gears sure look a bit rusty. would it hurt to lube them and if not, what should I use?
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:26 AM   #6
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I will take some pics tomorrow. I always wash the bottom of the slide. I thinks the stain came from the rubber seal that comes in with the slide, a sweep so to speak. With the roller positioned wrong, I think it allowed the slide to sag just enough for it to hit the carpet. I had recently cleaned the stain which the original dealer had not done to my satisfaction and now with the roller in place it is not getting dirty again. Tomorrow I'll get those pics.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:15 PM   #7
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You have to keep a close eye on these slides! Check ALL rails & such for any damage to teeth. Lubing not recommended on the rails because it attracts dirt.
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Old 08-16-2015, 05:02 PM   #8
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Ok, here is a pic of the slide rollers just behind the drivers area of the main slide. In the pic, they are now in the proper position but the wheel on the left came from the factory "flipped around" and was out on the side where my finger is in the picture, essentially supporting nothing. A 9/16" wrench and it was fixed in under a minute. It pays to crawl around under your rig. The other day I found the roll pin that holds the arm to to stair motor barely in place. I had the pound that in. It looked like the factory had placed the roll pin in the hole but forgot to hammer it in place.
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:10 AM   #9
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Well, at least you have a nice unused wheel. You already know I checked mine after your initial post about this. The break bell must have rung and when he returned forgot to finish the job. Imagine what you can't see. There must be some kind of check off list somewhere for each and every step but I saw non in the three factory tours I did. There are a lot of parts and processes to keep track of for sure.




If these motors are straining, they most like need a change in the gearing. So what if it takes a little longer moving in or out. Make it so the motor and mechanism last "forever". It's an easy fix for them (Power Gear)/Lippert. It won't happen.
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:30 AM   #10
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35K Bounder Slide

Points taken on observing/listening to slide operation. Our slide "popped/cracked" from day of purchase. When I asked dealer he said was normal. I inquired of a second dealer, said same thing. A trip to the factory service center proved otherwise, broken roller... Message to me/others look and educate self, dealers tell you what they think you want to hear.
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:54 AM   #11
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In the interim we are made out to be whining complainers. Dealers are not what they should be. Competent . I know, because I was told by Fleetwood, that Fleetwood has problems with dealers. Maybe not all but it's a problem which for them is difficult at best. How do you push back at CW for example who pushes out a lot of product. Just because we spend a lot of money on these vehicles, it does not mean we have money to burn or want to burn it.




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Points taken on observing/listening to slide operation. Our slide "popped/cracked" from day of purchase. When I asked dealer he said was normal. I inquired of a second dealer, said same thing. A trip to the factory service center proved otherwise, broken roller... Message to me/others look and educate self, dealers tell you what they think you want to hear.
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:59 AM   #12
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Since retraction seems more difficult than extension, maybe a return spring similar to the springs used on the levelers would be a good thing. Yes, I know the levelers need the springs to retract.
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:57 AM   #13
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mojo, if you contact customer service and ask for the schematic called slide out assembly- flush floor you can see exactly how these slides are made. What you will notice is there is no rubber seal moving in with the slide contacting the carpet. If you take a look under the carpet which hangs down to the floor, behind the driver's seat with the slide retracted, you will then see that the slide is indeed built as the schematic shows. If you look very closely at the drawings, you will see that the only support for the slide is the angle bracket above your compartments. The slide box is wobbly at best and the angle brackets are the only means to raise the slide box away from the carpet/floor inside the coach. There is actually a formula to calculate the adjustment for the height provided by Power Gear. My box touches my carpet. The adjustment holes at the aforementioned bracket are maxed out on my slide box so raising the box isn't going to happen unless I get pushed into it. I'm sure you all notice the box for the slide rocking around while you operate it. At the factory they adjusted my slide topper to keep it from flopping around in the wind. I'm sure that some of the rocking action is caused by the increased spring tension. What makes the slide go vertical is the outside trim when you bring it in and the inside trim contacting the coach wall upon extension counteracts the spring tension of the slide topper. I'll upload my version of the whole assembly. Your 35K is the same as a 33C.

To see the angle bracket holding the box look for the area under a notation see note #14

Flush floor assy.pdf

The editor here and 503 service unavailable error is putting the Power Gear attachment for adjusting the flush floor slide at the bottom of this post. Whatever.




Quote:
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I will take some pics tomorrow. I always wash the bottom of the slide. I thinks the stain came from the rubber seal that comes in with the slide, a sweep so to speak. With the roller positioned wrong, I think it allowed the slide to sag just enough for it to hit the carpet. I had recently cleaned the stain which the original dealer had not done to my satisfaction and now with the roller in place it is not getting dirty again. Tomorrow I'll get those pics.
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Old 08-20-2015, 03:56 PM   #14
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Washing the bottom of the box

Mojo, when you are under there cleaning the box, take a look up at the wedge shaped aluminum extrusion. It's the leading edge of the box. Your slide will have to be fully extended. My stains are always black. Like the black you get from aluminum.. As you work your way back, you will be stopped by the box where the electric wires are housed and the wheel well. Those are hard spots to clean the aluminum extrusion bottom. It is then easier to clean that bottom with the slide retracted. It won't be perfect since you can't get into the hollow areas of the extrusion. From inside lift up the carpet by the sofa and make yourself something to squeeze between the floor and the extrusion. I use a sponge pad and an old metal spatula. I work it side to side with whatever liquid on the sponge pad you use to break up greasy dirt. I then wrap a rag around the spatula to wipe it dry.


Your stationary carpet is clamped into the reversed stationary matching extrusion of the moving slide box. That part of the carpet might be trapping dirt because it is the first place the slide box extrusion contacts. That trapped dirt might be transferred to the freshly cleaned slide box extrusion and transferred again to your stationary carpet. I'd rather not have the stationary carpet.

As a note for you Mojo, if you ever decide to raise the box, first look outside at your paint with the slide retracted fully. If your paint pattern lines up exactly as mine does your goose is cooked. Can't raise it up otherwise the paint designs will be misaligned. That would not be good. If your paint lines up it also means your box was low when it left the factory. It was painted with a giant stencil laid across the entire coach wall front to back. That's how the paint lines up so nicely.
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