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Old 07-27-2020, 12:58 PM   #1
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Adding third air conditioner?

I have been fighting this problem for over 4 years. We have a 2015 38K Expedition that has the rear bathroom. Problem is that with the hot weather like we have been having, the engine heat radiates into the bathroom and bedroom. Does not seem to do so too much while driving because the air flow removes the heat. But when you stop, the heat builds up in the bathroom rapidly. The floor reaches 98-100 degrees by the time I get set up after driving. I have tried opening the engine compartment doors on both sides to let the heat escape. This helps but the problem is still there. I have looked at mounting a fan in the engine compartment to blow cooler air onto the underside of the floor. This too, helps but does not solve the problem. I have looked at installing insulation to the underside of the floor but have decided this to be too risky. The last thing I need is for the insulation to come loose and go into the fan and radiator. Also, I would have to hire a monkey to install the insulation as a monkey is the size of a person needed to get into the space where the insulation is needed.

The only solution I can see working is to add a third air conditioner. I have checked with REV Technical Support and was told that since this coach did not offer an option for a third air conditioner they did not add any additional structural support or wiring for one and that the extra weight on the roof could be a problem.

Coleman offers a unit for non ducted applications and also offers a chill grill that contains all the control and thermostat components and is operated via bluetooth. You only have to run power to it and cut a 14" square hole through the roof where the existing a/c register is now and block off the duct to it.

Of course, this leaves the concern of roof strength.

Has anyone besides me had this heat problem? if so, have you solved it and if so, how?

Has anyone installed a third air conditioner, and if so, has it caused any roof structural problems?
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Old 07-27-2020, 03:47 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Guidedbomb View Post
I have been fighting this problem for over 4 years. We have a 2015 38K Expedition that has the rear bathroom. Problem is that with the hot weather like we have been having, the engine heat radiates into the bathroom and bedroom. Does not seem to do so too much while driving because the air flow removes the heat. But when you stop, the heat builds up in the bathroom rapidly. The floor reaches 98-100 degrees by the time I get set up after driving. I have tried opening the engine compartment doors on both sides to let the heat escape. This helps but the problem is still there. I have looked at mounting a fan in the engine compartment to blow cooler air onto the underside of the floor. This too, helps but does not solve the problem. I have looked at installing insulation to the underside of the floor but have decided this to be too risky. The last thing I need is for the insulation to come loose and go into the fan and radiator. Also, I would have to hire a monkey to install the insulation as a monkey is the size of a person needed to get into the space where the insulation is needed.



The only solution I can see working is to add a third air conditioner. I have checked with REV Technical Support and was told that since this coach did not offer an option for a third air conditioner they did not add any additional structural support or wiring for one and that the extra weight on the roof could be a problem.



Coleman offers a unit for non ducted applications and also offers a chill grill that contains all the control and thermostat components and is operated via bluetooth. You only have to run power to it and cut a 14" square hole through the roof where the existing a/c register is now and block off the duct to it.



Of course, this leaves the concern of roof strength.



Has anyone besides me had this heat problem? if so, have you solved it and if so, how?



Has anyone installed a third air conditioner, and if so, has it caused any roof structural problems?


I started running genny with both of my airs running which made all the difference when I got to campground with motor heat.
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Old 07-27-2020, 04:12 PM   #3
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Give thought to small mini split, been a number of blogs doing it
No new hole in roof to leak , can run refrig lines to best Bay place for outside unit
Just another option?
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Old 07-27-2020, 04:18 PM   #4
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I started running genny with both of my airs running which made all the difference when I got to campground with motor heat.


I have tried running generator and both a/c units but the heat overpowers them when stop to camp.
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Old 07-28-2020, 01:10 PM   #5
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Structural is one concern but does the electrical system from the genny to the panel have the capacity to run three AC units??

-Kevin
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Old 07-28-2020, 07:11 PM   #6
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Structural is one concern but does the electrical system from the genny to the panel have the capacity to run three AC units??



-Kevin


Current a/cs pull about 10 amps each when running. Of course start up is a spike of around 16 amps but for a short time. Gen will put out 50 amps. Per leg. Current a/cs are run off separate legs. Dont believe power to be a problem. Roof loading is my concern.
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Old 07-28-2020, 07:19 PM   #7
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Do you have ladder access to your roof?. If so have you gotten on top of your coach and walked around. How heavy are you, probably twice as heavy as an AC unit.

You might have to add some extra blocking when you cut a hole but my guess is that the AC weight wouldn't be a problem.

You will have to be creative to get power to the AC unit. Do you have a block engine heater? May be able to tap that line to get power there, it will have it's own breaker in the panel and as an added benefit you might have a switch on the dash that controls that circuit, would have to check amperage as it would probably use a 12 volt relay to accomplish this. You could turn it off and on as needed from the drivers seat.




I carried 2 sea kayaks on the top of my Class C without a problem, total weight was ~130lbs (probably more) plus my weight (north of 175) when I was fastening them down to the roof. Never even though about weight.
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Old 07-28-2020, 07:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
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I have tried running generator and both a/c units but the heat overpowers them when stop to camp.
We had the same issue withour coach.. ('02 Foretravel with the M-11 500hp).
What i did was yard out that 35gal drum of a muffler and replaced with a resonator and wrapped everything with exhaust manifold heat wrap.. Mitigated the issue of excess heat.
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Old 07-28-2020, 09:52 PM   #9
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Agree with Saddlesore, removed my 75 lb heatsink muffler and put in a resonator. Big difference in bedroom temps after stopping for the night. Engine room insulation makes a difference too.
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Old 07-29-2020, 11:28 AM   #10
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When I began to have that problem (after several years) I found that the insulation under the floor access hatch had come loose, allowing a lot of extra heat to radiate upward. I reattached it and also installed a piece of aluminum sheet there to act as a reflector and heat intrusion dropped dramatically.


An anecdote: While at a campground in Maine, 3 Prevost coaches pulled in near us and all immediately opened their rear engine hatches. Later I learned it was a family camping trip (must be nice!) and Dad had taught his sons to do that to help engine heat escape after a day of travel. They had plenty of a/c capacity, but it made more sense to vent the heat than to try to overcome it with cooling.
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