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Old 05-22-2020, 11:51 AM   #1
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99 Fleetwood Pacearrow headlight issue

I have a 99 Fleetwood Pacearrow 31 E on the Chevy frame, Currently have been having issues with the headlights and headlight switch .

I currently have or was retrofitted before I purchased it the older 70s style one pull and twist headlight switch to control the lights ,

On further inspections on the back of the switch is a 7 wire feed leading to the pigtail connection to the main wire harness or where it disappears behind the firewall / down the column .

It looks to be that the yellow lead wire had melted and we have tried to put a new lead on that wire but to no avail , im curious if anyone else has had to retrofit or has rewired the main lights on their RVs.

to be honest im 30 years old and these older style pull switches have always tripped me up , im looking to install or change it out to a simple push button or flip switch .

Wires leading to the back of the switch are : yellow , white, green , red, black , orange, and two browns linked

would anyone have any leads to a possible wiring diagram or suggestions ?
any help or suggestions would be great .

Thanks
Jeff
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Old 05-22-2020, 11:55 AM   #2
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Here are my photos of how this is set up
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Old 05-22-2020, 01:00 PM   #3
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After putting it back together heres what happens :

When connected and batteries off - Warning noise ( light on )
When connected batteries on - No noise
When connected batteries on pulled on click - all exterior running lights on
When connected batteries on pulled two clicks - headlights for 10 seconds then off

When connected batteries on twisted to the left or right - no noticeable difference

I guess if someone could just help me understand how to use it . lol

Im mainly concerned about keeping the headlights on for longer than 10 seconds .

Thanks
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Old 05-22-2020, 07:01 PM   #4
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If you leave the switch in the "connected batteries on pulled two clicks - headlights for 10 seconds then off " position for a few minutes, do the lights come on again for another 10 second cycle and then go off again?

Those switches have an auto-reset breaker in them. If overloaded they will trip off from the heat in the bi-metal breaker and then self-reset when cooled. If the overload persists, they will trip again, and over and over.

This used to be a fairly common result of somebody putting high powered halogen headlight bulbs in a system designed for ordinary incandescent headlights.

The melted terminal is the hint that this may be your issue.
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Old 05-22-2020, 07:49 PM   #5
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As far as I know the lights haven’t been changed much from factory standards , but I’m not sure .

Currently when the headlights go off they flicker but very very very low light ever 3-4 seconds but barely visible .

Do you think it would be an overloaded circuit from the sounds of it ??
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Old 05-22-2020, 08:03 PM   #6
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As mentioned the headlight switch , has an internal auto reset circuit breaker .

Most are mid 70's Chevy Pick up truck switches and the twist of the knob is the dash light illumination adjustment .
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Old 05-24-2020, 10:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aliaka1373 View Post
As far as I know the lights haven’t been changed much from factory standards , but I’m not sure .

Currently when the headlights go off they flicker but very very very low light ever 3-4 seconds but barely visible .

Do you think it would be an overloaded circuit from the sounds of it ??
Yes, to get that hot it has to be, but that could include a short circuit somewhere along the line.

If it was me (and I can be pretty stupid at times), I'd get someone to stand out front and watch the headlights as I fed +12v (with an inline 30A fuse) to that yellow lead for a second. If you get wild sparks and no headlights, you have a short somewhere in the yellow wire. If you get headlights and the wire doesn't get hot right away, you have over-watt headlights.

I'm betting on the over-watt headlights. the OEM 55W halogen's of that day were awful! I have put 100W halogens in there many times. Thing is, I did it through a relay and just used the OEM headlight plug as the relay trigger signal.

I don't understand that short connection from the large white connector either. It looks like the PO substituted a different headlight switch for the OEM one that plugged into that big white connector. I hate PO electrical ****ery because it's always undocumented. Probably the OEM lightswitch was expensive and the PO subbed in a cheaper car one. That could explain why it's not capable of carrying the current and melted the plug. Might also explain why you have some apparent switch functions that don't do anything.

I would really seek out the OEM light switch and see if it plugs into that big white connector. You might be surprised at what suddenly works like it is supposed to work!
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