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Old 10-12-2021, 06:14 PM   #1
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Batteries not charging from shore power

Hi,

Iím plugged to shore power but canít get my batteries recharged. I already check the 2 fuses, 120AC and 13.0v output so my inteli power 9000 charger converter seems to be working.

On the manual they said I should get 13.6 (.3 +-) but I donít think that a 0.3v less canít stop the converter to recharge the batteries.

Also I already reset the two 30amp breaker on the battery control center.

The fridge itís working on AC, Iíve 120v on all outlets and every seems to be working good. Just canít get my batteries topped from shore power.
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Old 10-12-2021, 06:26 PM   #2
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Starting from the battery there is a circuit breaker and then a disconnect solenoid, controlled by the battery disconnect switch, and then the converter/,charger/ fuse panel.

Find the circuit breaker near the battery and check it.

Then find the Battery Disconnect and check that.
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Old 10-13-2021, 01:19 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juano View Post
Hi,

Iím plugged to shore power but canít get my batteries recharged. I already check the 2 fuses, 120AC and 13.0v output so my inteli power 9000 charger converter seems to be working.

On the manual they said I should get 13.6 (.3 +-) but I donít think that a 0.3v less canít stop the converter to recharge the batteries.

Also I already reset the two 30amp breaker on the battery control center.

The fridge itís working on AC, Iíve 120v on all outlets and every seems to be working good. Just canít get my batteries topped from shore power.
What RV do you have?
What battery voltages are you seeing with:
1. Shore power not connected
2. Shore power connected
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Old 10-13-2021, 01:50 PM   #4
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Find the circuit breaker near the battery and check it.
First thanks for your help!

Second, I found two 30amp breakers with a reset button on the side, I already pressed that button and have continuity with my multimeter if I touch each nut on the both breakers, so they must be working.

Quote:
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Then find the Battery Disconnect and check that.
On the disconnect battery switch panel inside de coach if I press OFF/ON on both switches I only hear the click on the Coach battery disconnect switch and testing with my multimeter I can see that polarity changes when I press that button touching the small two front lugs. On the side big lugs I’ve conductivity no matter if switch it’s ON or OFF.

On the Chassis battery disconnect switch if I touch both front small lugs with the multimeter I don’t get any signal.
If I do a resistance test on the big side nuts I’ve continuity no matter if switch it’s ON/OFF.

Hope to be clear and sorry about my lack of electricity skills. I’m trying to learn something everyday but sometimes it’s confusing.
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Old 10-14-2021, 06:03 AM   #5
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Are your batteries dead dead?
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Old 10-14-2021, 07:03 AM   #6
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Not the best to check continuity with power on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Juano View Post
First thanks for your help!

Second, I found two 30amp breakers with a reset button on the side, I already pressed that button and have continuity with my multimeter if I touch each nut on the both breakers, so they must be working.



On the disconnect battery switch panel inside de coach if I press OFF/ON on both switches I only hear the click on the Coach battery disconnect switch and testing with my multimeter I can see that polarity changes when I press that button touching the small two front lugs. On the side big lugs Iíve conductivity no matter if switch itís ON or OFF.

On the Chassis battery disconnect switch if I touch both front small lugs with the multimeter I donít get any signal.
If I do a resistance test on the big side nuts Iíve continuity no matter if switch itís ON/OFF.

Hope to be clear and sorry about my lack of electricity skills. Iím trying to learn something everyday but sometimes itís confusing.

Its best to either remove a battery cable and use multimeter in ohm's mode (continuity) or use multimeter in voltage mode to check breaker with battery connected. To check breaker with volt meter (black lead to frame ground) then (red lead) you should read very close to the same voltage on each lead of the breaker.

Checking the Solenoid you need to check with power on, use multimeter in voltage mode. Put leads one on each side of solenoid large nuts , if its very close to zero or a few hundredths of a volt switch is closed. If you read a higher voltage switch is open. You can also check by (black lead) on ground and (red lead) to each side of solenoid large nuts. If you read the same voltage on both sides switch is closed if you read a few volts different switch is open.
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Old 10-14-2021, 01:24 PM   #7
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Are your batteries dead dead?

Thatís what Iím trying to ask and canít find a reply. Checking on Interstate website they say a 100% charged 6v battery should read 6.42v and Iím getting 5.7v with my multimeter.

Tried to charge them with a bug battery charger from Napa and it says the battery itís full. Went back to Napa they put a device that says if the battery itís good or not and they said it was good, told them about my reading of 5.7v with a huge difference between was Interstate manual and they told me that batteries are good.

Just totally lost on how to keep troubleshooting as I donít know if my batteries are good or failed.
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Old 10-14-2021, 01:37 PM   #8
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At 5.7v (11.4v across both) your batterys are essentially dead. Why they won't charge, I have no idea. Have you checked the water levels in each cell? I might try hooking up a 12v charger across both batteries (hooked in series) and see if they will charge.
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Old 10-14-2021, 01:37 PM   #9
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Assume the two 6 VDC batteries are hooked up in SERIES.


Please confirm.


What is voltage when checking from negative terminal that connects to chassis ground to positive terminal going to the house distribution panel/converter?
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Old 10-14-2021, 01:51 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by jimjenturner View Post
Its best to either remove a battery cable and use multimeter in ohm's mode (continuity) or use multimeter in voltage mode to check breaker with battery connected. To check breaker with volt meter (black lead to frame ground) then (red lead) you should read very close to the same voltage on each lead of the breaker.
Breakers are good to go, reading 12.5v on all sides.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjenturner View Post
Checking the Solenoid you need to check with power on, use multimeter in voltage mode. Put leads one on each side of solenoid large nuts , if its very close to zero or a few hundredths of a volt switch is closed. If you read a higher voltage switch is open. You can also check by (black lead) on ground and (red lead) to each side of solenoid large nuts. If you read the same voltage on both sides switch is closed if you read a few volts different switch is open.
Ignition relay (solenoid #1):

With engine off I got 0v on both chassis disconnect switch positions.

With engine on I got 0v on both switch position as well.


Automatic charging and aux start relay (solenoid #2):

With engine off I read 6.5v on ON position and 0v on OFF on coach disconnect switch.

With engine on I read 0.1v when I press ON or OFF on the disconnect coach switch.



Testing with black wire on ground and red on the big nuts I got 13.50v on all solenoids sides when engine is running and 12.5v when engine is off, no matter if the disconnect switches are ON or OFF.
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Old 10-14-2021, 01:56 PM   #11
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At 5.7v (11.4v across both) your batterys are essentially dead. Why they won't charge, I have no idea. Have you checked the water levels in each cell? I might try hooking up a 12v charger across both batteries (hooked in series) and see if they will charge.

Already checked levels and tried a big 6v/12v Napa battery charger and it doesnít charge it as it thinks they are full. Tried to charge them on series, individually when plugged in series and individually isolated from the system.
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Old 10-14-2021, 01:58 PM   #12
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Assume the two 6 VDC batteries are hooked up in SERIES.


Please confirm.


What is voltage when checking from negative terminal that connects to chassis ground to positive terminal going to the house distribution panel/converter?
Yes, they are connected in series and reading 11.2v
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Old 10-14-2021, 02:06 PM   #13
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Yes, they are connected in series and reading 11.2v

If this is a smart converter, it may not even attempt to charge batteries that deeply discharged.


Try bringing them up to around 12 VDC with a "stupid charger" or jump from your toad battery.
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Old 10-14-2021, 08:27 PM   #14
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I've got the same thing going on with a 1999 Fleetwood Southwind.
I'd replaced the Coach<>Chassis relay, it was not contacting when the dash button was pushed. Since then, it's been on shore power and the Chassis battery has been slowly declining (that's a separate issue) even though the Coach battery is at 13.5 V Looking at the BCC manual, it requires 13.6V on Coach to charge the Chassis or while running then engine, it requires the Chassis to be 13.6 or greater. That does happen, I get 14.1 off the Alternator.
The Coach batteries are OK, they drop to 12.6 off Shore and hold there for quite a while with lighting all on and the vent fan on.
I've tried this with the Chassis Isolation On and Off, same behavior.

So somehow I've got to either adjust the Coach charger to put out 13.7V or adjust the BCC to allow 13.4V to close that relay.
Anyone had luck with either of those ?

I've got one of these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YXXBJ6W) in each of the front 12V accessory sockets (aka Cig Lighter) Really handy to see live voltage readings to the 0.1V
* Do not leave it plugged in when off Shore or Alternator, it will drag a battery down over days
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