Community Forums

pdestefano · 06-26-2016, 12:53 PM

2007 Bounder: Left headlights on and killed main battery. Tried to use Aux Start and it did nothing. Looking for Aux Switch relay and fuse assuming one or the other is bad. Most forums talk of a Battery Control Box but I do not see anything of the sort under the hood. I do have a Power Distribution Box but just a bunch of fuses. Also, manual has fuse locations but none are identified as Aux Start.
Can anyone tell me where the Aux Start Relay and Fuse is located on a 2007 Bounder on a 2006 Ford Chassis?

**CLIFFTALL** · 06-26-2016, 12:56 PM

My 08 35E had it in the BCC ( battery control center ).
Here's a schematic of it.

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**CLIFFTALL** · 06-26-2016, 12:57 PM

pdestefano · 06-27-2016, 07:28 AM

Thanks Cliff. In my 2007 Bounder, the BCC is NOT in the engine compartment under the hood. Do you know where it might be?

Paul

**CLIFFTALL** · 06-27-2016, 07:54 AM

Mine was in the first PS compartment above the propane tank. If yours isn't there , call FW 800-322-8216.

Crossingover · 06-28-2016, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdestefano

Thanks Cliff. In my 2007 Bounder, the BCC is NOT in the engine compartment under the hood. Do you know where it might be?

Paul

On mine, the BCC is behind the basement door next to the entry door. I have to remove screws on a panel cover to access the BCC.

Old Bounder · 06-28-2016, 04:23 PM

In Clifftall's post #2, the aux start relay/solenoid is the silver can in the upper left corner of his photo of the BCC board. It is actually located behind the board. It will be in the same location in your Bounder.

I assume you know that you must hold the aux start switch depressed while trying to start the vehicle. When the switch is used with a known DEAD chassis battery, it should be held depressed for several minutes before even attempting to start the vehicle.

When you locate the BCC, the aux start fuse is F-17. If you need the drawings and trouble shooting procedures, I have those also. Just ask.

pdestefano · 07-01-2016, 07:07 AM

Thank you so much for replies. Didn't think to hold switch for several minutes with dead battery. I will have someone click switch and see if I hear the solenoid before replacing it. Couldn't imagine that chassis battery completely died in three hours with headlights on and would NOT jumpstart . Wonder if solenoid automatically took chassis battery off circuit so jumpstart couldn't work. Fortunately the generator charged it back up in a hour.

pdestefano · 07-01-2016, 07:15 AM

Or maybe battery was so dead the load was too high for jumping.

Old Bounder · 07-01-2016, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdestefano

Or maybe battery was so dead the load was too high for jumping.

That is certainly a possibility.

pdestefano · 07-02-2016, 07:16 PM

checked all fuses and solenoid clicks as it should when aux start pressed. Voltage on dash voltmeter still different between chassis and aux battery indicating they are not in parallel. Anybody have any idea why this would be?

Old Bounder · 07-03-2016, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdestefano

checked all fuses and solenoid clicks as it should when aux start pressed. Voltage on dash voltmeter still different between chassis and aux battery indicating they are not in parallel. Anybody have any idea why this would be?

I assume your were holding the switch depressed while measuring for a difference in battery voltage. Is this correct? Batteries will disconnect from each other as soon as you release the switch.

If solenoid "clicks", but does not connect the batteries, then the solenoid is defective. If you decide to replace it, you must get a 12V solenoid that is rated for "continuous duty". A simple FORD type starter relay/solenoid will not last long in that application.

The new solenoid should have a contact rating of at least 150 amps.

superk · 07-03-2016, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Bounder

If solenoid "clicks", but does not connect the batteries, then the solenoid is defective. If you decide to replace it, you must get a 12V solenoid that is rated for "continuous duty".

The new solenoid should have a contact rating of at least 150 amps.

When replacing, it looks as if the circuit board would have to be removed, is this accurate? That would require the complete de-energization of the coach IIRC.

Where do you recommend to get a new solenoid? Amazon?

Old Bounder · 07-03-2016, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by superk

When replacing, it looks as if the circuit board would have to be removed, is this accurate? That would require the complete de-energization of the coach IIRC.

Where do you recommend to get a new solenoid? Amazon?

It does require the removal of several connectors and wires from the board, but that's not a real problem. Just take a few photos before you start, and tag the single wires removed.

The board can be moved out of the way enough to easily effect the removal and replacement of the isolator solenoid.

I would lift the ground cable off both sets of batteries, as you will be working with connections to both house and chassis batteries.

I've used this solenoid on several occasions, it (or a comparable solenoid) is available at most any auto parts store.