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Old 06-16-2016, 05:13 AM   #1
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98 Dream Water System

Looking for some help with the water system on 98 Dream. Getting ready for this years maiden voyage, hooked city water up, and checked for any leaks. Everything was good except there was no hot water at any faucet. I did not turn heater on at this point, as there was no water in the tank. I dont know if its me, but the directions at the water hookups is not very user friendly. I opened the pressure release on water tank, to let air out of the tank...until i got straight water. Still no water out of hot side of faucets. I unhooked city water and just used the pump, and it works fine on cold water sides....Any suggeestions would be appreciated...Mark
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Old 06-16-2016, 07:05 AM   #2
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Look for a Water Heater by-pass valve back by the Water Heater- usually shutoff for winterizing.
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:06 AM   #3
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Didnt shut it off in the fall....opened all lines and blew them out...took plug out of heater...antifreeze in drains
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:41 AM   #4
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I winterize mine the same way !
There must be a valve off somewhere on the Hot water side. Someone with your Coach will chime in.
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Old 06-16-2016, 06:35 PM   #5
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The 98 Dream and my Eagle should be the same.l

I would fill the fresh water tank by opening the By-Pass valve until the fresh water tank is full. Then close your By-Pass valve and turn on the water pump after you turn your City Water connection OFF.

Next, purge all air out of your hot and cold water side by turning each faucet on individually.

Once the air is purged, turn your water pump OFF and your City Water ON.

Make sure your outside "shower" faucets (both Hot and Cold are turned OFF).

You should now have good flow from both Hot and Cold faucets throughout the coach.

Now and only now, turn your Hot Water Heater ON.

If this does not work, call American Coach!
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Old 06-19-2016, 03:20 PM   #6
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The 98 Dream and my Eagle should be the same.l

I would fill the fresh water tank by opening the By-Pass valve until the fresh water tank is full. Then close your By-Pass valve and turn on the water pump after you turn your City Water connection OFF.

Next, purge all air out of your hot and cold water side by turning each faucet on individually.

Once the air is purged, turn your water pump OFF and your City Water ON.

Make sure your outside "shower" faucets (both Hot and Cold are turned OFF).

You should now have good flow from both Hot and Cold faucets throughout the coach.

Now and only now, turn your Hot Water Heater ON.

If this does not work, call American Coach!

Same process I use !


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Old 06-20-2016, 03:18 AM   #7
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98 Dream

Thanks Chuck, I tried what you suggested, still know luck. I knowThe hot water tank has water in it, because when i hit the pressure relief valve water comes out. Also when i'm either running hot or cold (pump or city) at the water compartment shower, hot spits alittle bit then quits. Could something have happened when i blew the lines out in the fall? There are no leaks anywhere in the coach....Mark
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Old 06-20-2016, 06:41 PM   #8
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How long are leaving the hot side on for -- mine takes a few minutes to bleed off. If it spits then its pressurized.
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Old 06-21-2016, 03:33 AM   #9
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I leave one open at a time....5-10 minutes...I can hear air once and a while but not all the time. I'm baffled, because when i hit pressure relief valve on tank i get water?
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:34 AM   #10
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I leave one open at a time....5-10 minutes...I can hear air once and a while but not all the time. I'm baffled, because when i hit pressure relief valve on tank i get water?
I've asked a friend of mine to chime in, He has a 97 Dream. There must be something different from yours and mine being 6 yrs apart.
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Old 06-21-2016, 08:21 AM   #11
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I've asked a friend of mine to chime in, He has a 97 Dream. There must be something different from yours and mine being 6 yrs apart.
I have read the thread.

You should get water with the bypass in either setting.

In the bypass position water should be diverted around the tank, but still flow through the plumbing system.

In the non bypass position water flows through the tank and into the system.

The description of the problem sounds like there is a blockage in the line.

I am wondering if there is a problem with the bypass valve.

That valve is typically a ball valve. Below is the best cutaway image I could find.



If the "ball" with the hole in it to direct flow was half way between the two settings you might get the problems you are experiencing.

I have come across valves where the shaft has broken, turning the handle would not effect the position of the "ball" in the valve.

Usually when this happens the handle will turn very freely.

I do not know the floor plan you have, but it should not make any difference.

You do have access to the bypass valve.

This is an image of my bypass valve



If yours is like mine the connections are brass fittings so I would not try and separate the pipe there to see if you have water flowing through the valve. The connections to the pipe are compression and if you turn the connection in the pipe you may develope a leak.

The lines in and out of the hot water tank are in the rear of the tank. Below is a picture of the back of the tank (removed from the Motor Home)


In my Motor home they are difficult to see through the access panel, but can be seen.






Those in my Motor Home are second generation polybutylene fittings. You can just see them on the right side of the picture above.

They are hand tight, no need for tools.

Caution, inside these fittings is a rubber cone that makes the seal. I would have on hand a replacement before loosening the fitting as they become hard and will brake.



This is what it should look like



They are not easy to find, but a GOOD old fashion hardware store should have them. Home Depot has something similar (I do not know if this is the right size) BrassCraft 3/8 in. O.D. Replacement Cone Washer for Copper Toilet Riser-01E - The Home Depot

Where I would start would be to separate the feed line to the hot water tank and see if you have water flowing out of the bypass valve.

If not then the next step would be to separate the line going into the bypass valve to see if you have water there.

Let us know.

I do not know if this will help. Replace old Atwood water heater with a new one
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Old 06-21-2016, 01:25 PM   #12
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Wow!...what an asset to this sight ...your response is as if I'm in contact with Fleetwood direct. I will try everything you have suggested. Would there be any chance that you could take a picture of your water compartment. All of the valves arrow indicators have wore off of mine...I'm very sure that they are in the right position for water from tank, but not sure
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Old 06-21-2016, 02:36 PM   #13
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Wow!...what an asset to this sight ...your response is as if I'm in contact with Fleetwood direct. I will try everything you have suggested. Would there be any chance that you could take a picture of your water compartment. All of the valves arrow indicators have wore off of mine...I'm very sure that they are in the right position for water from tank, but not sure
Not sure which compartment you are wanting pictures of.

If you are getting cold water, you should get water out of the hot water taps.

here are some pictures (you might want to take a look at my projects thread, the first page is a index to the whole thread.













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Old 06-21-2016, 04:13 PM   #14
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Hi Glenn, my system doesn't look anything like that. I'm just running off the tank and have cold pressure and pump stops. All faucets run cold at good pressure. Went out to hot water tank and took drain plug out and the water pressure blew the plug out of my hand....pump started back up I put the plug in and pump stopped. Opened all hot faucets nothing...any more thoughts...thanks for your patience...I'm going this weekend even if I have to take cold showers!!!
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