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Old 03-06-2017, 08:11 AM   #1
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Attwood Hot Water Heater Noise

Hi All, We just unwinterized our new to us 2015 40E, which we purchased over the winter.First, I found that I have no heating on A/C on the Attwood hot water heater, but it heats great on gas. I checked the obvious coach circuit breaker and it was not tripped.On top of that, when you run hot water from the faucets or shower, it make a high pitched whistle noise.Not sure if the two issue are related.I would like to go back to the Camping World dealer and see if they will make it right, since we were unable to test the water system in the dead of winter during the purchase process.Any suggestions on a fix, or opinion on going back to the dealer on this?Thx, Jeff
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Old 03-06-2017, 12:04 PM   #2
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If your water heater has an electric heating element, it might have a second switch to prevent accidental turn on when tank is empty. check in the WH compartment and look for a switch. Also the regular WH switch only turns on the LP function, the 120v electric switch is often located somewhere else.

On the sound issue, I don't know if a trip to CW is necessary, you might just try running water to help flush all air out of the system. Also check that all valves are fully on, not left only partially on, especially in the WH winterizing valves. You might also unscrew aerators on faucets and clean them, they can get blocked by deposits flushed out of winterized (dry) plumbing lines.

How did you first fill the WH tank? A small pocket of air is needed in the top of the tank to allow for expansion when heating. If you turn off water pump/city water supply and open the pressure relief valve on the top front of the tank (when cool) and allow water to dribble out and air to go in, then close the valve, you'll have a proper air pocket again.
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Old 03-08-2017, 04:25 PM   #3
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I have a 15 40E. Did the red fault light come on? If so you need rv service.
Or go outside with all power OFF and disconnect and reconnect every electrical connection you can find. Or you've burned out you electrical heating element when there was no water in tank with 120v system was on. PIA to get to element in back.
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Old 03-09-2017, 12:02 AM   #4
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Any bypass valves? If so are they properly set for proper operation. As other poster above stated NB some heaters have a small black on/off switch behind the HWH cover. Make sure it's on. Note that if a HWH electric element is turned on w/o any water in the tank it only takes minutes for the element to burn out.
If you can get to the element w/o pulling the heater you can check with a voltmeter to see if it's getting power to the element. If so and the water is not hot it's cooked ( element).
Another method to check the AC side is a clamp on amp meter. I clamp the line under the WH circuit breaker. You won't see any draw if the element is burned out. Sometimes you can hear the element heating the water, an ever so slight hiss.
Keep us all posted on your progress.
Congrats on you new rig.
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Old 03-09-2017, 12:31 AM   #5
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You have a 2015 year Atwood.....no hidden switches
Both Gas & Electric On/Off switches should be on same panel with a RED Fault light
RED Fault Light:
1) Propane fails to light/prove lit ---3 attempts then fault light
2) Anytime ECO opens (high temp t-stat---180*F) when on Gas OR Electric (usually means T-stat failed to open at 140*F and control heating cycles)
ECO will auto reset when water temp drops below 150*F
FAULT LIGHT Reset....turn on/off switch OFF--wait 30 seconds turn back ON (if issue has been resolved)

(Suburban is the brand that uses a on/off switch in outside compartment for electric)


You stated:
Gas works OK...........that means all common/shared items work (thermal fuse, t-stat, ECO, 12V DC power)
Electric doesn't work.....most likely element is burnt out ----turned on with no water in tank is common cause
Tripped 120V AC circuit breaker...locate/ID circuit breaker. Turn it OFF then back on to insure it isn't tripped.
IF CB not tripped then with Electric switch ON check that YELLOW wire (bottom connector...circuit board---outside compartment) has 12V DC on it.
It goes to a relay that triggers the 120V AC to element (relay inside cover over element ---inside RV on backside of WH Tank)
If YELLOW wire has 12V DC then:
With Electric switch OFF check continuity between BLACK and WHITE wire terminals on element. No continuity---bad element
Check continuity between WHITE wire terminal and element flange...IF you have continuity there then element is shorted
1 1/2" thin wall socket to unscrew. 1400W element

As for the NOISE.
Most likely the cheap check valve used in HOT out (top fitting on tank.....backside)
Plastic plunger/spring/o-ring assembly that will chatter when scale/crud clogs it ...then they usually fail
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