American Coach: Basement lights switch getting hot pops fuse

[Gillic01]

2010 Fleetwood Revolution.
Have an issue with the “luggage” light switch just inside the door wasn’t working took it out and the hot wire is black from being hot. I bought a 4 pin lighted switch as The existing are obsolete. Wires like I thought should be popped fuse. If I leave off the black/red wire lights will work but that switch starts smelling it’s getting so hot. Ideas?

[Bobby Dowdle]

Can you post pictures of both the original and the new fuse. Have you verified how the switch works with a meter. If you install the old switch, does everything still function? Something is causing the wire to get hot. Have to tried isolating the lights in the bay to see if one has a bad bulb or assembly?

[wolfgolden]

What is the Amp rating for the new switch?

Do you have a meter that reads amps to measure the current draw on that line?

[Gillic01]

So maybe it was the wrong switch to start with as it did t work and fuse blown. They had a 4 prong switch with hot then wire to lights with a pigtail across to 2nd column and then the ground so it was putting power to ground popping fuse. I can hookup a switch that is 3 print lighted and works or 2 prong without led and ground lights works fine. Think the ground is for the Led in switch. Those replacements are discontinued at rev. So maybe do without the lighted switch

[Gary RVRoamer]

On my 2004 American Tradition Fleetwood had loaded the basement light circuit to its max. 6 x 1.5A incandescent bulbs powered through a 10A fuse, so it ran at max rated load. If I left all the basement lights on for more than about 20-25 minutes the fuse blew. The pin in the Molex connector that carried that circuit was burnt from repeated max load pops. My solution, was to replace the bulbs with Leds to bring the amperage down, but I had to put a new pin in the Molex as well.