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Old 08-22-2016, 09:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLS7201 View Post
Maybe some helpful information. Click on down loads.

HVAC Systems | DENSO Heavy Duty

Richard

Outstanding, both the service manual and the wiring diagram.

Now I wish I had time to use it before I leave.

Both the expansion valve and pressure switch are inside the HVAC case. The wiring for the pressure switch is on the outside of the case but in back of the inside wall inside the coach. I would have to remove the wall again to get to it and no time
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File Type: pdf DENSO_RV_HVAC_Wiring_Diagram-Push_Button.pdf (1.09 MB, 317 views)
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:19 AM   #16
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So, spent a little time looking at the material.

The pressure switch is not what I would have expected.

Is there someone out there take can explain the function of this switch.

I was expecting a simple open shut (on / off) switch .

This one does not appear to be that way.
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Old 08-22-2016, 10:35 AM   #17
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Pin 1 from the pressure switch is connected to the magnetic coil in the electric clutch relay. The diagram doesn't show what the other switch in the pressure switch runs to, but pins 1 and 2 are the ones that control the electric clutch relay. Using a jumper between those 2 pins should energize the electric clutch to allow compressor operation.
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:26 PM   #18
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Pin 1 from the pressure switch is connected to the magnetic coil in the electric clutch relay. The diagram doesn't show what the other switch in the pressure switch runs to, but pins 1 and 2 are the ones that control the electric clutch relay. Using a jumper between those 2 pins should energize the electric clutch to allow compressor operation.

Thank you very much.

I will test it when I return from this race and post the results.

So..I guess that system has R134 in it?
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:50 PM   #19
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YES...........

Richard
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Old 08-26-2016, 04:45 PM   #20
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File this under "things only done on the road" I had same issue 500 miles from home, went by Walmart, one can of R134 and the short fill hose and it was cooling again....as soon as I opened valve on can the clutch kicked on. It sucked the entire can in a few minutes.

Yours may not have a expansion valve but rather an orifice tube at the condenser. Is your condenser & fan mounted under coach behind steer axle? Look there for a psi switch.....

Mackwrench,

Where did you attach the fitting from the R134 can to the system?

My 98 could certainly use a re-charge!
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Old 08-26-2016, 09:02 PM   #21
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At the compressor. The larger of the 2 lines in the suction, low pressure, line. There's a quick connect a/C fitting a few inches from the compressor on that line.
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:55 PM   #22
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At the compressor. The larger of the 2 lines in the suction, low pressure, line. There's a quick connect a/C fitting a few inches from the compressor on that line.

Thanks!!!!
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Old 08-29-2016, 05:48 PM   #23
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On a denso system in my American Revolution coach, I found an in-line fuse behind the dash that was blown. Same symptoms as you are experiencing. I finally found it after getting the wiring diagram from Fleetwood. Getting to it required taking a bunch of dash access panels off. Popped in a new fuse and problem solved!
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Old 08-29-2016, 06:19 PM   #24
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Looking at your picture of the dryer, it looks to me like there's some strange adapters going on there. I wonder if someone has replaced that dryer and eliminated the low pressure switch in the process. Are there two loose wires hanging around anywhere? I could be wrong, but that hookup just looks suspect to me.
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:30 PM   #25
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On a denso system in my American Revolution coach, I found an in-line fuse behind the dash that was blown. Same symptoms as you are experiencing. I finally found it after getting the wiring diagram from Fleetwood. Getting to it required taking a bunch of dash access panels off. Popped in a new fuse and problem solved!
The day I was to leave I got the wiring diagram and in the diagram I also found the fuse you are talking about.

We are back from our trip to GateWay Motorsports park, and I plan on removing the panel again and checking the fuse. If it is good I plan to jump the low pressure switch to see if the compressor runs.

It is four screws to remove the lower panel.



Quote:
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Looking at your picture of the dryer, it looks to me like there's some strange adapters going on there. I wonder if someone has replaced that dryer and eliminated the low pressure switch in the process. Are there two loose wires hanging around anywhere? I could be wrong, but that hookup just looks suspect to me.
This is a Denso unit, turns out the low pressure switch is inside the evaporator, but the wiring is external and can be gotten at by removing the same panel pictured above. I will be checking this tomorrow and will get back to you.
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Old 08-31-2016, 08:45 AM   #26
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Ok, here we go



To remove the lower panel the little wooden plugs on the hand rail are removed and the screws in back of them are removed, The fire extinguisher is removed and the mounting screws that hole the fire extinguisher bracket are removed.



There are three screws alond the bottom rail of the backer and two up the side. Who ever had this apart the last time (Caledonia RV) stripped the heads in the side and the only way to get it out was to break it.



This can be rebuilt, most of the frame is still good.

First thing to do was to check the easy thing, the fuse hiding here.



Yep it is good.

The relay for the low pressure switch is one of the round gary canisters that look like turn signal flasher units.

I jumped the low pressure switch terminals, fired up the A/C and the compressor and the fan over the condenser fired up.

So my conclusion is the system needs a charge, why that is is still up in the air.

It worked when it (MotorHome) went in for service, and did not when it came out.

It is now back there and they will look into the charge. They will evac the system check and recharge.

Boy was it miserable driving to Gateway with out the dash air (even with the roof units going).

I found out the filter in them were clogged, and the rear unit grill holds the filter right up against the A/C unit so the intake is restricted to small 6 X 10 inch inlet. I will space the grill down so that it can suck air in the full opening.

Ran with the grill removed on the way back made a HUGE difference.

See my project thread shortly for that update.
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Old 09-01-2016, 04:10 PM   #27
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So....I have heard from the shop

They say the compressor needs to be replaced.

Supposedly it has some special mount, although it looks like a normal GM compressor.

They called around and it has been discontinued.

Gillig says it is a Evens-Timkin 82-16073

$3,000.00

I'm not going to pay that.

Told them to pull it and see if it cannot be rebuilt.

I will also try salvage yards.

Suggestions on places to send it or courses of action are welcome.
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:13 PM   #28
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So....I have heard from the shop

They say the compressor needs to be replaced.

Supposedly it has some special mount, although it looks like a normal GM compressor.

They called around and it has been discontinued.

Gillig says it is a Evens-Timkin 82-16073

$3,000.00

I'm not going to pay that.

Told them to pull it and see if it cannot be rebuilt.

I will also try salvage yards.

Suggestions on places to send it or courses of action are welcome.
The paid insertions on Google has made it very hard to locate stuff in a search

I have only found two places that look like they might rebuild compressors

R & Y A/C Compressors
15315 NE 21 Ave.
Miami, Fl 33162
(305) 919-8864
https://www.rycompressors.com/

and

Discount Auto AC, Inc.
1115 Enterprise Ct.
Unit D
Holly Hill, Fl 32117
(386) 944-5485
Discount Auto AC | auto ac compressor catalog Discount Auto AC, Inc

I'm hoping this community will come up with some more.
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