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Old 09-14-2022, 05:24 PM   #1
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'97 Bounder Cruise Control

Has anyone had issues with their bounder Ford cruise control or a have technical document from Ford you can share showing testing procedures.?

Min worked for some time, stopped then while investigating it started working again and recently stopped again.

So Far:
1. It has a clock spring type steering wheel for control buttons, BUT NO CC Indication anywhere on the dash. Frustrating. All wires to and from clockspring were tested for continuity, proper resistance on button push, and contacts were cleaned.

2. Brake light disconnect was verified as OK.

3. No fuses under the hood were bad.

4. Actual connector to CC controller were intact and no issues seen. Linkage to controller was in good shape.

I am down to trying to trace wires but unsure of where they go, hence to need for a service file.
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Old 09-14-2022, 06:52 PM   #2
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Any chance you have LED tail/stop lights?
What do you mean be "brake light disconnect"?
Have you checked the pressure switch on the master cylinder and the recall fuse next to the pressure switch? Those 2 items are exposed to the elements.

Richard
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Old 09-14-2022, 07:03 PM   #3
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Muilti function switch

Thinking about householders post…have you checked the other lights on the coach? I have a f53 ford chassis with the v10 and had a similar problem, turned out to be the multi function switch (turn signal) which was corroded. The cruise control is part of this switch.
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Old 09-15-2022, 03:19 PM   #4
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Greetings House Hubby, Answers to your questions below:


Any chance you have LED tail/stop lights? Thats a very good question: I had to go look, in all the years we have had it I have never done anything more than verify they work, and yes they are LED. Not an LED replacement bulb but rather a flat pack installation. And, in looking closer I see half the brake lights are quite dim, the other half are good on the same side, and this is only on one side at the rear.

What do you mean be "brake light disconnect"? The pressure switch on the brakes seems to work properly during continuity testing.

Have you checked the pressure switch on the master cylinder and the recall fuse next to the pressure switch? Those 2 items are exposed to the elements. Yes to both
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Old 09-16-2022, 01:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptronNZ View Post
Greetings House Hubby, Answers to your questions below:


Any chance you have LED tail/stop lights? Thats a very good question: I had to go look, in all the years we have had it I have never done anything more than verify they work, and yes they are LED. Not an LED replacement bulb but rather a flat pack installation. And, in looking closer I see half the brake lights are quite dim, the other half are good on the same side, and this is only on one side at the rear.

What do you mean be "brake light disconnect"? The pressure switch on the brakes seems to work properly during continuity testing.

Have you checked the pressure switch on the master cylinder and the recall fuse next to the pressure switch? Those 2 items are exposed to the elements. Yes to both
When I installed the Bargman flat panel LEDs, my cruise control and torque converter clutch started working randomly.
The ground feedback from the incandescent element to the stop/turn signal wire in necessary to pull down the 0.4 volts the computer puts on the stop/turn wires. You lose the grounding when you install LED stop/turn lights. My answer to the problem was to graft 194 bulbs onto the stop/turn wires and ground on both sides. I purchased 194 sockets with short wires attached. Remove the rear lamp assembles and you will have access to the wires.
Hopefully this helps.

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Old 09-20-2022, 03:59 PM   #6
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I had a similar problem on a 2006 Gulfstream. Turned out to be the pressure switch in the brake line, right below the master cylinder. Looks like a "T" fitting. Quick and cheap fix. Replaced it and worked perfectly and consistently.
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Old 09-21-2022, 09:21 AM   #7
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These are both excellent ideas I will follow up.

I did test the brake switch but will do so again.

The flat panel LEDS were not something I even thought about. If the above fails, I will certainly give this a try.

Many thanks

Ron
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Old 09-21-2022, 11:47 AM   #8
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Ford did a recall for cruise control on the F53 chassis that included my '95 Bounder to replace a wiring harness. I don't know if it included your '97 but might be worthwhile to call your local ford dealer with your VIN.
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Old 09-27-2022, 03:07 PM   #9
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Hi Folks,

The cruise control on my 2000 Bounder works great, but only when it feels like it. I do a fingertip dance on the on/off and set/resume buttons during the first few miles of any startup, and it usually works about the time I need to tap the brakes to turn it off due to increasing traffic. When it DOES start working I am often heard calling out something like "The Cruise Control is WORKING!" which gets a pleasant nod and smile of approval from my navigating co-pilot.

Thank you to all for the suggestions about potential reasons for the intermittent operation. I'll add those checks to my list of stuff to do when we slow down for a while.

Best Regards,
Frank
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Old 09-27-2022, 03:54 PM   #10
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Hi Folks,

The cruise control on my 2000 Bounder works great, but only when it feels like it. I do a fingertip dance on the on/off and set/resume buttons during the first few miles of any startup, and it usually works about the time I need to tap the brakes to turn it off due to increasing traffic. When it DOES start working I am often heard calling out something like "The Cruise Control is WORKING!" which gets a pleasant nod and smile of approval from my navigating co-pilot.

Thank you to all for the suggestions about potential reasons for the intermittent operation. I'll add those checks to my list of stuff to do when we slow down for a while.

Best Regards,
Frank
Yours is sounding like the pressure switch ot on or near the master cylinder. It's a $25 switch and easy to change.

The part # is CCS-1 at NAPA.
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Old 09-27-2022, 07:50 PM   #11
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Yours is sounding like the pressure switch ot on or near the master cylinder. It's a $25 switch and easy to change.

The part # is CCS-1 at NAPA.
Mine was intermittent too. With Forscan connected, I was able to determine the steering wheel switches were all good as the computer was registering the switches when pressed. Installed a jumper wire in the plug at the pressure switch to test when not working. CC then worked. Replaced the pressure switch, all is good.Mine was below the M/C on the firewall.
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