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Old Bounder · 10-17-2016, 07:03 PM

That capacitor is not needed with your new converter. The original purpose was to allow the old converter to produce a usable output if/when the aux batteries were removed or disconnected. Your new converter has no problem doing that without the capacitor.

If you can't find the capacitor, I suspect the converter that you replaced was NOT the original, and the capacitor was most likely removed when that converter was installed. You seem reluctant to say what make converter you replaced, and which converter you replaced it with. We can't help much without info.

In any event, the capacitor, missing or not, is not your problem.

Are you saying that connecting the batteries (even without any external 120v power) causes the fan to run. Is this correct? Obviously that shouldn't happen.

mchero · 10-17-2016, 08:12 PM

OldBounder, u da man. As always, excellent information!

Im still waiting for the make/model of the converter!

kennyrodgers · 10-20-2016, 04:00 PM

Hi Guys,
Once again, sorry for the late reply.
I have been using one of these for charging duties, I have a few friends who use them also and they work fine for those guys. Mine worked in the sense that when there was a load on the batteries it sensed it fine and ramped up the voltage accordingly, when the batteries were charged the output dropped to around 12.35 volts. Don't shoot me, I was acting on advise received.

The fan kicked in even when not hooked up to shore power.
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Double...%2Bsupply&th=1

I bit the bullet and bought a different charger today, a three stage 25 amp jobbie.
Leisure Battery Charger
I fitted it fine, hooked up to shore power and the initial output was 14.5v, 13.5v at the batteries, no fan.......Result.....or so I thought.
After five minutes the fan kicked in and out a few times then proceeded to sieze. I could tell it was stuck as you could hear the motor whining.
I switched the unit off, 10 seconds later i switched it back on and the fan started up. It's done this three times now in about an hour so I've switched it completely.
On my BCC diagram it shows two red wires coming from a pair of circuit breakers (after the relay) running to the 12v fuse panel. (I'd concur with Old Bounder in that the capacitor has been removed but the two + and - studs are still in place.)
I can see one of the red wires from the BCC attached to the + stud, from that goes another red wire to the fuse panel. I cannot see the other red wire from the BCC. The diagram shows the two red wires going to the fuse panel and the red from the converter to the fuse panel also.
The old broken converter was connected + and - to the two studs on the floor, I've also done the same with the subsequent chargers.
If I can figure a way out to post the PDF's I will.
Many thanks for all the suggestions.