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01-05-2013, 05:21 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
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91 Bounder battery hookup needed- mine were stolen
I just realized I had my batteries stole. All 3 of them . Now, the battery on right upper is for motor. Other 2 in carriage are for house. Question is if someone has a couple pics they could send me and also do all batteries have to be connected to appropriate cables in order for engine to start [all 3 in tandem}. I put battery on just engine and not the other 2 and didn't even get headlights on so clearly no juice from just one battery. Very frustrating !!
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01-05-2013, 05:28 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Heartland RV Club
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Fairhope, AL / Reedley, CA
Posts: 483
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Well IIRC you should have just a chassis battery on that rig that should run all the chassis stuff and it should be 12v
The house batterys should be 2 6v hooked up in series
I dont think all 3 should be hooked together, there will be a emergency start for the engine, that is run from the house batteries but that should be a hot wire going to a selinoid
Givin that you should just hook the + & - up to the chassis wires/battery and you should be good to go
__________________
Good Sam Charter Lifetime Member 269454, FMCA 239141
2019 Heartland Mallard IDM33 Bumper Pull
1988 Mallard 27SB Motorhome P30 454/TH475/Banks Power
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01-05-2013, 05:31 PM
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#3
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Community Administrator
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 53,561
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Welcome to IRV 2. Sorry to hear that someone did that to you. There are members here that I know can help you. Good luck.
Cliff
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Cliff,Tallulah and Buddy ( 1999-2012 )
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01-05-2013, 09:30 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F239141
Well IIRC you should have just a chassis battery on that rig that should run all the chassis stuff and it should be 12v
The house batterys should be 2 6v hooked up in series
I dont think all 3 should be hooked together, there will be a emergency start for the engine, that is run from the house batteries but that should be a hot wire going to a selinoid
Givin that you should just hook the + & - up to the chassis wires/battery and you should be good to go
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When I just hooked up regular battery to chssis and used marine terminals, I did't get any power at all, not on ignition, headlights,etc
The layout is this
Batt 1 in carriage on left-- has neg black to frame, white to control panel that goes with neg and pos to solenoid above it
Batt2 in carriage has 2 pos that I think would go on it yet free hanging but in that area and then run link from pos on 1 to neg on 2
Batt 3 {chassis} clearly has a neg,ground white and one hot unless one of the 2 reds i refer to that I think go on Batt2 goes on chassis as well but dont think so.. Thoughts?
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01-05-2013, 09:35 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F239141
Well IIRC you should have just a chassis battery on that rig that should run all the chassis stuff and it should be 12v
The house batterys should be 2 6v hooked up in series
I dont think all 3 should be hooked together, there will be a emergency start for the engine, that is run from the house batteries but that should be a hot wire going to a selinoid
Givin that you should just hook the + & - up to the chassis wires/battery and you should be good to go
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Also , if my memory is right, the 2 house batteries were 12 volt and not 6 and I am kind of confused there. Will 2 12 volts be ok as I have read they can be but just shorter life and less hours for dry camp? I am actually in process of selling this one and need to move it from current location to finish the complete remodel I am 75% done with
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01-05-2013, 10:04 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F239141
Well IIRC you should have just a chassis battery on that rig that should run all the chassis stuff and it should be 12v
The house batterys should be 2 6v hooked up in series
I dont think all 3 should be hooked together, there will be a emergency start for the engine, that is run from the house batteries but that should be a hot wire going to a selinoid
Givin that you should just hook the + & - up to the chassis wires/battery and you should be good to go
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Also I didn't mean to hook all 3 up as stated. They all tie into the central control panel in one way or another and just thought that with all of them not going through whatever is in there, it may not allow all to work in there. Mechanically inclined yet not a pro
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01-06-2013, 12:58 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Heartland RV Club
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Fairhope, AL / Reedley, CA
Posts: 483
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Ok Here is the diagram I talked to you about, its crude, but it shows how the 3 batteries would be hooked up
If you have 2 12v coach then the (+) goes to (+) and (-) to (-) when connecting the 2 batteries and not like the serries setup I have shown in the diagram
In the battery bay you should only see 4 wires 2 red 2 black, one set goes to coach, other to chassis, the jumper wire to connect the 2 coach may of been stole with the battries
I know this dont look like your setup but Im not used to it with the "control pannel" this is how I set up, and I hope it can point you in the right direction
__________________
Good Sam Charter Lifetime Member 269454, FMCA 239141
2019 Heartland Mallard IDM33 Bumper Pull
1988 Mallard 27SB Motorhome P30 454/TH475/Banks Power
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01-07-2013, 12:12 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,636
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Print these diagrams from an '89 Bounder (should be close enough) and hook the batteries up as shown.
The two house batteries ARE 6volts and need to be hooked up in series (as you stated earlier). The chassis battery is 12volts.
The house battery (I think the one you are calling #2) is the one that has the most positive wires (cables) attached. Look carefully for smaller sized wires that may have fallen out of sight that also need to be attached to the chassis positive.
Good luck and don't be afraid to ask further questions.
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