Bounder: Atwood Levelegs Jack Won't Lower

[mchero]

Originally Posted by NLOVNIT

Posting back with new info. The gears on top of the motor are striped. Waiting on new motor w/gears to come in.

Lori-

After replacing two motor/clutch assemblies as well as the gears one the left rear AND I also had the rear jack "jackscrew plates tack welded. Now the jacks are currently 100% and MUCH safer!

Levelegs are a pain but if treated right "should" work for a couple more years (fingers Crossed) I really miss my hydraulic HWH jacks I had on my 93 Pace Arrow Diesel Pusher.

RM

[NLOVNIT]

I do think we've been lucky. I've read of others who've had multiple issues, some having to fully replace, with the Atwood system. This is our 1st major issue on a 10 yo system.

Lori-

[mchero]

Originally Posted by NLOVNIT

I do think we've been lucky. I've read of others who've had multiple issues, some having to fully replace, with the Atwood system. This is our 1st major issue on a 10 yo system.

Lori-

9 year old coach on this end with Levelegs. Already rebuilt/welded the rear jacks. Just yesterday the Rt. front just popped when I last leveled. Looks like it's time to work on the forward jacks!

RM

[EasyPace]

I had to weld both front jacks because the shear pins kept breaking. Fingers are crossed for a few more years out of them. They still act up every now and then with the controller needing to be reset to get them working again.

[firedoc]

Excuse my stupidity but how did welding help the shear pins from breaking.

[EasyPace]

The shear pins would snap upon leg retraction, so after replacing the shear pins twice, my RV tech said that the only recourse was to weld the shaft to the motor. This could damage the motor gears if something should go wrong but the extra strength of the weld seems to allow the controller to receive the extra electrical load and shut down the jack. My jacks are the old version that do not have an auto shutoff and rely on the controller to sense the extra load and shut down the retraction. It may be just a bandaid until the day comes that they need to be replaced with the newer version, but everyday that I save the $1200 per Jack is a good day.

[firedoc]

Ok, thank you. Now another stupid question, how do you determine if you have the older or newer version?

[mchero]

Originally Posted by firedoc

Ok, thank you. Now another stupid question, how do you determine if you have the older or newer version?

The first revision the controller monitored the load on each motor. The 2nd revision Atwood added encoders to the motor/clutch assembly. So, if you see just a pair of wires to the motors you have the early version. If you see a 2nd pair of wires attached to the motor/clutch assembly then you have the 2nd revision jacks.

I have the 1st revision. When I replaced the motor/clutch assemblies on the rear jacks (10K) they had the encoders but I did not use them.

Welding the gears sounds a tad over the top to me! I have NEVER had any shear pins fail.

I just tore down & reassembled my right front jack (7.5K). While leveling I thought I herd a pop when the red led started flashing for the right front jack. I thought for sure something went south on the jack! All looked good so I greased her up & she's 100%.

[firedoc]

Originally Posted by mchero

The first revision the controller monitored the load on each motor. The 2nd revision Atwood added encoders to the motor/clutch assembly. So, if you see just a pair of wires to the motors you have the early version. If you see a 2nd pair of wires attached to the motor/clutch assembly then you have the 2nd revision jacks.



I have the 1st revision. When I replaced the motor/clutch assemblies on the rear jacks (10K) they had the encoders but I did not use them.



Welding the gears sounds a tad over the top to me! I have NEVER had any shear pins fail.



I just tore down & reassembled my right front jack (7.5K). While leveling I thought I herd a pop when the red led started flashing for the right front jack. I thought for sure something went south on the jack! All looked good so I greased her up & she's 100%.

Ok so you can replace a first revision jack, which I have, with a second revision- just do not use the encoders?

[DGBPokes]

I've been having trouble with the right front retracting. Gathering data to replace: Newmar new $950. Internet website used California$500, no warranty. Colaw Salvage Carthage MO. $ 350 six month warranty

'07 Motorhome

[EasyPace]

The way I understand it, you can replace the older version with the newer version of the jacks. The major difference is that the new version has the ability to sense when the jack is fully retracted without the help of the controller. In other words the jack itself knows when to stop, instead of the controller trying to sense the motor overload when the jack reaches the top. It should be a much more reliable system.

[DGBPokes]

Have posted a couple of times about trouble retracting my right front Leveleg. I am happy to report, that after contacting Atwood and speaking to a tech, who recommends I "reboot" the controller and each leg. While over a pit I had the 6 wire cable and the 12 volt power supply cables disconnected for a few minutes.

It worked! The entire systems seems to work better, it certainly sounds different, but it worked.

With that said, I have a question: the street in front of the S&B is sloped, does this impact the functionality and reliability of the system? Front to back slope down 1.8 degrees..... Right down to left .7 degrees.

[mchero]

Originally Posted by DGBPokes

Have posted a couple of times about trouble retracting my right front Leveleg. I am happy to report, that after contacting Atwood and speaking to a tech, who recommends I "reboot" the controller and each leg. While over a pit I had the 6 wire cable and the 12 volt power supply cables disconnected for a few minutes.

It worked! The entire systems seems to work better, it certainly sounds different, but it worked.

With that said, I have a question: the street in front of the S&B is sloped, does this impact the functionality and reliability of the system? Front to back slope down 1.8 degrees..... Right down to left .7 degrees.

Be REAL CAREFUL with those jacks! I'll level the coach using blocks then I'll level using the jacks. The jacks will start giving you problems if you overwork them! I don't suggest you use them to lift the rig off the ground. e.g. tire change.

I really miss my HWH hydraulic jacks but I have learned to deal with the Levelegs. As stated earlier, I'm going to thoroughly document the work I have done on those jacks & post detailed PICS on my web site.

[EasyPace]

Well, after sitting idle for a month, I fired up my 2005 Pace Arrow and moved it to it's de-winterizing location. Turned on the levelleg controller and tried to auto extend the jacks. The alarm sounded and the red and green LEDs started flashing indicating a failure of the from left jack. I tried the reset procedure several times, and no change. What a way to start the season!

I disconnected the wire to the from jack motor, spayed a little WD-40 on the connector gave everything a good shake, and reattached the motor. Fired up the motorhome and still no change. Another couple of reset attempts, retract all. No change.

I decided to try a step that I read somewhere: Disconnect the wire to the offending jack motor. Re-start the motorhome and do a reset by pressing the offending pair of facts and the retract button simultaneously, followed by a retract all. Shut down the motorhome. re-connect the offending jack motor and turn the screw on the bottom of the motor several times. This turns the motor's armature.
Restart the motorhome, turn on the jacks and perform a retract All.
IT WORKED! All of the jacks retracted, I then hit the Auto button and off it went and levelled the motorhome perfectly.
I can only conclude that there is a dead spot, or maybe dirty spot on the motor, and spinning the screw moved it off of the dead spot.
Anyway, one more troubleshooting process to put in your back pocket in case you are in the same situation some time.